Anybody had the OMP hole welded shut? Could this possibly affect the front plate by warpage? JB weld?

 

Might the OMP hole on the s5 be to large to fill with JB weld, or JB weld putty

 

Why not just do a block off plate? Quicker and easier than welding or puttying

 

Maybe a little freeze plug.

 

I have a block off plateand its leaking oil. I broke a bolt off inside the top bolt closest to the firewall. It's to hard to get to with a drill. I don't wanna change the front plate, I never plan on going back to OMP. If I did, I would change the front plate anyways to go to a mechanical pump.

I've also tried everything I can do to seal the block off plate with only 2 holes, silicone, paper gaskets, orings, still leaks.

 

Sorry I should have been more specific. It's for an s5. I'm not out there right now, but I believe it's an oval hole.

 

The only GOOD way of fixing it is taking the front cover off, because you need that area SPOTLESS for JB to adhere, which will be almost impossible with it on the car

What you could try, is after its been sitting for a day, take some ether, and douse that area (leave your plate on there) wipe it down the best that you can, and push in RTV in every nook and cranny you can find, and let it sit. You might get lucky, will just be a messy clean up next rebuild time

 

What about welding the hole shut?

 

With the front cover on the engine still? I'd be afraid of doing more damage than good, like cooking gaskets, sparks damaging wires and hoses etc

 

only you know your welding skill..

if it was me and the bolts broke and i couldn't get them out... i would weld em. even block assembled, but it's too easy pull the front cover .. i can get one out without dropping the pan... done it..

as far as the weld go, you know it's alum, so A/c tig is going to be the best method to control heat. Tigging aluminum is like doing spot welds back to back, you dont make a puddle and drag it. most people here won't know this.. that being said, add 6-8 spots at a time and then let it sit for 20 mins and do 6-8 more. i could do it without warping but i have a nice squarewave machine with a power pulser, i welded a damn motorcycle gas tank!

 

Why not weld a nut to the remaining portion of the bolt that you snapped off and then just screw the broken piece out like normal. The cover is aluminum so you can fill the nut right up to the top without worrying if its going to stick to the aluminum and the heat that penetrates into the broken portion of bolt will help loosen up any rust/galvanic corrosion that caused you to break the fastener in the first place.

 

The bolt is broken off inside the hole, nothing sticking out. Will this still work?

 

How deep is it broken off inside? I've done this a number of times with a stud broken off below the surface of an aluminum assembly. The weld wire is not going to stick to the aluminum so you can fill up the hole to the top with the welder and then stick a nut over the top and fill up the nut too. If you've never done this before you might end up going through a few nuts as they may snap off if the weld penetration into the broken stud is poor. Obviously I take no responsibility if you end up burning your car to the ground trying this out, but I've used this method to extract stubborn snapped exhaust studs and broken off bleeder screws in aluminum calipers without breaking out a drill.