2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Another idle thread.

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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 07:59 PM
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1980's 7's Avatar
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From: Birmingham, AL
Another idle thread.

Ok, so I've got an 88 vert that idles really low. It'll do one of two different things, it'll either idle around 400-500 and bounce or it'll rev up to 1200 and sit there for a few minutes and then drop down and bounce.

I assumed it was probably a vacuum leak, but I can't seem to find it. But the weird part is that it doesn't do it from a cold start. If I start the car after letting it sit for a few hours it'll start up and idle perfectly around 800rpm. It'll be fine until it warms up and then the problems start.

I'm stumped. Thanks for the help.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 09:05 PM
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Im new to FC's....I have the SAME EXACT problem!!! someone help us out!!..
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 10:37 PM
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stupid computer, sorry for the double post
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 10:38 PM
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First thing, make sure your tps reads 1k ohms at idle, and 4k-6k ohms at WOT.
Could aslo be a vaccum leak like you said. Could also be a dirty throttle body. It could be a number of different things, a little more input from more experience rotary nuts will help this guy
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 10:43 PM
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Im waiting on the "use the search button " line........
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 01:00 AM
  #6  
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From: Birmingham, AL
Believe me I've searched. I registered for the board in Sept. but haven't posted till now. Anyway, my problem just seems kinda specific. The idle is great for a few minutes (Basically until it reaches operating temp) then it gets bad. And it's not ever really all that bad. It's just really low, rough, and rich.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 01:10 AM
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From: Shreveport, LA
Jesus, you guys have more problems N/A than I do Supercharged Idle Wise! LOL!

Yeah, like everyone's said, check TPS, make sure there are no vacuum leaks (big * here), and while it's surging spray carb cleaner around the engine bay (make sure to have a hose ready to spray it off the engine) to check for leaks vacuum wise.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 02:58 AM
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From: Winnipeg
well i have a similar problem with my 88 S4 N/A. it will run fine until she warms up then she will die for not reason and not start. it will start after a few hours of sitting i also have the fuel pump switch so i know im not flooding it.

this a rebuilt motor i just bought and put in:
plates were lapped, rotor housings were lapped and chrome was touched up to ensure good flat sealing surface.

2mm 2 piece Mazda Apex seals and springs
2mm Mazda corner seals and springs
Viton Oil control inserts and dowel pin O rings
Mazda inner and outer water seals

Mild primary porting, big secondary ports and massive auxilary ports

im new to working on rotaries so i brought it to an expert turns out i have a huge leak in my intake gasket he said i should replace the old 6 ports, and i might need a new starter.. is this true? and suggestions or thoughts?

ive dumped a good load of cash trying to get the thing running and such im just getin really tired of small **** coming up and i want to get the thing drivable.

Last edited by EnviousRX8; Jan 3, 2006 at 03:02 AM.
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Old Jan 3, 2006 | 06:59 PM
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Before you go spending a bunch of money, (HA, we all know how easy that is on our cars) if you guys have access to a properly working throttle body, try swapping that in for the one you have on now and see if it cures the problem. I remember reading about someone who had an identical problem and what happened was the throttle body was randomly sucking in unwanted air through the back. He strapped on a used one and everything was dandy. It's worth a shot.
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