Alternator output issue?
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Alternator output issue?
For those who saw my earlier post, the Check Engine light has been resolved.
There is still the alternator issue. I started it to see if the codes cleared, and decided to see what the alternator was producing this morning. Last night, @ idle it made 15.16V, this morning it made 15.80V. According to Icemark's FAQ sticky, electronics start frying at 15V. My question is if it's too risky to let it warm-up and do a real voltage test @2500 rpm, or if it's safe to drive to AutoZone and have them test the alternator. The regulator is still plugged in and last time I checked alternator output a couple of weeks ago, it was right in the 14.5-ish range.
There is still the alternator issue. I started it to see if the codes cleared, and decided to see what the alternator was producing this morning. Last night, @ idle it made 15.16V, this morning it made 15.80V. According to Icemark's FAQ sticky, electronics start frying at 15V. My question is if it's too risky to let it warm-up and do a real voltage test @2500 rpm, or if it's safe to drive to AutoZone and have them test the alternator. The regulator is still plugged in and last time I checked alternator output a couple of weeks ago, it was right in the 14.5-ish range.
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For those who saw my earlier post, the Check Engine light has been resolved.
There is still the alternator issue. I started it to see if the codes cleared, and decided to see what the alternator was producing this morning. Last night, @ idle it made 15.16V, this morning it made 15.80V. According to Icemark's FAQ sticky, electronics start frying at 15V. My question is if it's too risky to let it warm-up and do a real voltage test @2500 rpm, or if it's safe to drive to AutoZone and have them test the alternator. The regulator is still plugged in and last time I checked alternator output a couple of weeks ago, it was right in the 14.5-ish range.
There is still the alternator issue. I started it to see if the codes cleared, and decided to see what the alternator was producing this morning. Last night, @ idle it made 15.16V, this morning it made 15.80V. According to Icemark's FAQ sticky, electronics start frying at 15V. My question is if it's too risky to let it warm-up and do a real voltage test @2500 rpm, or if it's safe to drive to AutoZone and have them test the alternator. The regulator is still plugged in and last time I checked alternator output a couple of weeks ago, it was right in the 14.5-ish range.
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Chances are the voltage regulartor, internal to the alternator, is going south. You're putting your electrical system at risk by running the car but if you must then I would suggest turning on all accessories such as the radio, interior lights, headlights and A/C-heater to bring down the voltage. By the way you're describing your voltage output at the alternator indicates it needs a new regulator or just replace the whole thing. Taking it to a place to diagnose it is really a futile attempt because you know it's failing already. Be careful with what kind of replacement you get for most are garbage and won't last long. Napa makes probably the best units for replacements and the more expensive the better.
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Usually you will get a lifetime warranty perhaps on these units but do you want to risk replacing the alternator every few months or so. Seems like it's more trouble than anything. I have not a clue about SG Imports. If you search for other posts regarding alternator replacement you will find that Napa has the most reliable of the remanufactured alternators. There are no guarantees of course but past experience is a good thing to live by.
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Napa has different levels of Alternators available.
This is their best one which is basically a new Alternator with a used casing. I worked for Napa for 4 years so I can state that their Alternators are way better than most of the other chain stores out there.
Qty
Alternator - Remfd - Premium, 70 Amp
Product Line: NAPA Power Supreme Electrical
Part Number: RAY 138473
Price:
Price
Core
Unit
:
:
:
124.00
49.50
Each
Features & Benefits Completely Remanufactured w/ The Most New Top Quality Parts Available; Electronics - Heavy Duty For Longer Service Life; Bearings - 100% New, Premium Quality; Computer Tested Under Loaded, On-Car Simulated Conditions; Brushes - 100% New, Premium Quality
Features and Benefits PDF
Warranty Warrantied To Be Free Of Defects In Workmanship & Materials. This Limited Lifetime Warranty Is Not Transferable. Light Trucks/Vans With Diesel Engines Under 8000 lbs. GVW Warranty Is TWO (2) Years.
Warranty PDF
Attributes Alternator Amperage : 70 Amp
Alternator Clock Position : 5:00
Pulley Type : 1 Groove
Voltage Regulator Type : Internal
This is their best one which is basically a new Alternator with a used casing. I worked for Napa for 4 years so I can state that their Alternators are way better than most of the other chain stores out there.
Qty
Alternator - Remfd - Premium, 70 Amp
Product Line: NAPA Power Supreme Electrical
Part Number: RAY 138473
Price:
Price
Core
Unit
:
:
:
124.00
49.50
Each
Features & Benefits Completely Remanufactured w/ The Most New Top Quality Parts Available; Electronics - Heavy Duty For Longer Service Life; Bearings - 100% New, Premium Quality; Computer Tested Under Loaded, On-Car Simulated Conditions; Brushes - 100% New, Premium Quality
Features and Benefits PDF
Warranty Warrantied To Be Free Of Defects In Workmanship & Materials. This Limited Lifetime Warranty Is Not Transferable. Light Trucks/Vans With Diesel Engines Under 8000 lbs. GVW Warranty Is TWO (2) Years.
Warranty PDF
Attributes Alternator Amperage : 70 Amp
Alternator Clock Position : 5:00
Pulley Type : 1 Groove
Voltage Regulator Type : Internal
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$124 + core? I called the NAPA close by and he said $190, + core, + $10 shipping from Atlanta (closest unit in-stock)
Is there any way I can replace/repair the regulator, without having to buy a new generator? I know it's not like replacing brushes, but...
Is there any way I can replace/repair the regulator, without having to buy a new generator? I know it's not like replacing brushes, but...
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I was talking with my Auto Tech teacher at WCC and mentioned the cost to replace the alternator, and he suggested I have it rebuilt locally. (regulator, brushes, bearings) What's the viability of having it rebuilt? The place is Robert Walter's Starters and Alternators.
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