2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

altternator wiring on a t2 swap

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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 11:36 AM
  #26  
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HAILERS
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
That brings up another issue. I was talking about a USA EM harness in a USA non turbo car.

There is a JDM, EM harness that was meant for a LEFT hand drive car and it does not have the wiper wires and from what I've read, is a little more difficult to install than a normal EM harness.

Basically all the above more or less proves beyond doubt, that when installing a turbo engine in a non turbo car, it's easier/BEST to keep the non turbo EM harness and avoid the problem listed above.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 01:33 PM
  #27  
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hahaha ok so Im in the middle of putting an 88 t2 into my 88 NA car. I cant seem to even find the alternator plug at all. Is it not on the engine wireing harness? Is this what the whole problem is? I kept the NA harness that goes to the starter and such. (is that the EM harness?) Will that make it eaysier?

Thanks.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 01:48 PM
  #28  
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HAILERS
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The EM harness is the one with fuel injector, bac, afm, boost sensor etc.

On the non turbo car the alternator wires are a part of that EM harness.

On a Turbo EM harness the alternator wires are NOT a part of that harness.

You put a Turbo EM harness in a non turbo car, so there is now no alternator wires at all.

You need to run two new wires to the Turbo EM harness you just installed. Somewhere above I THINK I told how.....sorta.

On a stock turbo car, the alternator wires are a part of the engine harness. The harness that runs on the left side of the engine. Don't look to see if they accidently put one there on your non turbo car. Aint' there.

Rotary Ressurection has a site. On that site I understand he tells how to install the alternator wires on a swap b/t series four non turbo to turbo.

Basically, from the hip, you find the plug called X-15, and find on the EM side of the plug, the two wires directly one above the other. One is brown/red and the other brown/black (possibly pure black). You cut those two wires back about three to four inches from the plug. You deadend those two wires ends that are not a part of the plug.

Then you still have a brown/red and brown/black stub wire still in the plug. YOu splice two new wires to them and run them to your alternator. Pay attention which wire you connect to which pin on the back of the alternator. It makes a difference.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 02:03 PM
  #29  
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"You also have to do a bit of rewiring for this to work in the 87-88 cars (in the 89-91's it is a basic plug and play).

You have to run 2 wires from the back of the alternator inside the cabin by the ecu. Compare your old NA wiring harness and trace the wires that used to be at the alternator back to the plug they ended at (one of the 2 large orange ones inside the car). These are black and white wires. Now compare these pin positions with the current harness. Cut (or remove and re-pin) whatever wires are presently there (theyre not doing anything important) and splice in your 2 newly run wires. Be sure to cut and insulate those old wires, so you're not backfeeding through some other circuit. This keeps all your idiot lights from staying on all the time (this is normally an indication of a failed alternator, and the car thinks it has failed because the wiring was missing).

You also have to run 1 wire about 6 inches. On your old NA harness, find the yellow/red temp sensor wire that went under the oil filter. Now find it's pinout position on the orange plug that was inside the car. Compare this to the turbo harness' plug. Now trace the same wire on the turbo harness in the car. Cut or re-pin that wire on the *engine side* of the turbo harness, and jumper it over to the wire that is in the pin position the old NA harness had the wire at. Be sure to cut this old wire and insulate it to prevent backfeeding through that circuit. Now your dash temperature gauge will work like stock."


Could someone reword that second paragraph for me? I dont quite understand what is going on. I think its just the wording. Its only a 6 inch wire I need to move/cut/solder?? confused. thanks.

Last edited by TweakGames; Mar 16, 2007 at 02:22 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 04:06 PM
  #30  
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Is he just saying

Find the pin where you NA temp sensor plugged into and run you t2's temp sensor to that pin?
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 05:34 PM
  #31  
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When you put the Turbo EM harness in the car, you should have noticed two large multipin plugs that connected to the Front harness. They are located up and to the right in the passengers foot well.

One plug is a fifteen pin plug. It has a reference designator called X-15. You can see that in the jpgs I attached. The other plug is a 13pin plug called X-16.

The water themp sensor wire is colord Yellow with a White stripe. Y/W

The Turbo EM harness has it in the plug called X-15,

The non turbo EM harness has it in the plug called X-16.

So.

You need to move the YW wire out of your turbo EM harness plug X-15, and move it to the Turbo EM harness plug called X-16 , so the signal will go to the meter in the dash.

Oh. Sorry. There's already a Light green/black wire where you need to move the YW to. So? Remove the Light green/black wire so you can put it there.

God. Why do folk use turbo EM harness on non turbo cars? Got me. Shoulda stuck with the non turbo harness. Easier.

See the jpgs attached and the ( ) around some colors. That means everywhere you see a ( ) there is a wire in that location that is NOT there on a non turbo car. Something like that.

There's only three wire moves that need to be made in all. Forget the rest. Two wires for the alternator and one for the water temp sensor.
Attached Thumbnails altternator wiring on a t2 swap-water.jpg   altternator wiring on a t2 swap-water2.jpg  

Last edited by HAILERS; Mar 16, 2007 at 05:55 PM.
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