1991rx7vert

I currently have a N/A transmission in my 91 vert...I have done the motor swap already...and have been using the N/A transmission for now. I installed a ACT heavy duty clutch plate and street disc...now Im going to install the TII transmission and rear end...The questin is do I need to replace the preassure plate too or just the clutch disc?? is the spine/shaft the same size on the N/A transmission as the TII...because the set up I bought in the beginning I knew that I would be swapping the transmission. I KNow that I must change the flywheel to a TII. But I think that the clutch kit would stay the same (its rated at 422 torque capacity).now I think that I just want to upgrade the street disc to a 6 puck.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

you need to replace the flywheel, slave cylinder, pressure plate, cluth disc, starter and ....driveshaft. all with t2 units.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

well on a n/a the clutch disk is smaller then a turbo one.

225mm compared to 230mm??

arghx

iTrader: (3)

too much time and trouble for a non turbo that isn't raced.

You do know that 6 puck clutches don't last right? They're not designed to last, they're designed to hold torque consistently. You might get 10k out of one if you're lucky.

1991rx7vert

i currently have a 13b-re swapped in...well when i go to ACT's web site and it givesme the same part numbers for both clutch kits NA and turbo...

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Then ACT's site has the wrong info. NA and turbo flywheels & clutches are completely different diameters. Everything SirCygnus listed, you need.

that one guy300

so the TII flywheel will bolt right up to the N/A engine? someone has already done this swap in my car, and i went ahead and bolted up the N/A flywheel to the TII clutch... it works, but slips horribly when cold and slips only a little bit when fully warmed up, shut off for 10 mins (or however long it takes to get gas), and restarted.

rx7racerca

iTrader: (1)

The TII clutch is a larger diameter than the NA one (by 1" iirc); your clutch disk's inner edge is probably only contacting the outer part of the friction surface on the NA flywheel, hence the slipping. You will likely be quickly destroying your new clutch disc, wearing a ridge into the portion contacting the flywheel, as well as wearing the flywheel unevenly (probably not a big deal, since you need to swap it for the correct part). If using a factory TII flywheel, it should match your engine series, as the counterweight is built in and matched to the mass of the rotors (lighter in S5 than S4; I'm not sure about your RE, but probably needs to be a RE flywheel), or if you go aftermarket flywheel, use the counterweight from the same-series automatic and bolt it on.

Not to be a ***** and rub your nose in it, but didn't you test the fit of the disk and flywheel before installing? I always assume either I or the parts supplier might have got the wrong part. It's happened, for example with fwd driveaxle replacements - where one of the pair was correct, the other was for another model/year (different spline pattern on the outer end). Test fitting and double or triple checking can avoid a lot PITA redoing the job.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

And TII Diff with TII half shafts unless you get the TII to N/A Driveshaft from Mazdatrix.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

The flywheels bolt onto the engine in the same way, but the N/A flywheel is a stepped design and the TII flywheel is not stepped. You should not use one clutch on the other.

Spectrum24x

I'm finishing this exact swap right now. Pm me any questions or concerns and I can tell you what I've learned.

I Am curious tho everyone says you need a new clutch slave cylinder, which I replaced but when I bought it there was no option for NA or T2

fcgotem

the clutch slave is the same.

javrosario

iTrader: (5)

Clutch slave is not the same for TII and NA. On the other hand, the clutch master is the same.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

javrosario is correct. The clutch slave cylinder is different between TII and N/A.

01Racing

I am doing the same swap right now on my race car. You need to know what year T2 tranny you are installing. There is a different clutch fork and release bearing for the 86-88, most will tell you that any will work THEY ARE DEAD WRONG. It has cost us hours of messing around and a brand new ACT HD Press plate to find out. The release bearing on the 86-88 Turbo is about 3.5 mm thinner than the one ACT supplies, and the clutch fork is totally different as well.

that one guy300

well, when i put the engine into the car, i figured i was gonna put the original clutch back on... ( the one from the NA) and did, tried to stab it onto the transmission... no go, transmission shaft too big, so i had to install the clutch that came with the blown engine, while doing this, it never dawned on me, wrong flywheel...and i sent the junk engine to the crusher, so im kinda f***ked on an easy fix. i just got the new clutch to put back in it, and realized, i need the turbo flywheel because they dont have the small diameter clutch with large diameter spline hole... so i need the flywheel and wanted to make sure it'd mount onto an N/A engine

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

The TII flywheel IS stepped. I have an 87TII and had mine resurfaced.

that one guy300

what do you mean it is stepped? as in the contact surface for the clutch? or the hole where ya bolt it up?... just to be clear...

farberio

iTrader: (7)

http://www.mazdatrix.com/flywheel.htm
Look at the pic of the N/A flywheel vs the TII.

Do you see how the N/A has the clutch surface area recessed into the flywheel and the TII does not (or is really really small)?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

TII flywheels have the clutch surface raised slightly from rest of it. So it does have a "step", but it's not the same as what you find on an NA flywheel.

S4 TII:



And getting the correct clutch slave is pretty important. The mounting points on the transmissions are completely different: