86 N/A newly re-build engine 250miles on it, not quite sure why the car is doing this. It only does it when it sits over night or after I go to start it after work and it does it more if it is colder out dunno how that makes sense. I read it should sit and 40psi while sitting and 30psi running is that right?

If I pump the pedal a few times it will start to act like it wants to start then will do it but only on maybe the 3rd or 4th crank. What do you guys think it is?

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Also after I drive it I think it smells a little rich I mean like you can smell more fuel in the exhaust when you get out of the car than it seems you should. Any suggestions on how to get a better air fuel mixture would help. If it is running rich will hotter plugs help ignite the fuel better. In the vid the car is not reving it self up to 2k thats me on the gas other wise the car does not generally go up to 3k like I hear alot of peoples do and go back down to base idle. It will start and slowly go up to base idle no higher dunno if that a good or bad thing.

 

Something is clearly wrong. You need to fix this issue before attempting to apply a bandaid, like hotter plugs.

Don't pump the gas pedal, it's not carb-ed.

 

Sounds like one of two things. Either you're having the normal 'hot start' problem that most people have, where it never wants to refire shortly after stopping (but will usually start fine after sitting a while/overnight), or what it sounds more likely from the video a coolant seal. It definitely sounds a lot like what you hear on startup from a vehicle with a coolant seal problem. Do you have a fuel cut switch installed at all?

 

Let's see. Stone cold engine from what the instruments show.

Does not rev to approx 3000 rpms upon startup and then slowly go down in revs as the engine is warming up....Means on a 1986 non turbo that the fast idle operation (thermowax etc ) is disabled for some unknown reason (see page 4A-56 of the 86 FSM) and the double throttle diaphram etc is not working (never has on any of my three cars and I don't miss it) which is shown on the next couple of FSM pages somewhere.

Plus the BAC system (see page 4A-63 of the FSM) isn't working right either (no 17 second fast idle observed), so check out that Air Bypass Solenoid on those pages (and relay) while there along with making sure that water temperature switch on the bottom left of the stock radiator is connected up to the harness (matters on cold starts for the 17 second fast idle and working of the relief solenoid).

From what I've seen using a fuel pressure gauge, the fuel rails will be pressurized well within two seconds of holding the key to Start even if the rails were zero pressure at the beginning....and will hold that pressure for over a minute after the key is put to off or taken out of the igniton set.

So.......old car and nobody knows what the previous owners have fiddled with and removed or fiddled up. How's it start when fully warmed up? Holding the pedal down just lets more air in on this fuel injected car. Might help clear a flooded engine when doing so.

Heavy exhaust smell??? old catalytic converter or no catalytic converter and maybe lack of airpump and ACV. Who knows. Plus maybe a old engine/used engine.

 

I will take a look at the FSM information to see what I can do. The heavy exhaust smell yeah the airpump has been removed along with ACV. Just didn't know it was supposed to smell that heavy. The car starts up fine when its warmed up this only happens when its stone cold. I will get back to you gonna try to take a look at it today weather permitting.

Thanks for the help so far

 

Well I just got back home opened the door and wam fuel smell again so I get down to peer under the car only to find fuel leaking near my left rear tire took pictures. This is probably a big part of the problem anyone got any suggestions on how to fix this should I go out and buy an bunch of fuel line? It almost looks like the last guy that had it a while back put a temporary fix on it or somthing it looks like there is some kind of rubberized crud on it.

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Was wondering why it was eating gas like a pig I can't start the car to fix my start up issue till this gets resolved its amazing nothing caught fire being so close to the exhaust.

 

You're going to need to replace that line..

 

Seems cheaper to buy the actual metal lines from parts store the hosing looks more expensive. Then I am gonna have to get it all connected well this should be fun one thing after another but what can you expect from and old car. I need to just replace the whole thing under the car looks corroded and rusty as hell.

 

All of the lines look to be in pretty bad shape. It may be more worthwhile to replace each one with a whole new section. If there's some decent line left, you can cut sections out and add fittings to replace sections with new metal hardlines. I wouldn't suggest using rubber.

 

Anyone have any idea how big these lines are so I can get the right size?

 

I was thinking of cutting the fuel lines out between two spots.

This first pic shows where the leak is

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These next two pics show the section I am thinking of cutting out an replacing with rubber fuel line.

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I am basically looking at cutting out the whole curved area under the rear end.

 

jesus. replace the whole entire set of lines dude. i would also change what other lines you have under there, and treat the whole underside of the car for rust.

 

That whole thing needs to be gone through.

Once you get the lines off, you'll be able to tell how big.

 

do it once, do it right. replace all those lines. that **** is nasty

 

I am heading to the parts store right now. Yeah I know its terrible under there

 

Well I got some 6ft long fuel lines and a bending tool, some clamps and hose gonna replace both fuel lines I will have to get back under there and replace the brake lines at a later time.

 

Well I got under there and replaced all the fuel lines and brake lines took me all day but its done.

 

so... whats the verdict?

 

I'm sick! from being out in the cold all day lol.

Anyway I still have to prime the system and all that good stuff. But it was worth the hard work. I replaced the brake lines to it was to much of a B**** to get that all off I didn't want to do it again later. It wasn't all that costly either maybe close to 60$. As for my rust issue I will have to take care of that later the salt on the roads don't help much the car needs some body work under there and the right rear fender well needs work to. But one thing at a time I guess, will post pics.

 

Good deal! I'd keep an eye on these for at least a week and test your brakes hard to make sure everything is sealed properly.

 

Well I primed the system gave her a few tries and it started up. Everything is holding good pressure so far even the brake lines. The only issue now is the tuning needs to be messed with again like my oringinal post said the car never goes up to 3k upon startup just goes up to 1k and holds or lower. What would cause that I did recently adjust the fast idle screw on the throttle body only because there was huge gap there that I read on another post should be adjusted to where it barely toches the stop bolt or what not any suggestions did I adjust it wrong if so i will go back to fsm and check it out.

Thanks

 

Took the throttle body back off re-adjusted it to fsm specs using hot water and blow drying lol. Adjusted the CAS a little bit car starts right up, still don't go up to 3k then come down but holds at 1k an runs great.

 

Is the sensor which reads your radiator temp upon startup wired properly or was it bypassed?

 

i recently found out why in boost my fuel pressure would drop from 43 to 10 in less then a second!..'only in boost too'. not positive if this would fix ur prob but i honestly just changed my fuel filter. it was only a year old, but i slapped a brand new one and it holds pressure just fine.

 

Radiator sensor was not bypassed and is wired up correctly.

Holds fuel pressure just fine no problem there.

Was just wondering why it don't go up to 3k upon start up. I will go take a vid real quick