fc3sdude

Does anyone know were to get a 1 piece aluminum driveshaft.
And has anyone used the exedy clutch and lightweight flywheel on there cars.
Thanks.

alwayssideways

http://mazdatrix.com/g9.htm

Mazdatrix has them . Look in their drive train/drive shaft link

fonzi581

iTrader: (1)

Is there any benefit to using an aluminum driveshaft?

Phantomkid

less rotating mass? but is it as strong?

YaNi

iTrader: (2)

I don't think the reduced weight is very noticeable.

Seeing as Torque = Force * Length of Arm, the driveshaft is only a few inches in diameter. Something with a larger diameter (flywheel) would have a much greater response to weight reduction.

The yield and torsional strength are kind of hard to compare since we don't know the specific materials, but aluminum is generally more brittle then steel.

slo

iTrader: (1)

They are plenty strong.

The question is if its worth it, they advertise the alum DS as being around 10 pounds, The steel one doesn't feel much heaver than that maybe 15 pounds.

And unlike a flywheel, all of the weight is in a very small circumference.

Also the drive shaft speed is a factor of ground speed not engine speed, and its spinning failry slow in the lower gears.

Do you notice if a car has a lightweight fly wheel in 4th and 5th gear, does it matter at that point?

I just can't see any measurable gain in from using something like this. It would probably go total unnoticed.

fastrotaries

some people consider a light weight alum flywheel a part of a weight reduction package. Alone by itself, it's really not going to give back huge dividends in performance. Those that do choose one, are really fine picking at what little power can be scavenged.

mightymite

iTrader: (1)

if u reduce rotating weight it inceases accleration and theres less friction do to less weight being bouced around on the bearing....a rough guide 1 pound of rotating weight will have simlar performance gain to removing 3 pounds of static weight

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

all the ballers go carbon fiber DS.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

http://www.speedmachineperformance.com

Also has them.

TitaniumTT

Did you just type that with your serious face or were you drunk/high/laughing your *** off doing it. That has got to be the stupidest thing I've ever heard. Care to explain yourself? I could build a cast iron driveshaft and not have it cause vibrations.

Seriously? WTF???

TitaniumTT

I believe you just hit the nail on the head. And just becuase I think that fact > opinion > anything a company trying to hock a product says I decided to go weigh my TII driveshaft - 13lbs.

MT aluminum driveshaft = waste of ******* money on a street car.

TitaniumTT

hmmmmm ok - so as opposed to paying $400 for a useless driveshaft to save 9 lbs of static weight, I'll just syphon a gallon or so of gas. Maybe remove some tar, take a **** before I go racing All seem like a better use of money than the driveshaft.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Yup, all it boils down to is the basic "bang for your buck" statement.

The Aluminum driveshaft fails in this regard.

slo

iTrader: (1)

Nope, not with a 2.5 in dia tube, and the weight isn't/shouldn't be bounced around, thats what dynamic drive shaft balancing is for.

fc3sdude

Why i was asking is cause, stock driveshaft's are 2 pieces and if you make it one it would be more power to the wheels you know. But are TII's driveshaft's 1 pieces or what. I dont know.
So let me know what yall think.

Evil Aviator

$382.50 Mazdatrix Aluminum TII Driveshaft
$375.75 Mazda OEM TII Driveshaft

$6.75 Difference

That only "fails" if you are on Welfare.


Our cars have 1-piece driveshafts. The 2-piece driveshaft is a Mazda Motorsports racing part that is designed to reduce harmonics and resonance in GT race cars.

fc3sdude

Mine is completely stock and i have a 2 piece driveshaft. Its a 1986 base model i dont even have bins

Evil Aviator

... and you know that it is completely stock because you bought it new, or there is ZERO chance that a previous owner modified the car? Also, the 2+2 model doesn't have bins.

Just to make sure we are on the same page, the driveshaft on the left is 1-piece, and the driveshaft on the right is 2-piece (has an extra joint in the middle).

TitaniumTT

Used TII driveshafts can be had for $50. Not to mention the way I read it was, "I already have a perfectly good useably driveshaft and want to upgrade to the aluminum for mad extra hp." That's how I read it. If I was in desperate need of a driveshaft and couldn't find a used one and was FORCED to buy a new one then yes I would spring for the extra $7. But that's not how I read the question.

I may also be biased becuase I was ranking on a buddies buddy in BAW who spent $1200 on a full TII clip with tranny/driveshaft and THEN an additional $400 on this driveshaft. Now tell me that $400 could not have been better spent.

& we all know that if you're on Welfare you have no business owning a rotary

slo

iTrader: (1)

Mazdatrix Aftermarket, non oem steel driveshaft which uses heavy duty spicer U joints THAT ARE REPLACEABLE and readily available at every autoparts store.

$258

Thats a 124.10 difference

now its back to the category called fail.

Evil Aviator

It's not worth spending $50 on a used driveshaft that will most likely fail given its age at this point in time. A friend of mine had one fail at about 35mph and the resulting vibration totaled his interior. I would hate to see what happens at higher speeds.

I would have done the same thing.

True, you would probably upgrade to a really nice SUV with an expensive stereo system.

I still do not consider that significant for a part that is good for 150,000 miles. However, it is nice to have that choice.

TitaniumTT

Dang - I guess we finally disagree.

I'm confused on how vibrations can total an interior in a matter of seconds? If a u-joint lets go at 35 MPH and vibrations start the first thing I'm doing is pulling over ASAP to figure out WTF just happened and stopping from 35 doesn't take but a few seconds.

I've also never had the experience of a driveshaft failing & causing damage so my opinion is skewed. If it came off a car that was running great it whould be fine. They are all going to fail at some point, even the new ones so

TitaniumTT

- That's awesome

slo

iTrader: (1)

The steel after market one will last just as long.

Really the issue is spending money for something with no possible noticeable improvement, thats not visible unless your under the car.