Finally got a killer deal on an AFM (35 shipped w/ a cone filter adapter and intake hoses), go out back to crank up the FC to pull it up to the shop and install it. Well, apparently, an injector decided to crap out on me, cause it flooded as soon as I hit the switch.

Pulled the plugs, spun it over to blow it out w/ the green injection fuse pulled, did a compression check while I was at it, front rotor was 50/50/75, rear was 75/75/75, give or take 5psi. Dried the plugs, did everyhting back up, same thing. So I pulled the upper intake and removed the rails and injectors, going to see if I can find somewhere local to have them checked out. Found out that the pressure hose between the rails had a split in the sheath and needed replacing too, so it's just as well.

Oh well, I guess it's par for the course on a 140k mile car

 

Recheck your compression after you clear the flooding. One of the reasons a flooded rotary does not start is that the excess gas dilutes the oil the combustion chambers, reducing the compression. One way to start a badly flooded engine is to put some oil or transmission fluid in the sparkplug holes to restore compression temporarily lost during the flooding incident. Your compression may not be as bad as you think.

Good luck.

 

Okay, I wondered about that, I'll try it once I check my injectors out. I left the plugs out anyway, to dry it out good, I'll maybe pour some tranny fluid in there today. I guess that'll help clean out any carbon too, right?

 

Is there a way to properly test injectors yourself? I checked them all w/ a battery and some jumper wires, and they all click when you energize them. And I can't blow through any of them closed, although I dunno if that really means anything.

I think maybe my TPS crapped out, not the injectors. Probably acted like it was wide open.

 

Bump