Alternatives for S5 OMP Block Off Plate
Anybody had the OMP hole welded shut? Could this possibly affect the front plate by warpage? JB weld?
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Might the OMP hole on the s5 be to large to fill with JB weld, or JB weld putty
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Why not just do a block off plate? Quicker and easier than welding or puttying
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Maybe a little freeze plug.
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Originally Posted by lduley
(Post 11902437)
Why not just do a block off plate? Quicker and easier than welding or puttying
I've also tried everything I can do to seal the block off plate with only 2 holes, silicone, paper gaskets, orings, still leaks. |
Originally Posted by clokker
(Post 11902454)
Maybe a little freeze plug.
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The only GOOD way of fixing it is taking the front cover off, because you need that area SPOTLESS for JB to adhere, which will be almost impossible with it on the car
What you could try, is after its been sitting for a day, take some ether, and douse that area (leave your plate on there) wipe it down the best that you can, and push in RTV in every nook and cranny you can find, and let it sit. You might get lucky, will just be a messy clean up next rebuild time |
Originally Posted by lduley
(Post 11902633)
The only GOOD way of fixing it is taking the front cover off, because you need that area SPOTLESS for JB to adhere, which will be almost impossible with it on the car
What you could try, is after its been sitting for a day, take some ether, and douse that area (leave your plate on there) wipe it down the best that you can, and push in RTV in every nook and cranny you can find, and let it sit. You might get lucky, will just be a messy clean up next rebuild time |
With the front cover on the engine still? I'd be afraid of doing more damage than good, like cooking gaskets, sparks damaging wires and hoses etc
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Originally Posted by Fuhnortoner
(Post 11903143)
What about welding the hole shut?
if it was me and the bolts broke and i couldn't get them out... i would weld em. even block assembled, but it's too easy pull the front cover .. i can get one out without dropping the pan... done it.. as far as the weld go, you know it's alum, so A/c tig is going to be the best method to control heat. Tigging aluminum is like doing spot welds back to back, you dont make a puddle and drag it. most people here won't know this.. that being said, add 6-8 spots at a time and then let it sit for 20 mins and do 6-8 more. i could do it without warping but i have a nice squarewave machine with a power pulser, i welded a damn motorcycle gas tank! |
Why not weld a nut to the remaining portion of the bolt that you snapped off and then just screw the broken piece out like normal. The cover is aluminum so you can fill the nut right up to the top without worrying if its going to stick to the aluminum and the heat that penetrates into the broken portion of bolt will help loosen up any rust/galvanic corrosion that caused you to break the fastener in the first place.
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Originally Posted by Schmitty
(Post 11903413)
Why not weld a nut to the remaining portion of the bolt that you snapped off and then just screw the broken piece out like normal. The cover is aluminum so you can fill the nut right up to the top without worrying if its going to stick to the aluminum and the heat that penetrates into the broken portion of bolt will help loosen up any rust/galvanic corrosion that caused you to break the fastener in the first place.
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Originally Posted by Fuhnortoner
(Post 11903886)
The bolt is broken off inside the hole, nothing sticking out. Will this still work?
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