hey guys, i have a 90 GXL, im having trouble setting my tps (i think its shot) ive done theFSM two light procedure and no matter where the adjusting screwon the tps is i can only get one light or none. when i backprobe the red/green wire and read voltage, i set it to .95v, blip the throttle then the multimeter says 1.3vand slowly settles down to~1.1v, repeat like 10 times and they are all the same,i could have the decel dashpot in to far. . . maybe? but the two light test was doing that while the dashpot was out. also while accelerating in 2nd gear past 3k rpm and imediatly depress the clutch the rpms will climb ~500rpm before dropping?
the potentiometers are smooth running and ohm out correct according to FSM
in 7 owners opinions should i dropp 200+ for a new tps or could the problem be somewhere else?
please help.

 

Some folks will start the car then disconnect the tps and then see if there's any change in the way the car operates.

 

Even with the Official tool from Mazda, I had a hard time adjusting the TPS on my S5 NA properly.

My solution was to buy a new TPS, after that,it took me 5 minutes to adjust it and the idle problem is totally gone.

There are used TPS that might work just as well, but I would rather save the time/headache so I bought a new Turbo one, took it out and fit it on the NA bracket.

 

ya i got one off ebay for ~45$, it tested fine, but obviosly doesnt work fine.
anyone know where to find a new one for less than $150?

 

not possible. a new Turbo one selling for around 300 bux retail.

I can probably get u one but its gonna be around 280-290.

So ...

Just for your reference, N380-18-911 is the part number for the new Turbo TPS

a new NA TPS , N350-18-911B, retails at 430 something bux. the only difference between Turbo and NA is the bracket and the connector color, Turbo is White, NA is black.

I bought the Turbo one and swap the connector, 5 minutes job, saved over 100 something.

 

When the TPS was set using the two LED light method..........was the engine running or not? Was the engine fully warmed up or Not?

 

I'm assuming that when setting/testing the TPS your car was up to operating temp. Also that the test connector was grounded.

What is your car idling at (if over 900 rpm, then adjust it down)?

Have you checked the unplugged TPS ohms (sweeping from idle to wot, looking for strange jumps)?

Does pushing the clutch in any other time effect the rpms (ex: idle in/or out of gear, when changing to other gears 1-2 3-4 4-5)?

Why did you originally change the TPS, what were the symptoms/mods that lead to that?

 

whenever adjusting, the cars was warm shut off with the key "on" and the initial set connector grounded. i read in different post you can leave it running, so this morning the 1v method ileft it running.
when i got the car theTB was almost "rusty" and the screws on the b. valves were totally stripped so i replaced it with a good clean one.

just thought if only one light or none would illuminate during the 2 light adfjustment, part of the ecu might be bad, right?

 

one light supposed to be on, the other stays off.

Official Mazda tool will have Green and a Red Bulb, Green supposed to stay on. Not the Red.

I hate to say it but dont forget this car is like 15-20 years old. so its normal for it to start falling apart here and there.

 

im finding a new tps for a s5 turboII is cheaper than a n/a
the potetiometers and connectors are the same, no, so i could remove them from there stand thingy and put them on the n/a one i have?

 

Lemme quote myself again.

 

The lights (on the TPS check connector) represent the ECU sending the Relief and or Switching solenoids a GROUND SIGNAL.

A NORMAL car at idle will have the RELIEF solenoid energized (ECU puts a gnd on that solenoid) and the SWITCHING solenoid de-energized.

That's is why the two LED lights come on. If the ECU sees the TPS outputting one volt dc...........it will send a gnd signal to the RELIEF solenoid. That gnd output by the ECU is also spliced into the TPS CHECK CONNECTOR.

IF the ECU NEVER EVER sends a gnd signal to the SWITCHING solenoid, then the ECU is broken in that area of operation.

USUALLY you can HEAR the RELIEF and or SWITCHING solenoids clicking as you adjust the TPS. Listen the next time you set the TPS. When a LED comes on you should be able to HEAR the relevant solenoid engage or click if you will.

I've set TPS using most all the methods and can tell you that the end result when set per FSM, is for the TPS to be outputting a 1vdc signal to the ECU on the green/red wire (series four).

Next time you set the TPS using the LEDs, and just get only one light to EVER come on, try to see which socket of the TPS check connector that particular light is going to and the color of the wire in that socket. On a series five car, the wire to the Relief solenoid is Blue/Yellow and the Switching is Blue/Red.

 

my bad
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