aluminum driveshaft
I don't think the reduced weight is very noticeable.
Seeing as Torque = Force * Length of Arm, the driveshaft is only a few inches in diameter. Something with a larger diameter (flywheel) would have a much greater response to weight reduction.
The yield and torsional strength are kind of hard to compare since we don't know the specific materials, but aluminum is generally more brittle then steel.
Seeing as Torque = Force * Length of Arm, the driveshaft is only a few inches in diameter. Something with a larger diameter (flywheel) would have a much greater response to weight reduction.
The yield and torsional strength are kind of hard to compare since we don't know the specific materials, but aluminum is generally more brittle then steel.
They are plenty strong.
The question is if its worth it, they advertise the alum DS as being around 10 pounds, The steel one doesn't feel much heaver than that maybe 15 pounds.
And unlike a flywheel, all of the weight is in a very small circumference.
Also the drive shaft speed is a factor of ground speed not engine speed, and its spinning failry slow in the lower gears.
Do you notice if a car has a lightweight fly wheel in 4th and 5th gear, does it matter at that point?
I just can't see any measurable gain in from using something like this. It would probably go total unnoticed.
The question is if its worth it, they advertise the alum DS as being around 10 pounds, The steel one doesn't feel much heaver than that maybe 15 pounds.
And unlike a flywheel, all of the weight is in a very small circumference.
Also the drive shaft speed is a factor of ground speed not engine speed, and its spinning failry slow in the lower gears.
Do you notice if a car has a lightweight fly wheel in 4th and 5th gear, does it matter at that point?
I just can't see any measurable gain in from using something like this. It would probably go total unnoticed.
some people consider a light weight alum flywheel a part of a weight reduction package. Alone by itself, it's really not going to give back huge dividends in performance. Those that do choose one, are really fine picking at what little power can be scavenged.
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if u reduce rotating weight it inceases accleration and theres less friction do to less weight being bouced around on the bearing....a rough guide 1 pound of rotating weight will have simlar performance gain to removing 3 pounds of static weight
Seriously? WTF???
They are plenty strong.
The question is if its worth it, they advertise the alum DS as being around 10 pounds, The steel one doesn't feel much heaver than that maybe 15 pounds.
And unlike a flywheel, all of the weight is in a very small circumference.
Also the drive shaft speed is a factor of ground speed not engine speed, and its spinning failry slow in the lower gears.
Do you notice if a car has a lightweight fly wheel in 4th and 5th gear, does it matter at that point?
I just can't see any measurable gain in from using something like this. It would probably go total unnoticed.
The question is if its worth it, they advertise the alum DS as being around 10 pounds, The steel one doesn't feel much heaver than that maybe 15 pounds.
And unlike a flywheel, all of the weight is in a very small circumference.
Also the drive shaft speed is a factor of ground speed not engine speed, and its spinning failry slow in the lower gears.
Do you notice if a car has a lightweight fly wheel in 4th and 5th gear, does it matter at that point?
I just can't see any measurable gain in from using something like this. It would probably go total unnoticed.
MT aluminum driveshaft = waste of ******* money on a street car.
All seem like a better use of money than the driveshaft.
Nope, not with a 2.5 in dia tube, and the weight isn't/shouldn't be bounced around, thats what dynamic drive shaft balancing is for.
Why i was asking is cause, stock driveshaft's are 2 pieces and if you make it one it would be more power to the wheels you know. But are TII's driveshaft's 1 pieces or what. I dont know.
So let me know what yall think.
So let me know what yall think.
$382.50 Mazdatrix Aluminum TII Driveshaft
$375.75 Mazda OEM TII Driveshaft
$6.75 Difference
That only "fails" if you are on Welfare.
Our cars have 1-piece driveshafts. The 2-piece driveshaft is a Mazda Motorsports racing part that is designed to reduce harmonics and resonance in GT race cars.
$375.75 Mazda OEM TII Driveshaft
$6.75 Difference
That only "fails" if you are on Welfare.
Our cars have 1-piece driveshafts. The 2-piece driveshaft is a Mazda Motorsports racing part that is designed to reduce harmonics and resonance in GT race cars.
Just to make sure we are on the same page, the driveshaft on the left is 1-piece, and the driveshaft on the right is 2-piece (has an extra joint in the middle).
I may also be biased becuase I was ranking on a buddies buddy in BAW who spent $1200 on a full TII clip with tranny/driveshaft and THEN an additional $400 on this driveshaft. Now tell me that $400 could not have been better spent.
& we all know that if you're on Welfare you have no business owning a rotary
Mazdatrix Aftermarket, non oem steel driveshaft which uses heavy duty spicer U joints THAT ARE REPLACEABLE and readily available at every autoparts store.
$258
Thats a 124.10 difference
now its back to the category called fail.
$258
Thats a 124.10 difference
now its back to the category called fail.
$382.50 Mazdatrix Aluminum TII Driveshaft
$375.75 Mazda OEM TII Driveshaft
$6.75 Difference
That only "fails" if you are on Welfare.
Our cars have 1-piece driveshafts. The 2-piece driveshaft is a Mazda Motorsports racing part that is designed to reduce harmonics and resonance in GT race cars.
$375.75 Mazda OEM TII Driveshaft
$6.75 Difference
That only "fails" if you are on Welfare.
Our cars have 1-piece driveshafts. The 2-piece driveshaft is a Mazda Motorsports racing part that is designed to reduce harmonics and resonance in GT race cars.
It's not worth spending $50 on a used driveshaft that will most likely fail given its age at this point in time. A friend of mine had one fail at about 35mph and the resulting vibration totaled his interior. I would hate to see what happens at higher speeds.
I would have done the same thing.
True, you would probably upgrade to a really nice SUV with an expensive stereo system. 
I still do not consider that significant for a part that is good for 150,000 miles. However, it is nice to have that choice.

I still do not consider that significant for a part that is good for 150,000 miles. However, it is nice to have that choice.
Dang - I guess we finally disagree.
I'm confused on how vibrations can total an interior in a matter of seconds? If a u-joint lets go at 35 MPH and vibrations start the first thing I'm doing is pulling over ASAP to figure out WTF just happened and stopping from 35 doesn't take but a few seconds.
I've also never had the experience of a driveshaft failing & causing damage so my opinion is skewed. If it came off a car that was running great it whould be fine. They are all going to fail at some point, even the new ones so
I'm confused on how vibrations can total an interior in a matter of seconds? If a u-joint lets go at 35 MPH and vibrations start the first thing I'm doing is pulling over ASAP to figure out WTF just happened and stopping from 35 doesn't take but a few seconds.
I've also never had the experience of a driveshaft failing & causing damage so my opinion is skewed. If it came off a car that was running great it whould be fine. They are all going to fail at some point, even the new ones so
Really the issue is spending money for something with no possible noticeable improvement, thats not visible unless your under the car.






- That's awesome