Another High Idle Thread (Searched)
06-13-10, 05:17 PM
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Another High Idle Thread (Searched)
Car Starts perfectly after three years of sitting. 
Engine has great compression and no vacuum leaks. I still have all of the emissions equipment. 88TII
Unfortunately, the car has a perfect steady idle at 2000 rpm.
i tried to adjust the idle like the fsm says. the adjuster screw wont lower the idle but it will increase it. i unplugged the BAC and the idle doesn't budge either. is it stuck in idle mode? the air bypass solenoid and the BAC are about 2.0 ohms higher than the fsm says. im guessing i should replace them.
also does anyone have a picture of how the thermowax vacuum lines are routed? i want to make sure my check valve and lines are right. the fsm doesent show routing on the TB.
Thanks Guys, Im so close!
Engine has great compression and no vacuum leaks. I still have all of the emissions equipment. 88TIIUnfortunately, the car has a perfect steady idle at 2000 rpm.
i tried to adjust the idle like the fsm says. the adjuster screw wont lower the idle but it will increase it. i unplugged the BAC and the idle doesn't budge either. is it stuck in idle mode? the air bypass solenoid and the BAC are about 2.0 ohms higher than the fsm says. im guessing i should replace them.
also does anyone have a picture of how the thermowax vacuum lines are routed? i want to make sure my check valve and lines are right. the fsm doesent show routing on the TB.
Thanks Guys, Im so close!
06-13-10, 05:46 PM
#2
Read from post #79 on regarding the fast idle cam/thermowax unit. This could be one of the culprits. That, and the primary throttle plate opened too much.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...dle+cam&page=4
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...dle+cam&page=4
06-15-10, 01:39 AM
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I was able to picked up a BAC and air bypass solenoid valve that both read in the middle of the specified ohms. (Thanks Fong!)
I picked up 1.5" PVC piping and made my intercooler delete. I also made a checker lamp to check codes (none showing at the moment) and adjust my TPS (will double check with volt meter).
Im going to start tomorrow by checking the throttle plate like you said and make sure its adjusted according to the FSM. Then i will adjust my TPS and check the fast idle cam/thermowax.
I picked up 1.5" PVC piping and made my intercooler delete. I also made a checker lamp to check codes (none showing at the moment) and adjust my TPS (will double check with volt meter).
Im going to start tomorrow by checking the throttle plate like you said and make sure its adjusted according to the FSM. Then i will adjust my TPS and check the fast idle cam/thermowax.
Last edited by GOT-RTRY; 06-15-10 at 02:08 AM.
06-15-10, 02:08 PM
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I pulled the UIM/TB slightly off to remove the cover on the TB.
I adjusted the TB stop screw out till there was a gap and then back in till it hit the lever.
I feel stupid. which is the primary throttle valve? the bottom two, right?
you cant see it in the video but the bottom two are cracked slightly like in the fsm. I'm confused because the top one opens first.
<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid243.photobucket.com/albums/ff125/seanbledsoe522/MVI_0038.mp4">
I adjusted the TB stop screw out till there was a gap and then back in till it hit the lever.
I feel stupid. which is the primary throttle valve? the bottom two, right?
you cant see it in the video but the bottom two are cracked slightly like in the fsm. I'm confused because the top one opens first.
<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid243.photobucket.com/albums/ff125/seanbledsoe522/MVI_0038.mp4">
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