Aluminum driveshaft??
#2
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Florida, P.R., U.S.A.
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I made a net search and found this shop: dennys driveshaft. They make driveshaft for any application. I will like if someone of you have experience with this people or their product? please post.
#5
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by GTUsGUY
I made a net search and found this shop: dennys driveshaft. They make driveshaft for any application. I will like if someone of you have experience with this people or their product? please post.
I made a net search and found this shop: dennys driveshaft. They make driveshaft for any application. I will like if someone of you have experience with this people or their product? please post.
*edit*
nevermind
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/
Last edited by Node; 02-12-02 at 08:31 PM.
#7
NA Powah, Every Hour!
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Sacramento, CA, U S of A
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yo,
You want a carbon fiber driveshaft. When it breaks, it turns into a big bushy hairball, not something that's gonna come through the floorboards. But if you're running an NA 13B, that prolly won't ever happen. *grin*
KS
1989 GTUs "I got one for my car! On Gran Turismo...."
You want a carbon fiber driveshaft. When it breaks, it turns into a big bushy hairball, not something that's gonna come through the floorboards. But if you're running an NA 13B, that prolly won't ever happen. *grin*
KS
1989 GTUs "I got one for my car! On Gran Turismo...."
Trending Topics
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Florida, P.R., U.S.A.
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the problem is that my mechanic told me that the U-joint are giving up. But I was wondering if a good machine shop can take the old ones out and put a new set in.
or if it will be better to buy a new one, one that i can change the u-joint when they get F$#K. Also that will be lighter and stronger.
or if it will be better to buy a new one, one that i can change the u-joint when they get F$#K. Also that will be lighter and stronger.
Last edited by GTUsGUY; 02-13-02 at 10:12 AM.
#14
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Florida, P.R., U.S.A.
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TurboMike I believe the driveshaft is not rebuildable. Mazdatrix has a direct replacement for it that IS rebuildable.....
Last edited by GTUsGUY; 02-13-02 at 03:49 PM.
#15
I know you should get the driveshaft from mazdatrix if you need a new one. Then you will never have to replace it again because its not all one piece. My question is how hard is it to change by yourself?
#19
Rotary Freak
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Hampton Roads, VA
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by TurboMike
I believe the driveshaft is not rebuildable. Mazdatrix has a direct replacement for it that IS rebuildable.....
I believe the driveshaft is not rebuildable. Mazdatrix has a direct replacement for it that IS rebuildable.....
They'd like you to believe that...
Any good driveshaft shop should be able to remove the staked in u-joints and put new ones in. I had it done on one of mine, and they even put lube-able ones. They re-staked them in place, and used some epoxy to help hold them in.
A CF driveshaft really isn't a bad idea, for just the reason Rarest stated. It also has the added benefit of having less rotational mass, but the performance difference would hardly register on a dyno.
Not all RX's came with aluminum driveshafts. The A/T cars had steel ones, and I think some 5-speeds even came with steel shafts. I know one of my 86 GXL's did, though it seemed an isolated case. All the TII's, AFAIK, came with aluminum shafts. The funny thing is, there is almost no wieght difference between the steel and aluminum ones, because the aluminum ones are so much bigger around, almost twice the diameter of the steel ones.
Ren
#20
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
This is info for 1987
L1=total length
L2=from pivot point of U-Joint to pivot point of other U-Joint
OD=Outer Diameter of main shaft
Manuals
Turbo L1 966mm/38.03in L2 774mm/30.47in D 75mm/2.95in
N/A L1 967mm/38.07 L2 782mm/30.79 OD 57mm/2.24in
Auto (N/A only)
L1 913mm/35.94 L2 733mm/28.86in OD 57mm/2.24in
Blueprint Info for end bolts
Tightening Torque: 49~59N·m (5.0~6.0 m-kg, 36~43 ft-ln)
On the troubleshooting guide, all Remedy's are Replace
This is info from Yamaguchi book (1985)
I just copied and typed all of that by hand so I hope to god it helps at least one person :\
L1=total length
L2=from pivot point of U-Joint to pivot point of other U-Joint
OD=Outer Diameter of main shaft
Manuals
Turbo L1 966mm/38.03in L2 774mm/30.47in D 75mm/2.95in
N/A L1 967mm/38.07 L2 782mm/30.79 OD 57mm/2.24in
Auto (N/A only)
L1 913mm/35.94 L2 733mm/28.86in OD 57mm/2.24in
Blueprint Info for end bolts
Tightening Torque: 49~59N·m (5.0~6.0 m-kg, 36~43 ft-ln)
On the troubleshooting guide, all Remedy's are Replace
This is info from Yamaguchi book (1985)
"The single-piece propeller shaft has conventional universal joints at either end, and is 782mm )30.8in) in length and has an outer diameter of 75mm (2.95in) for the normally aspirated manual transmission moderl, and 733mm (28.9in) and 57mm (2.24in) for the automatic. For the Turbo, the propeller shaft is a tuve-in-tube construction; an outer tube on the transmission side encloses an innertube on the final drive side, the two connected by three pressed-in and bonded rubber rngs on the tube walls. There is a mechanical stopper in case the rubber rings hould fail. The shaft is 774mm (30.7in) long and has outer and inner tueb diameters of 74mm (2.95in) and 62.5mm (2.46in)"
I just copied and typed all of that by hand so I hope to god it helps at least one person :\
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LongDuck
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
12
10-07-15 08:12 PM