Half Jap Boost Junky

Its almost time...car comes out May 1st and then the break in process begins. I hope to have my engine properly broken in by the end of May and install all of my go fast goodies the beginning of June.

Now for the question. I am trying to break 11s and I need to know what needs to be upgraded in the rear. I've read posts that say the stock diff is good for over 600hp, but what about the driveshafts.....I've also heard that its a good idea to upgrade the diff mounts. The first drag event isn't until the 2nd or 3rd week in June and I really want to be ready for it, but if I have to wait in order to save myself from breaking at the track then I will.

I need suggestions on what else I need in order to have my car ready to run hard and solid. I'm talking nuts bolts bushings.....anything.

Currently waiting to install the following:

Greddy V-spl FMIC, HKS SSQBOV, Greddy Type-R External Wastegate, Greddy Turbo Manifold, Haltech E6K, Mitsubishi TD07 25G Turbo (hoping to pick up a Greddy T78), Fluidyne Rad, E-fan, 1600cc Secondarys, 720cc Primarys, MSD 6A ignition box, Racing beat spark wires, engine torque brace and even a KAZZ 1.5 LSD if I need it.

I already have Walbro 255lph fuel pump, full exhaust w/ 3" down and mid pipe (I'll probably switch over to a full 3.5" single exhaust), FPR, HKS EVC IV Boost Controller, Racing Beat Dual Alt Pully, Rebuilt motor w/ new rotor housings, 3mm apex seals and Street Port, and finnally a Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch.

I'm also currently running stock rims and rubber. I've been trying to get my hand on a set of Gram Light 57c but it seems that its almost impossible to get them. I'm at the point that I'll look seriously at anything that will allow me to run a 275 BFG Drag Radial in the rear. Again, any suggestios?

Thanks for any help.

Half Jap Boost Junky

bump

andrewb70

You should not have any problems with your half shafts as long as you have a TII rear end. You have to do something about the front diff mount. Some people have used the Mazda comp mount, others have gone to a solid mount. Yet another approach is the pinion snubber. Your biggest enemy will be wheel hop. Good springs and shocks will help. Drag radials will also help the wheel hop. I suggest getting a set of the new MT ET Drag Radials. You don't need anything bigger than 235/60/15s. Your 60 foot times will be in the 1.6-1.7 range with those tires, provided you launch well.

Keep in mind that TII rear ends are not indestructable. Attached is a picture of the drivers side stub axle that I broke last fall.

Andrew

Half Jap Boost Junky

Thanks for the info.

Anyone else what to add to, or contest what Andrew said?

I other words.......bump

Cybaster

I know MSD 6A is cheaper than Crane Hi-6 but i suggest the Hi-6... I haven't used the MSD before, but just looking at the analog circuitry makes me worry. both are CDIs so u don't have to worry about them being Inductive, but I personally own the CraneCams Hi-6 and it feels great.... and digital Circuitry inside so it should last longer =D

i think what u've listed is good and more than enough ^_^
just for the fun of it, the Blitz BOV is LOUD as HELL.... the HKS SSQV sounds unique, but i think it is not that loud (since i have and its OK....)