MastrChase

[86 N/A w/ 87 TII + ecu + harness. N/A gauges, stock boost & intercooler, 3" turboback] *Searched*

Alright, my car's been throwing a 3 beep then pause error, plus on the idiot cluster all the lights on the top row are on (6) and 3 on bottom and the clock is blank.

3-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of stepping motor signal:
The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses.

I have a feeling there are a few issues. All fuses I've looked at are good.

One known is that speedo cable keeps popping out from the gauge b/c the clip is broken. Not that big of a deal, I just reach under and up and slide it back in.

Also I believe my cluster is dying b/c a full tank of gas reads as 3/4 and the temp is always at 0 and oil pressure is usually around 30 (that one makes me nervous).

The issue I'm a bit stumped on is that my alternator's wire to the cluster is cut (L: white w/ black)... There's a new wire running to the ignition. I've been driving my car around for about a month with no issue, so I've sure my battery is getting recharged, but the gauge is reading something like 12 (which would just be battery).

The my question is how do I run a new wire to the gauge?

I don't see the original wire on the harness anywhere.

Thanks for any help gang

satch

iTrader: (1)

So you finally got the car running. Good for you. What was holding it back from running/starting?

To check the oil pressure just disconect the single wire plug from the oil sender and ground the single wire in the plug w/key to on. The gauge needle should rise to the top. Ground the wire just long enough to check the gauge needle movement then immediately unground the wire. If the needle moves to the top then the gauge should be good. If so then clean the contact in the single wire plug and apply some dielectric grease and plug back in. If that doesn't help then you can remove the sender and screw in a mechanical oil pressure gauge to test the pressure. If the pressure reads properly while idling and reving the engine then you'll need to replace the sending unit.

EDIT:
The fuel gauge probably is inaccurate do to the sending unit in the gas tank being stuck or at the end of its life. Grounding the W/G wire at the connector to the fuel pump ( I know you've been there before!) will cause the needle to rise to the top.

Do the idiot lights always stay on or not. They should light up just when the key is to on and then shut off when the car is started. What is the color of the other wire at the voltage gauge? (you stated there were two wires that should connect to its back. And what do you mean there's a new wire running to the ignition?

MastrChase

I mean that when my friend put in the TII wiring harness (he thought this was the problem before finding the unplugged wire WHICH IS WHY IT WASN'T STARTING! I replied to my original thread), the TII harness apparently dosn't have the alternator wires on it. So he ran a fresh wire from the (R)black w/ white, through the left side of the firewall to.... (the ecu?) and the other wire (L)white w/ black is cut and left hanging. That one goes to the gauge (and could stop the beeping?).

I put in and FD fuel pump You think its bad?

I'll check the rest out as I have time. Starting with the oil pressure.

I don't know if its related, but my MPG is horrrible. 10 mpg combined

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the speedometer cable pops out that would stop the odometer from working I think, which would affect your mileage calculations possibly.

As far as the FD pump you'll find out once you ground the necesary wire to test the gauge itself.

W/B wire goes to the CPU from the alternator. B/W wire goes to the Engine fuse in the interior fuse box. Sometimes the stock gauge is not the most accurate so why not take the reading from the alternator itself. Red lead of the volt meter to the B+ terminal (bolted to side of alternator) and black lead of the volt meter to the negative battery post and take the reading while the engine is running and compare it to the value from the gauge to see if it matches or not. And do the idiot lights turn off when they are supposed to?

MastrChase

Oooo... to the interior engine fuse. Sweet, thats a lot easier. Think you could rustle up a pic?

So I've been reading a lot again.... and I just figured out why I have such shitty gas mileage... My pulsation dampener is leaking like mad! Arg@! I put my apartment's fire extinguisher in my car! lol.

Hazard15301

iTrader: (5)

A picture of the engine fuse? The fusebox is under the driver's side kick panel, if you don't have a fuse box cover, start at the bottom left, count four up and one to the right. 15 amp fuse (should be anyway).

Ph34r

Mine does the same thing... but only when the RPMs get below 800ish... then they will stay on until the car hits 3500ish.

Plus I have a buzzer going off when I am idling... I think it's a bad ground... but I'm not sure.

Not to hijack the thread, but if anyone has ideas on this. I am sure we both would appreciate an answer.

Jason

MastrChase

No no, I'm trying to figure out how to run that wire to the fuse.

satch

iTrader: (1)

So I've been reading a lot again.... and I just figured out why I have such shitty gas mileage... My pulsation dampener is leaking like mad! Arg@! I put my apartment's fire extinguisher in my car! lol.[/QUOTE

I don't have any pics but that fuse powers up the Main relay in addition to the Circuit Opening relay. It wouldn't be too hard to run another wire to that particular fuse. You might be able to get away with tapping into the B/W wire at either of these components.

Please fix the fuel leak ASAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

MastrChase

I can't find a replacement dampener anywhere.... I'll have to have it shipped and drive with a fire extinguisher in my car. Maybe I can bypass it...

Can I just run a wire directly to the fuse?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Did you just swap in the pump or the whole assembly?
The fuel level sending units of the FC and FD work at different ohm levels and an FD sending unit will give a wonky reading when paired with a FC gauge.

This is however a piddling issue compared to a leaking fuel rail damper.

MastrChase

I realized I have a spare PD on my other engine. A buddy's going to run me up to it. Now I just have to figure out how to swap it.

No, I only swapped out the pump, not the whole thing. Soo... that's throwing my reading off?

As for the alternator wire, can I tap in the same colored wire running up to the fuse box?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Nope! All wires at the engine fuse box are constant power and the B/W wire for the alternator needs to be switched power from one of the IG1 fuses and preferably one that has 15 amps so that narrows it down. If need be remove the Engine fuse and take a short piece of wire and place it into the fuse terminal so it comes into contact with the metal tangs and then place the Engine fuse back into place trying to keep the wire connected to the metal. Then take a multimeter and see if the small wire has voltage on it at the other end w/key to on. If it does then you know you can take a wire B/W from the alternator and do the same.

MastrChase

Ok... what the Twighligh Zone is going on here.... After my initial shock of leaking gas and my buddy taking me to get my spare PD, I get back and can't make my car leak fuel! It stopped! Arg. But I took the UIM off, well, moved it a bit (not fully disconnected). The PD looked ok and so did the fuel lines. I drove it around to make sure it wasn't going to leak again.. and i t didn't.

I drove to a friends house and watched some TV. When I got back into my car I noticed two incredible things. 1) the beeping stopped! and 2) my fuel gauge was all the way full! Which still isn't right b/c I'd gone 80miles on a full take. Then the gauge drifted back down.

W. T. F.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The fuel sender is not operating properly and that's all there is to it.

You could jumper the fuel check connector w/key to on if you wanted to observe for leaks. A visual check of the Pulsation Damper won't tell you anything.

And have you noticed no more HAILERS?

MastrChase

Is Hailers lurking? O_o

How do I jumper the fuel check connector?

satch

iTrader: (1)

How do I jumper the fuel check connector?

Blasphemous! Look at your old multi page thread. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/86-tii-swap-wont-start-but-really-wants-887302/page7/

HAILERS was banned for a few days for a comment he made on a particular thread and in response to the temp ban he got overly peeved and hasn't shown up since. Not good.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I have...that guy was a treasure.
I completely missed the incident that banned him and wondered what happened.
In fact, it crossed my mind that you were just his new incarnation.

satch

iTrader: (1)

My name is, my name is, my name is Peter Proud.

MastrChase

So when I was messing with my car, trying to track down gremlins, I must have found it. I remembered I pulled every fuse behind the driver side kick panel and then tapped up and exposed wire (that was brown and looked like a ground) under the hood in the harness. One of both of those must have stopped the beeping! Hallelujah.

MastrChase

So I should run a wire to a 15amp fuse at the inside kick panel?

Also, how do I test my oil sending unit? I feel this is important, lol.

Clarification, I'm still leaking gas but I can't find it. It leaking down the drivers side. There's not much over there...

Ideas?

satch

iTrader: (1)

1). Needs to go to the "Engine fuse," 15 amps in the interior fuse box.

2). Did you test to see if the gauge works by grounding the wire that runs to the sending unit? If you did and the gauge works properly did you clean the plug to the sending unit so it's free of dirt and oil? I'm not familiar with how to test the sending unit itself. If you removed the unit and used a manual gauge to test the presure and it checked out okay and the cleaning of the plug did not help at all then the sending unit likely needs replacement.

3). Hoses leading to and from the fuel filter as they connect to the actual filter. The hoses, inbound and outbound, which connects to the hard lines at the engine. As an example, after the car has been used place a bucket with paper toweling underneath the fuel filter. If the paper is wet or stained/dried up then you know where it's coming from.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Geez, Ari... Just call my *** and I'll come over with the FSMs and we'll hack it out.