Allowable Rotor Housing warpage
Allowable Rotor Housing warpage
How warped can a rotor housing be and still usable?
I'm not asking what the FSM/Haynes says is acceptable.
I'm asking guys that do rebuilds (sometimes on a budget) what their experiences are...
Because I've got two severely overheated S5 TII housings with about 40k miles that pass visual inspection but are warped..
Thanks.
I'm not asking what the FSM/Haynes says is acceptable.
I'm asking guys that do rebuilds (sometimes on a budget) what their experiences are...
Because I've got two severely overheated S5 TII housings with about 40k miles that pass visual inspection but are warped..
Thanks.
Ahahahahaha.. This is probably true... But I've got four engines worth of parts and I am planning on tossing together an engine.. Yes, tossing together.
lol..
So, how warped can they be before it is impossible for the coolant seals to not leak? lol
lol..
So, how warped can they be before it is impossible for the coolant seals to not leak? lol
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
find a way to see how flat the trochoid surface is. if the rotor housings got narrow, the wear surface is sagging.
you know sometimes parts are bad, because they are bad
you know sometimes parts are bad, because they are bad
find a way to see how flat the trochoid surface is. if the rotor housings got narrow, the wear surface is sagging.
you know sometimes parts are bad, because they are bad
you know sometimes parts are bad, because they are bad
yes, the FSM specs are a good reference. if you have room to work with you can knock down the high spots with a sanding block but don't go much below the minimum thickness.
there is no measure for warpage anyways, it is a measure of thickness variation for the rotor housings. if the variation is too large then there will be small gaps between the irons and the housings, as well the engine may become untrued say if all your rotor housings were thin at the top and thick at the bottom.
what answer were you looking for? every builder has their own specs, some have no specs at all and just use a housing if it looks ok.
there is no measure for warpage anyways, it is a measure of thickness variation for the rotor housings. if the variation is too large then there will be small gaps between the irons and the housings, as well the engine may become untrued say if all your rotor housings were thin at the top and thick at the bottom.
what answer were you looking for? every builder has their own specs, some have no specs at all and just use a housing if it looks ok.
yes, the FSM specs are a good reference. if you have room to work with you can knock down the high spots with a sanding block but don't go much below the minimum thickness.
there is no measure for warpage anyways, it is a measure of thickness variation for the rotor housings. if the variation is too large then there will be small gaps between the irons and the housings, as well the engine may become untrued say if all your rotor housings were thin at the top and thick at the bottom.
what answer were you looking for? every builder has their own specs, some have no specs at all and just use a housing if it looks ok.
there is no measure for warpage anyways, it is a measure of thickness variation for the rotor housings. if the variation is too large then there will be small gaps between the irons and the housings, as well the engine may become untrued say if all your rotor housings were thin at the top and thick at the bottom.
what answer were you looking for? every builder has their own specs, some have no specs at all and just use a housing if it looks ok.
So as long as the width is within .06mm all the way around it will work?
For some reason I was searching for number that the housings width needed be near...
Now I understand...
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Alright... So I measured all my rotor housings and they are all within .06mm of each other. Around 80.15-80.25. I understand that is .1 but I'm refering to 4 different sets of housings..
i think you misunderstand the concept. the concept is to measure each rotor housing at 4 or more spots around the edge of the same housing.
and i think your caliper is a little bit off. even brand new housings aren't that thick. but it should still tell you whether they are within .06mm around each housing.
and i think your caliper is a little bit off. even brand new housings aren't that thick. but it should still tell you whether they are within .06mm around each housing.
i think you misunderstand the concept. the concept is to measure each rotor housing at 4 or more spots around the edge of the same housing.
and i think your caliper is a little bit off. even brand new housings aren't that thick. but it should still tell you whether they are within .06mm around each housing.
and i think your caliper is a little bit off. even brand new housings aren't that thick. but it should still tell you whether they are within .06mm around each housing.
About the caliper being off, that is possible as it came from harbor freight... lol. I'm going to order a new one after some reasearch on which ones are the most trusted/reliable. Though, as you said, it is still showing all four points for each housing to be within .06mm.
Thanks.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
I measured at the spots shown in the FSM.
About the caliper being off, that is possible as it came from harbor freight... lol. I'm going to order a new one after some reasearch on which ones are the most trusted/reliable. Though, as you said, it is still showing all four points for each housing to be within .06mm.
Thanks.
About the caliper being off, that is possible as it came from harbor freight... lol. I'm going to order a new one after some reasearch on which ones are the most trusted/reliable. Though, as you said, it is still showing all four points for each housing to be within .06mm.
Thanks.
The housings I measured are ones I had up on the shelf for awhile and were clean.
However, this will be my first rebuild so I really didn't want to spend money on new parts if I didn't HAVE to have them.. (hard parts)..
However, this will be my first rebuild so I really didn't want to spend money on new parts if I didn't HAVE to have them.. (hard parts)..
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,800
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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
If you're at 80.15 to 80.25 those housings are junk IMO and any engine you try and build with them is going to have issues.
Those housings are junk. Brand new rotor housings have quite a tight tolerance....
Last edited by Turblown; Dec 17, 2011 at 11:48 PM.
The measurement at the top of the housing is the 'control' and should be right around 80.00mm. The other three measurements down by the spark plug area should have a variance of +/- 0.06mm.
If you're at 80.15 to 80.25 those housings are junk IMO and any engine you try and build with them is going to have issues.
If you're at 80.15 to 80.25 those housings are junk IMO and any engine you try and build with them is going to have issues.
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