I recently bought a 87 TII. When I bought it the coolant buzzer was going off and I have been trying to fix it.

I have a few questions.

First when I have searched people were talking about a sensor on the top middle of the radiator. Is it this what my finger is touching b/c if it is, something is missing.



Also is the air bleeder valve what my thumb is touching in this pic?



And last, when I was putting in my new thermostat I broke this little connector to this green wire that was attached to part of the thermostat housing.

In the pic, the place the connector went to is right in between the radiator cap and the alternator. The wire that attached to it is the one I am holding behind it.




When I searched I read that if you take that wire and ground it to the chasis the buzzer will go away, that is why there is a blue butt splice and another wire connected to it. I grounded it to the shock tower but the buzzing didn't go away.

Thanks for any help.

Tim

 

In the 1st pic you are touching the anchor nut tab for the fan shroud & intake snorkle.

In the 2nd pic, your thumb is on the coolant level sensor plug.
It should have a wire comming out that used to connect to bullet connector socket at the end of a wire from the passenger side of the radiator.
When that circuit is ungrounded, you get a low coolant light & buzzer.

 

The wire to the water temp sensor needs to be connected, The ECU will throw a check code and assume the engine is not warming up.

 

where is the bullet connector socket? Is it this? (this though is on the drivers bottom side of the radiator though)?



Tim

 

Ok, I went to Oak Tree Mazda and got this part





My only question now is, where does the other end of the wire go???

Tim

 

There should be a long brown wire coming from a wiring harness behind the headlights or if you still have the stock filter, it will be below that. For now, if you can't find the wire, just ground the end and it will go off.

 

the wire that connects to the coolant level sensor(the one you're holding in the pic),should be hidden underneath you air intake snorkus thing that sits on top of your radiator shroud. it comes from somewhere over near the pass side headlight.

 

Thanks guys, I found the wire and it worked. No more buzzing.

Tim

 

BTW, be sure to put your shroud back on.

 

hey if ya dotn mind me asking how much was that sensor? my friend got mad and ripped his out.

 

Wrong, there are other coolant sensors (like the one at the bottom of the radiator and the one by the oil pressure sender that is a yellow wire and has a banana plug). That sensor on top is to run the auxillary electric fan in front of the radiator.

Read the FSM or something before you post stuff you don't know. It may throw a code, but it doesn't make the ECU think the engine isn't warming up. The ECU functions in open and cold loop fine with it disconnected.

 

The "sensor" at the bottom of the rad is simply a thermal switch. It's entire purpose in life is to make the 3000 RPM startup happen. I tend to remove them to prevent the 3000 RPM startup as we all know how bad this is for a dead cold engine.

 

LOL, I will be getting a shroud the next time I go to a j-yard, the car didn't have one when I bought it.

The sensor that is in the pic was $33 + tax from the dealer.

Tim

 

Yup. I didn't even bother with it when I upgraded the radiator. I don't have the accelerated warm up which is another POS you have to deal with.

 

Cool!
Isn't live better without that POS ringing in your ear?
It's so damn loud that when I had it, I could still hear it ringing in my ear even after it's off!

 

You **DO** need the shroud for it to cool otherwise the fan just pulls air from around the radiator which doesn't do jack. You'll be amazed how much cooler it runs with the shroud. I'd give mine to you for free but I live in the middle of the Pacific.

 

Actually I wont b/c my temp guage isn't working. LOL. I thought getting that new sensor would fix it but it didn't. Oh well, just another thing to fix.

And btw, there was 2 sensors you could get, 1 was 25 and the other was 33, the guy at the dealer needed my vin # to tell which one I needed.

Tim

 

You do not want to be driving around with a defective temp gauge.

This could be an easy fix as well. Above the rear trailing spark plug, there's a male small peg sticking out of the rear block. There should be a wire (yellow?)attached to it. That's for the temp gauge. If that doesn't work, temp gauges are cheap. Get one.

 

Ok, i'll check for that. I got the car recently and I have not been driving it except for the drive home.

I've been using my other n/a as a DD.

If I get a new temp guage, will auto meter be ok or should I get something better? Also does an aftermarket guage plug into that same male connector?

Tim

 

No. it doesn't. If you get one, get an electrical one since the mechanical ones have a huge sender that you have to feed through the firewall. Electrical ones have 2 wires.
Autometer is fine for monitoring and they're cheap.

 

Is the autometer an electrical one?

 

Did you find the wire? Is it attached?
Autometer makes both but electrical ones are a little more. A lot easier to run 2 wires than a huge sender through the firewall isn't it? You just need to ground the sender in the engine. It's easy to install.
The sender is a 1/8NPT thread and comes with 1/4 adapter. You need to tap the thermostat housing to thread in the sender or buy an adapter with an 1/8 NPT thread for you to attach 2 hoses. I bought a Greddy sender adapter but not sure you can get it in the US.

 

I found the wire, it was yellow, and it was attached. Earlier today I bought a Splitfire electrical one for $40. Going to put it in tomorrow.

BTW: what does NPT stand for?

Tim

 

So, I assume the temp gauge doesn't work if you're getting an aftermarket one?

NPT= National Pipe Thread
standard code for 99% of the world except Britain which uses code BSP (British Standard Pipe)
Go figure.

 

Yeah the stock one still did not work. The senders both look about the same size so hopefully it will fit with no adapter.

Tim