How do i fix my idle problem if i can even call it that. WHen my car was auto it idled at 750 RPM. Now that its stick shift and i did the conversion its very hard to have her idle at 750. If i do she tends to shut off on me.

When i use to start her up when she was auto she did the 3000 RPM thing for a few seconds then back down to 750 as she is suppose to.

now that its stick, and i got the new RB exhaust on it (cuase before it had missing mufflers so i attributed the 1000RPm idle due to exhaust missing), i have to let the car get really warm before she can stay at 750 and idle. So to avoid having this issue my car idles about 800-900 RPMS.

Also if i drive my car without letting it warm up for a good amount of time , she shuts o ff on me when i press the clutch in , the rpms just drops of and shuts my car down.

Thanks

Jason NYC

 

Mine does the same, and I've checked the TPS, as well as cleaned the BAC valve. Some people mentioned something about a wax pellet? Could someone elaborate on that. I too have these exact same sypmtoms when I put my new motor in. Everything else is great and so is the motor, but when cold the motor does what his does.

 

Well to add onto my idle problem.

Whats up with the air adjust valve. I start my car and it dies if i dont hold the gas pedal.

When i first start her up i hold it to 3k then guide her back down. SHe dies. THen i restart her and she idles at like 500-600RPMS, but doesnt sound strong . Like it can shut off at any moment.

SO i let the car warm up, to normal operating temperatures, and adjust the air adjust valve for like 700-800RPM cuase it flucuates. The next day i let her warm up the idle is at a diff position, sometimes higher, sometimes lower.

And if i dont let her warmu up and i take her out the idle is very low and on ocasssion drops all the way down and my car shuts off. If my car DOESNT shutt off and the RPM hits like 500RPM, it jumps up to like 1.2K or so, kinda like to stop it from shutting offf.

Suggestions.

I got new wires, sparkplugs, etc. Can it be shitty gas?

Jason NYC

 

i have a similar problem. the car wont idle cold, sometimes it holds at 750 when warm, sometime fluctuates between 750 and 1500, sometimes holds at 1000. i adjusted the tps, redid intake gaskets and all new vac lines.

when i bought my car it idled at 3k. i got it down to this by doing all this. i really just want my car to idle so it doesnt look like i cant drive.

 

i'll take a look at yours at the meet or after or something, i've been fooling around with this stuff since i got the car.

 

ight hopefully you wont get lost getting to the meet and i get to see you hahaha

See ya there

Jason NYC

 

#1 cold idle problems sound like you both have removed the thermowax assembly from the throttle body. The thermo wax valve is designed to hold idle stable when starting cold starting at around 1200 RPM and slowly dropping as the car warms.

#2 TPS How did you test it??? Sure sounds like it is off

or

#3 You have a vac leak. Classic vac leak won't idle below 900-1000 RPM. Have ether of you checked for vac leaks???

Its pretty much one of those three. Clogged injectors, bad spark plugs, bd sparkplug cables all would make the car hard to start and it would run like ****. Something that none of you have mentioned

 

im getting a compression test done today...that should let me know what is wrong because ive got the exact same problem as all of you do...ill let you all know how it goes and what i find out

 

#1 I have the thermowax cold start system is still intact. My throttle body is unmodified. My car doesn't hold idle at 1200 though.

#2 I used a multimeter and set it at 1k ohm (i'm pretty sure thats right, i looked it up before i did it, but i forget now) I also checked for dead spots.

#3 I definately had a vac leak, that's how i got my idle under the 3k i bought it at. and when warm it idles, for the most part, spot on at 750.

I think i might just need new thermowax, or to adjust the lever thing on the back of the tb so that it functions according to the fsm spec. i havent checked it for functionality actually.

 

Yes Icemark I know all the other syptoms but I just don't have the time to get to the injectors and all that. I am pulling my motor soon to swap into another shell and when I do that then I'll check everything. But I used a volt meter from kragen to test it, and resistance was exactly where it should be closed and open. I'm just thinking that thermo wax valve is bad on mine. Because when warm it's perfect, and it does the 3K warm up just fine. It's just if I drive off when it's cold and push the clutch it might die, or almost die unless I give it some gas. Once it's warm it's perfect.

 

i use to have the 3k warm up when it was auto, how do i get it back. WHen they did my tranny swap the first time, i guess they musta removed something.

Also my thermowax must be intact cuase it was never modified.

Ima check the tps first and see and check the throttle cable maybe its messed up

Jason NYC