Am I not holding fuel pressure?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Am I not holding fuel pressure?
86 N/A newly re-build engine 250miles on it, not quite sure why the car is doing this. It only does it when it sits over night or after I go to start it after work and it does it more if it is colder out dunno how that makes sense. I read it should sit and 40psi while sitting and 30psi running is that right?
If I pump the pedal a few times it will start to act like it wants to start then will do it but only on maybe the 3rd or 4th crank. What do you guys think it is?
<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/100_1484.flv">
Also after I drive it I think it smells a little rich I mean like you can smell more fuel in the exhaust when you get out of the car than it seems you should. Any suggestions on how to get a better air fuel mixture would help. If it is running rich will hotter plugs help ignite the fuel better. In the vid the car is not reving it self up to 2k thats me on the gas other wise the car does not generally go up to 3k like I hear alot of peoples do and go back down to base idle. It will start and slowly go up to base idle no higher dunno if that a good or bad thing.
If I pump the pedal a few times it will start to act like it wants to start then will do it but only on maybe the 3rd or 4th crank. What do you guys think it is?
<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/100_1484.flv">
Also after I drive it I think it smells a little rich I mean like you can smell more fuel in the exhaust when you get out of the car than it seems you should. Any suggestions on how to get a better air fuel mixture would help. If it is running rich will hotter plugs help ignite the fuel better. In the vid the car is not reving it self up to 2k thats me on the gas other wise the car does not generally go up to 3k like I hear alot of peoples do and go back down to base idle. It will start and slowly go up to base idle no higher dunno if that a good or bad thing.
#3
Sequentially broken
Sounds like one of two things. Either you're having the normal 'hot start' problem that most people have, where it never wants to refire shortly after stopping (but will usually start fine after sitting a while/overnight), or what it sounds more likely from the video a coolant seal. It definitely sounds a lot like what you hear on startup from a vehicle with a coolant seal problem. Do you have a fuel cut switch installed at all?
#4
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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Let's see. Stone cold engine from what the instruments show.
Does not rev to approx 3000 rpms upon startup and then slowly go down in revs as the engine is warming up....Means on a 1986 non turbo that the fast idle operation (thermowax etc ) is disabled for some unknown reason (see page 4A-56 of the 86 FSM) and the double throttle diaphram etc is not working (never has on any of my three cars and I don't miss it) which is shown on the next couple of FSM pages somewhere.
Plus the BAC system (see page 4A-63 of the FSM) isn't working right either (no 17 second fast idle observed), so check out that Air Bypass Solenoid on those pages (and relay) while there along with making sure that water temperature switch on the bottom left of the stock radiator is connected up to the harness (matters on cold starts for the 17 second fast idle and working of the relief solenoid).
From what I've seen using a fuel pressure gauge, the fuel rails will be pressurized well within two seconds of holding the key to Start even if the rails were zero pressure at the beginning....and will hold that pressure for over a minute after the key is put to off or taken out of the igniton set.
So.......old car and nobody knows what the previous owners have fiddled with and removed or fiddled up. How's it start when fully warmed up? Holding the pedal down just lets more air in on this fuel injected car. Might help clear a flooded engine when doing so.
Heavy exhaust smell??? old catalytic converter or no catalytic converter and maybe lack of airpump and ACV. Who knows. Plus maybe a old engine/used engine.
Does not rev to approx 3000 rpms upon startup and then slowly go down in revs as the engine is warming up....Means on a 1986 non turbo that the fast idle operation (thermowax etc ) is disabled for some unknown reason (see page 4A-56 of the 86 FSM) and the double throttle diaphram etc is not working (never has on any of my three cars and I don't miss it) which is shown on the next couple of FSM pages somewhere.
Plus the BAC system (see page 4A-63 of the FSM) isn't working right either (no 17 second fast idle observed), so check out that Air Bypass Solenoid on those pages (and relay) while there along with making sure that water temperature switch on the bottom left of the stock radiator is connected up to the harness (matters on cold starts for the 17 second fast idle and working of the relief solenoid).
From what I've seen using a fuel pressure gauge, the fuel rails will be pressurized well within two seconds of holding the key to Start even if the rails were zero pressure at the beginning....and will hold that pressure for over a minute after the key is put to off or taken out of the igniton set.
So.......old car and nobody knows what the previous owners have fiddled with and removed or fiddled up. How's it start when fully warmed up? Holding the pedal down just lets more air in on this fuel injected car. Might help clear a flooded engine when doing so.
Heavy exhaust smell??? old catalytic converter or no catalytic converter and maybe lack of airpump and ACV. Who knows. Plus maybe a old engine/used engine.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Let's see. Stone cold engine from what the instruments show.
Does not rev to approx 3000 rpms upon startup and then slowly go down in revs as the engine is warming up....Means on a 1986 non turbo that the fast idle operation (thermowax etc ) is disabled for some unknown reason (see page 4A-56 of the 86 FSM) and the double throttle diaphram etc is not working (never has on any of my three cars and I don't miss it) which is shown on the next couple of FSM pages somewhere.
Plus the BAC system (see page 4A-63 of the FSM) isn't working right either (no 17 second fast idle observed), so check out that Air Bypass Solenoid on those pages (and relay) while there along with making sure that water temperature switch on the bottom left of the stock radiator is connected up to the harness (matters on cold starts for the 17 second fast idle and working of the relief solenoid).
From what I've seen using a fuel pressure gauge, the fuel rails will be pressurized well within two seconds of holding the key to Start even if the rails were zero pressure at the beginning....and will hold that pressure for over a minute after the key is put to off or taken out of the igniton set.
So.......old car and nobody knows what the previous owners have fiddled with and removed or fiddled up. How's it start when fully warmed up? Holding the pedal down just lets more air in on this fuel injected car. Might help clear a flooded engine when doing so.
Heavy exhaust smell??? old catalytic converter or no catalytic converter and maybe lack of airpump and ACV. Who knows. Plus maybe a old engine/used engine.
Does not rev to approx 3000 rpms upon startup and then slowly go down in revs as the engine is warming up....Means on a 1986 non turbo that the fast idle operation (thermowax etc ) is disabled for some unknown reason (see page 4A-56 of the 86 FSM) and the double throttle diaphram etc is not working (never has on any of my three cars and I don't miss it) which is shown on the next couple of FSM pages somewhere.
Plus the BAC system (see page 4A-63 of the FSM) isn't working right either (no 17 second fast idle observed), so check out that Air Bypass Solenoid on those pages (and relay) while there along with making sure that water temperature switch on the bottom left of the stock radiator is connected up to the harness (matters on cold starts for the 17 second fast idle and working of the relief solenoid).
From what I've seen using a fuel pressure gauge, the fuel rails will be pressurized well within two seconds of holding the key to Start even if the rails were zero pressure at the beginning....and will hold that pressure for over a minute after the key is put to off or taken out of the igniton set.
So.......old car and nobody knows what the previous owners have fiddled with and removed or fiddled up. How's it start when fully warmed up? Holding the pedal down just lets more air in on this fuel injected car. Might help clear a flooded engine when doing so.
Heavy exhaust smell??? old catalytic converter or no catalytic converter and maybe lack of airpump and ACV. Who knows. Plus maybe a old engine/used engine.
Thanks for the help so far
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Look what I discovered
Well I just got back home opened the door and wam fuel smell again so I get down to peer under the car only to find fuel leaking near my left rear tire took pictures. This is probably a big part of the problem anyone got any suggestions on how to fix this should I go out and buy an bunch of fuel line? It almost looks like the last guy that had it a while back put a temporary fix on it or somthing it looks like there is some kind of rubberized crud on it.
<a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/?action=view¤t=100_1485.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/100_1485.jpg" border="0" alt="Fuel Leak"></a>
<a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/?action=view¤t=100_1486.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/100_1486.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Was wondering why it was eating gas like a pig I can't start the car to fix my start up issue till this gets resolved its amazing nothing caught fire being so close to the exhaust.
<a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/?action=view¤t=100_1485.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/100_1485.jpg" border="0" alt="Fuel Leak"></a>
<a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/?action=view¤t=100_1486.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/100_1486.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Was wondering why it was eating gas like a pig I can't start the car to fix my start up issue till this gets resolved its amazing nothing caught fire being so close to the exhaust.
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#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Seems cheaper to buy the actual metal lines from parts store the hosing looks more expensive. Then I am gonna have to get it all connected well this should be fun one thing after another but what can you expect from and old car. I need to just replace the whole thing under the car looks corroded and rusty as hell.
#9
Sequentially broken
All of the lines look to be in pretty bad shape. It may be more worthwhile to replace each one with a whole new section. If there's some decent line left, you can cut sections out and add fittings to replace sections with new metal hardlines. I wouldn't suggest using rubber.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Here is my idea
I was thinking of cutting the fuel lines out between two spots.
This first pic shows where the leak is
<a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/?action=view¤t=100_1488.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/100_1488.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
These next two pics show the section I am thinking of cutting out an replacing with rubber fuel line.
<a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/?action=view¤t=100_1489.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/100_1489.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/?action=view¤t=100_1490.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/100_1490.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I am basically looking at cutting out the whole curved area under the rear end.
This first pic shows where the leak is
<a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/?action=view¤t=100_1488.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/100_1488.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
These next two pics show the section I am thinking of cutting out an replacing with rubber fuel line.
<a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/?action=view¤t=100_1489.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/100_1489.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/?action=view¤t=100_1490.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb1/Toxindude/100_1490.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I am basically looking at cutting out the whole curved area under the rear end.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well I got some 6ft long fuel lines and a bending tool, some clamps and hose gonna replace both fuel lines I will have to get back under there and replace the brake lines at a later time.
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'm sick! from being out in the cold all day lol.
Anyway I still have to prime the system and all that good stuff. But it was worth the hard work. I replaced the brake lines to it was to much of a B**** to get that all off I didn't want to do it again later. It wasn't all that costly either maybe close to 60$. As for my rust issue I will have to take care of that later the salt on the roads don't help much the car needs some body work under there and the right rear fender well needs work to. But one thing at a time I guess, will post pics.
Anyway I still have to prime the system and all that good stuff. But it was worth the hard work. I replaced the brake lines to it was to much of a B**** to get that all off I didn't want to do it again later. It wasn't all that costly either maybe close to 60$. As for my rust issue I will have to take care of that later the salt on the roads don't help much the car needs some body work under there and the right rear fender well needs work to. But one thing at a time I guess, will post pics.
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well I primed the system gave her a few tries and it started up. Everything is holding good pressure so far even the brake lines. The only issue now is the tuning needs to be messed with again like my oringinal post said the car never goes up to 3k upon startup just goes up to 1k and holds or lower. What would cause that I did recently adjust the fast idle screw on the throttle body only because there was huge gap there that I read on another post should be adjusted to where it barely toches the stop bolt or what not any suggestions did I adjust it wrong if so i will go back to fsm and check it out.
Thanks
Thanks
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Took the throttle body back off re-adjusted it to fsm specs using hot water and blow drying lol. Adjusted the CAS a little bit car starts right up, still don't go up to 3k then come down but holds at 1k an runs great.
#24
Full Member
iTrader: (3)
i recently found out why in boost my fuel pressure would drop from 43 to 10 in less then a second!..'only in boost too'. not positive if this would fix ur prob but i honestly just changed my fuel filter. it was only a year old, but i slapped a brand new one and it holds pressure just fine.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Radiator sensor was not bypassed and is wired up correctly.
Holds fuel pressure just fine no problem there.
Was just wondering why it don't go up to 3k upon start up. I will go take a vid real quick
Holds fuel pressure just fine no problem there.
Was just wondering why it don't go up to 3k upon start up. I will go take a vid real quick