ok the past week this buzzer has started to annoy the hell out of me. first i thought it was the coolant becuase the resivore was empty but after i filled it the buzzer still came back. it would shut off when i turned or got on it a little bit. but it would just come on at random times. my warning light thing is a pos and barley works. but yesterday i took a look at the oil pressure and it shot above 110 lbs. i was like wtf?!?!?! so i checked it out. the car was off when i checked it the first time and it said full. didnt look either. then i started it and checked twice and it was bone dry. then.... i revved it up a little and it showed oil so i really dont know what the problem is. probably just needs a new filter and some fresh oil.. by the way its n/a

 

kill it w/ a stick

or get in car drive out here and let me look at it like i said!

 

you need to determine which buzzer is going off. if the 7 is an 88 or newer, with the eninge cold, check the coolant level at the radiator. if it is pre 88, check it at the cap on the thermostat housing. finally remove, inspect, and test the water level sensor. check the oil when the engine is warm. the oil pressure gauges seem to be problematic at times. you may want to check the wiring to the sender to see if it has any breaks or crackes on the sheething. it could potentially be grounding out, causing a short. you may want to check the condition of the oil poressure sender as well. finally, the last thing to check will be the gauge itself.

 

Ok..the buzzer?..it is Telling you something.(besides Get a MANUAL!)..you Should Really Check your FLUIDS!..the Buzzer is most likely Going off because your Coolant is LOW...you don't just Pour Coolant into the Reservoir and call it a Day.Check the Damn Rad..and Check the OIL..the Car depends on the oil to Lubricate the INSIDE of the engine.If there is no Oil,you are just asking for a rebuild..(just like running the Car when it Overheats,you Can't do that to a Rotary Engine..It Will Fugg it up!..Not like a piston Engine where you can ride around all Yaer on a Quart of oil and a glass of water in the Rad!).

 

Definitely check the rad and the coolant level sensor. My bet is on a faulty connection on the coolant level sender.

 

it could be your thermostat not opening up, change it.

 

the buzzer does not indicate a faulty thermostat. if you do choose to change your thermostat, replace it with an oem mazda unit only.

 

The buzzer means three things:

1. Overrev
2. Low oil
3. Low coolant

It will be number 2 or three.

Make sure there are no air bubbles around the coolant level sender. If it still buzzes, disconnect the sender and ground the harness wire to the chassis. Buzzer stopped? Then the sender is faulty.

The oil level sender is the opposite. Low oil level will ground it. If disconnecting the wire stops the buzzer and you are SURE the oil level is OK, then the sender is bad.

 

I had the same buzzer happen a couple weeks ago and the low coolant idiot light came on, but my car also overheated. Ended up being a bad thermostat.

If your thermostat and coolant level are good, you may want to check the water pump to make sure the coolant is flowing.

 

I took a look at it last night the coolant was definitely full. Did a oil and filter change. So far he said no buzzer I am pretty sure it was low on oil but didn't check it before I drained it. I think I said that a couple times before though hint hint MYKE!

Ok need to add something though. Evidently the previous owner managed to put trailing plugs in the car that DON'T belong and they are too short to get a socket over now. What would be the best plan of action to get these out? I gave him a new set of leading plugs I had around as well as the nology hot wires that I wasn't going to use on my car and he said it runs a lot better but I have some decent used trailing plugs that are likely better then his trailing one's (based on the condition of the leading plugs) I would like to swap them in but getting the old one's out could be quite an issue.

 

Slowly remove radiator cap or the cap on the metal filler neck (near the end of a 2 inch wide hose) while the car is cold. Use a rag just in case. Stop and let the pressure out if it hisses. Fill the coolant there. The reservoir is outside the system and it will take time before the coolant gets sucked in that way. Filling through the radiator cap fills the system directly, but if the car is warm the coolant will be hot and under pressure. Not a good time to remove the radiator cap. As long as you keep the reservoir from running dry again you typically won't need to add coolant this way in the future.

The oil gauge is probably faulty. Search the forums for ways to fix it. I hear it often comes from oil dripped on the outside of the sending unit (i.e., the oil pressure sensor). You can verify with an external oil pressure gauge and see if they match when the car's gauge shoots up.

 

I checked his coolant when it was cold and it was still gushing out when I took the cap off. I am 90% sure the oil was low I just didn't check it before the oil change.