I'm finishing up the final prototype of an Altenator Relocation Bracket, which will relocate the alternator down on the driver's side (LHD cars) of the engine. Not only does it move the weight down, it also cleans up the top of the engine (particularly good for those running IDA-style manifolds or anything else that leaves the alternator sticking up like a sore thumb) and permits use of an electric water pump, like the one from Meziere.

Right now, I am gauging interest in a production run. I'd like to make 25 of them and to justify it, I need to sell at least ten off the bat. It looks like I have more than enough interest from the 1st gen guys [Link to other thread], but the more the merrier. I have checked the prototype on a 2nd gen and it cleared fine. The bracket mounts to where the Power Steering and AC pump bracket goes, so don't bother saying you're interested if you wish to retain either of those luxuries.

Projected price will be between $50 and $85. The part requires laser cutting, bending, drilling, tapping, lathing and welding, so it's more complex than it seems at first glance. Currently, I'm planning to use a stock-looking flat bar tensioner, but I'm also planning to offer an upgraded double rod end turnbuckle adjuster, which should be about a $15 option.

I only have the following two pictures of the prototype so far, but I'll get some with it mounted on a car soon. All I need to hear now is your interest in buying one at the price mentioned, how important a double rod end (heim, rose, etc) turnbuckle adjuster is to you, and any concerns you may have. Don't bother asking if we can change it so you can keep your AC or PS...some day perhaps but, right now, were only doing this for real men.




--
Blake Qualley
Pineapple Racing

 

looks like a nice piece and a good idea i like it alot hope it go's good for you

 

Got any pictures installed on an FC? Will we have to use different length belts than OEM alt/wp? Any issues with fitting an FD alt with this bracket?

EDIT: I'm assuming it will clear greddy IC pipes?

 

As I said, I will get pictures of it installed in a vehicle soon. The 2nd gen NA I tested it on was just in the shop briefly yesterday, so it was simply a matter of seeing that there were no major problems (it clears the oil cooler line). I've also tried it on a rotary truck and a Turbo 12A, but no TII so far and certainly nothing trying to squeeze intercooler piping through that area. The only cars I'm certain it won't fit are the FD (different front cover stud locations) and the 83-85 12A with air/water oil cooler (damn oil line curls up around the front cover stud). Everything else fits the engine fine but there are a hundred variables to consider. Frankly, the first batch is basically a beta-test, so we can get feedback on fitment. There should be no reason it wouldn't fit, but my imagination does not extend to all the weird setups people run.

FD alternator should work fine. Anything that can bolt to the stock waterpump location will fit this bracket.

 

You've never driven a black FC in the middle of August in Virginia, AC is not an option, it's a neccesity. (I'm talking 95+ everyday with high humidity). It is a nice looking design.

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

Just some constructive feedback... Make these brackets so they replace just the AC and you'll sell more. It's not justifyable to remove a good highend (read: S5 t2 speed variable P/S) Power steering pump just to get the Alt moved over there. I would *LOVE* it just because I could get better access to the top of the engine, even if I was running the stock manifolds. Replacing Vacuum tubing, adjusting the TPS, etc would be a breeze.

Package it with an extension for the wiring and test it with an FD alt. I think compatibility is key here.

 

...or, we could just sell this one and use the feedback to develop a new version at twice the price with three times the features, a couple years in the future. This mod is not for everyone and I think it would be a mistake to re-design it to suit every taste before at least putting a basic version out there.

As for the power steering, I owned a S5 GTU-S for many years and the variable power steering was not all that great, comparred to a manual rack or even a power rack run manually (sans pump). It's great for a lazy daily driver, but not ideal for performance. Just my opinion. Just a few weeks ago, I spent a long weekend driving a friend's 3-rotor 88 Anniersary TII with a manually operated power rack and found it remarkably nice to drive...you would tend to think a taller-ratio (fewer turns-to-lock) steering box would be hell to drive around town, but it was if anything easier than my unassisted-steering 1st gen (perhaps because it's rack-and-pinion; not recirculating ball).

Anyway, point taken. Some time in the future, we will see if there is a market to develop different versions to allow either PS or AC. Just not right away.

 

No, but I have driven a Peripheral Port 13B 1st gen with no interior or exhaust heat shield 8,000 miles from Portland, Oregon to Gainsville, Florida and back. It was so hot in the car that, when one of my ear plugs fell out (105dB at 50ft!), it instantly melted into the tranny tunnel. I used to keep myself awake by brushing my right leg against the tunnel until the searing pain brought me back to alertness...much better than NoDoze!

Again, point taken, but we shall start off with this basic version before trying to accomodate all the other interests. If this one sells well, I will be doubly-motivated to think about revisiting the design.

 

Okay, I took some pictures on the 12A Turbo in the shop. Hopefully, this will give you a better idea of how it will look. When I get another chance to mount it on an FC, I'll snap some more pics. It will basically look the same.

 

i want one... i have a tii but if it mounts low like the 12a one then i could run the fmic pipes over it.

make em.. sell me one. i know another guy local that wants one too... hell more like 4 people that want one.

 

How much space is there between the sparkplugs and the alt.?

Looks like it should clear greddy intercooler pipes, but I think a pic with one installed in an FC would be better for people to tell if it will fit there application.

Should try to get a pic with a fd alt. installed also. The fd alt is larger than the fc's.

No power steering or A/C here, so I don't have to worry about that..

 

Plenty of room for the sparkplugs. I will try to get a picture of one in an FC, but the picture will look pretty much the same...the front cover and front side plate are basically the same. I did my initial fitment on an S4 NA motor in my Rotary Truck. The rotary truck has the least amount of room, due to the frame rail being right there. When I put it on the FB and FC, I was astonished how much extra room they have! We have a bunch of FD alternators floating around the shop, so it shoudn't be a problem checking the fitment. Again, I doubt there is any problem because the mounting boss is the same and the only variable is how far out you'd have to tilt it (the FBs and FCs have tons of room, as I already mentioned). But, we shall see.

 

when can u get one?

 

One what? FC for pictures or FD alt to verify fitment? I don't have an FC with an engine in it handy though, as I said, I did the other day and it fit nicely. I just looked at an FD alternator and it does not appear to pose a problem of any kind.

 

You made a post on a public forum looking for feedback I provided it. I still disagree with you on a manual rack. I've driven Sans pump, and manual rack, the S5 T2 variable p/s rack for a street driven auto-x car it's my preferred setup.

 

Looks great man!

Whould there be any issue of the belt clearing the stock FC fan shroud?

James

 

Absolutely not. Mazda mounted PS and AC pumps in that location and used the forward crank pulley sheaves...the alternator would be even further back, using the first pulley sheave.

 

New pictures. This is on my Rotary Truck project.

 

what kind of spark plug wires are those, and where can i get them?

 

I'm down for one. When are you going to sell them?

 

Another question. With the angle of the belt going around the crank pulley will the belt slip? Looks like it has less contact with the pulley.

 

Just stock NGKs! What makes them look so good is that I sprayed them down with Brakeclean and wiped them off with a cloth. I couldn't believe how nice those dingy thing looked after a little TLC. In the past, I've bough the plug wires from Rotary Performance (RX7.COM) in Garland, Texas.

 

Soon. I am tempted to make an initial offering of ten, which would essentially be a "public beta test". That would give me some quick feedback from people who are so anxious that they've got to have one NOW. I don't anticipate problems, but it might be the safe route *and* help out some of the folks who don't care if, say, the finish is just Krylon instead of powdercoating. Regardless, this project is on the fast-track. That does not mean it will be done tomorrow, but more like by the end of the month.

 

The main pulley does not have as much contact with the belt as it would otherwise, but still more than the water pump would have with the top-mounted alternator. Slippage happens at the weakest link, so to speak, and that weak link is about twice as strong as it was before. In other words, while the pulley most likely to slip has changed, the contact of the pulley most likely to slip has effectively doubled. Therefore, belt slippage is almost certainly reduced. Anyway, the cool thing about making the main pulley more likely to slip than the WP is that any slippage can be "seen" with the voltmeter! If it slips, you will know, rather than have to wait for the car to overheat. Also, you can still run a double-sheave alt pulley (not my personal favorite) or a "yoohoo" belt between the main and WP pulleys (3L220). But, I doubt either will be necessary.