2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

aluminum driveshaft

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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 04:42 AM
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aluminum driveshaft

Does anyone know were to get a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft.
And has anyone used the exedy clutch and lightweight flywheel on there cars.
Thanks.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 05:59 AM
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http://mazdatrix.com/g9.htm

Mazdatrix has them . Look in their drive train/drive shaft link
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 11:53 AM
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Is there any benefit to using an aluminum driveshaft?
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 12:14 PM
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less rotating mass? but is it as strong?
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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I don't think the reduced weight is very noticeable.

Seeing as Torque = Force * Length of Arm, the driveshaft is only a few inches in diameter. Something with a larger diameter (flywheel) would have a much greater response to weight reduction.

The yield and torsional strength are kind of hard to compare since we don't know the specific materials, but aluminum is generally more brittle then steel.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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They are plenty strong.

The question is if its worth it, they advertise the alum DS as being around 10 pounds, The steel one doesn't feel much heaver than that maybe 15 pounds.

And unlike a flywheel, all of the weight is in a very small circumference.

Also the drive shaft speed is a factor of ground speed not engine speed, and its spinning failry slow in the lower gears.

Do you notice if a car has a lightweight fly wheel in 4th and 5th gear, does it matter at that point?

I just can't see any measurable gain in from using something like this. It would probably go total unnoticed.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 01:28 PM
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some people consider a light weight alum flywheel a part of a weight reduction package. Alone by itself, it's really not going to give back huge dividends in performance. Those that do choose one, are really fine picking at what little power can be scavenged.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 04:44 PM
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if u reduce rotating weight it inceases accleration and theres less friction do to less weight being bouced around on the bearing....a rough guide 1 pound of rotating weight will have simlar performance gain to removing 3 pounds of static weight
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 05:03 PM
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all the ballers go carbon fiber DS.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 06:55 PM
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http://www.speedmachineperformance.com

Also has them.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kustomizingkid
Aluminum can help with vibration issues, so If you feel the need to drive 100+ mph it might be for you.
Did you just type that with your serious face or were you drunk/high/laughing your *** off doing it. That has got to be the stupidest thing I've ever heard. Care to explain yourself? I could build a cast iron driveshaft and not have it cause vibrations.

Seriously? WTF???
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by slo
They are plenty strong.

The question is if its worth it, they advertise the alum DS as being around 10 pounds, The steel one doesn't feel much heaver than that maybe 15 pounds.

And unlike a flywheel, all of the weight is in a very small circumference.

Also the drive shaft speed is a factor of ground speed not engine speed, and its spinning failry slow in the lower gears.

Do you notice if a car has a lightweight fly wheel in 4th and 5th gear, does it matter at that point?

I just can't see any measurable gain in from using something like this. It would probably go total unnoticed.
I believe you just hit the nail on the head. And just becuase I think that fact > opinion > anything a company trying to hock a product says I decided to go weigh my TII driveshaft - 13lbs.

MT aluminum driveshaft = waste of ******* money on a street car.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mightymite
if u reduce rotating weight it inceases accleration and theres less friction do to less weight being bouced around on the bearing....a rough guide 1 pound of rotating weight will have simlar performance gain to removing 3 pounds of static weight
hmmmmm ok - so as opposed to paying $400 for a useless driveshaft to save 9 lbs of static weight, I'll just syphon a gallon or so of gas. Maybe remove some tar, take a **** before I go racing All seem like a better use of money than the driveshaft.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 11:33 PM
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Yup, all it boils down to is the basic "bang for your buck" statement.

The Aluminum driveshaft fails in this regard.
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 11:55 PM
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Nope, not with a 2.5 in dia tube, and the weight isn't/shouldn't be bounced around, thats what dynamic drive shaft balancing is for.


Originally Posted by mightymite
if u reduce rotating weight it inceases accleration and theres less friction do to less weight being bouced around on the bearing....a rough guide 1 pound of rotating weight will have simlar performance gain to removing 3 pounds of static weight
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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 02:36 AM
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Why i was asking is cause, stock driveshaft's are 2 pieces and if you make it one it would be more power to the wheels you know. But are TII's driveshaft's 1 pieces or what. I dont know.
So let me know what yall think.
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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
MT aluminum driveshaft = waste of ******* money on a street car.
$382.50 Mazdatrix Aluminum TII Driveshaft
$375.75 Mazda OEM TII Driveshaft

$6.75 Difference

That only "fails" if you are on Welfare.


Originally Posted by fc3sdude
Why i was asking is cause, stock driveshaft's are 2 pieces and if you make it one it would be more power to the wheels you know. But are TII's driveshaft's 1 pieces or what. I dont know.
So let me know what yall think.
Our cars have 1-piece driveshafts. The 2-piece driveshaft is a Mazda Motorsports racing part that is designed to reduce harmonics and resonance in GT race cars.
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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 11:11 AM
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Mine is completely stock and i have a 2 piece driveshaft. Its a 1986 base model i dont even have bins
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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by fc3sdude
Mine is completely stock and i have a 2 piece driveshaft. Its a 1986 base model i dont even have bins
... and you know that it is completely stock because you bought it new, or there is ZERO chance that a previous owner modified the car? Also, the 2+2 model doesn't have bins.

Just to make sure we are on the same page, the driveshaft on the left is 1-piece, and the driveshaft on the right is 2-piece (has an extra joint in the middle).

Attached Thumbnails aluminum driveshaft-2shafts.jpg  
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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
$382.50 Mazdatrix Aluminum TII Driveshaft
$375.75 Mazda OEM TII Driveshaft

$6.75 Difference

That only "fails" if you are on Welfare.
Used TII driveshafts can be had for $50. Not to mention the way I read it was, "I already have a perfectly good useably driveshaft and want to upgrade to the aluminum for mad extra hp." That's how I read it. If I was in desperate need of a driveshaft and couldn't find a used one and was FORCED to buy a new one then yes I would spring for the extra $7. But that's not how I read the question.

I may also be biased becuase I was ranking on a buddies buddy in BAW who spent $1200 on a full TII clip with tranny/driveshaft and THEN an additional $400 on this driveshaft. Now tell me that $400 could not have been better spent.

& we all know that if you're on Welfare you have no business owning a rotary
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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 12:14 PM
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Mazdatrix Aftermarket, non oem steel driveshaft which uses heavy duty spicer U joints THAT ARE REPLACEABLE and readily available at every autoparts store.

$258

Thats a 124.10 difference

now its back to the category called fail.

Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
$382.50 Mazdatrix Aluminum TII Driveshaft
$375.75 Mazda OEM TII Driveshaft

$6.75 Difference

That only "fails" if you are on Welfare.



Our cars have 1-piece driveshafts. The 2-piece driveshaft is a Mazda Motorsports racing part that is designed to reduce harmonics and resonance in GT race cars.
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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
Used TII driveshafts can be had for $50.
It's not worth spending $50 on a used driveshaft that will most likely fail given its age at this point in time. A friend of mine had one fail at about 35mph and the resulting vibration totaled his interior. I would hate to see what happens at higher speeds.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
I may also be biased becuase I was ranking on a buddies buddy in BAW who spent $1200 on a full TII clip with tranny/driveshaft and THEN an additional $400 on this driveshaft. Now tell me that $400 could not have been better spent.
I would have done the same thing.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
& we all know that if you're on Welfare you have no business owning a rotary
True, you would probably upgrade to a really nice SUV with an expensive stereo system.

Originally Posted by slo
Thats a 124.10 difference

now its back to the category called fail.
I still do not consider that significant for a part that is good for 150,000 miles. However, it is nice to have that choice.
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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 12:25 PM
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Dang - I guess we finally disagree.

I'm confused on how vibrations can total an interior in a matter of seconds? If a u-joint lets go at 35 MPH and vibrations start the first thing I'm doing is pulling over ASAP to figure out WTF just happened and stopping from 35 doesn't take but a few seconds.

I've also never had the experience of a driveshaft failing & causing damage so my opinion is skewed. If it came off a car that was running great it whould be fine. They are all going to fail at some point, even the new ones so
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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
True, you would probably upgrade to a really nice SUV with an expensive stereo system. .
- That's awesome
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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
I still do not consider that significant for a part that is good for 150,000 miles. However, it is nice to have that choice.
The steel after market one will last just as long.

Really the issue is spending money for something with no possible noticeable improvement, thats not visible unless your under the car.
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