SevenDreamz

Whuz up guys well u all know i have a 88 GXL Turbo....my mods are

S5 Jspec T2 Engine Freshly Rebuilt
S5 Turbo Rebuilt
Full 3 1/8in Turboback Exhaust
Cosmo 20B Fuel Pump
780cc Secondaries
K&N Air Filter
Fully Ported Wastegate on S5 Turbo
Manual Boost Controller 12-13psi
Stage 3 Exedy Clutch
ACT 11.5lb Lightweight flywheel
S-AFC 2 Tuned
Knights Sports FCD
All emissions removed
Removed p/s and a/c
OMP blocked and running Idemitsu Premix
Running Idemitsu Oil
AWR Competition Motor Mounts
AWR Rear End Mount
Fluidyne racing Radiator
New Fuel Pump
Fuel Cutoff Switch
New Aftermarket 15in Electric Fan
Full Defi Link Guage System w/ Controller (Boost, Air/Fuel, Oil Press., Oil Temp., Gas Press., Exh. temp, and Water Temp)
(I dont think i forgot any more mods...?)

But either way...my question is about this water injection kit on ebay...i may be able to scrape up $200 bucks alot faster than the amount of money it will take to get a FMIC setup...but will this kit make my car alot "safer" as far as detonation goes...I have shared my setup b4 and everyone told me i am PLENTY GOOD until about 12psi....but if I got this water injection kit would i be alot safer....i will normally run the car at around 9 psi...but if i go to the track i would raise the boost to 12-13psi...

HERE IS THE WATER INJECTION KIT....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cooli...QQcmdZViewItem

ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED GUYS...I JUST DEFINITELY DO NOT WANT WHAT HAPPENED TO ME THE LAST GO AROUND....

Funkspectrum

iTrader: (5)

It could...but I'd still recommend going with an FMIC.....

RXn407

It sounds like with the performance mods that you have that the fmic is the next best spot for your buck and I would just say that then after that if you wanted to invest in the h20 inj. butto me for you to go after that before that seems backwards. good luck-erik

SevenDreamz

any one else have any suggestions....

Bukwild

The owner of cooling mist is a 3rd gen owner friend of mine. I suggest you get the angled injectors and a dual stage setup thats more expensive. I am running a 2 tank setup with water and alcohol. Water will be set to kick in at 5lbs of boost and alcohol come on at 10lbs. I will try this setup and a few others and test the temp differences with digital guage they sell. Anyways drop him a lne and talk to him about the setup. He runs 20lbs on his stock intercooler & twins and never has a problem overheating during track days

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

At 12psi on the stock turbo, you really won't need it, so long as those 780's are dialed in, especially if you're only doing it at the track, just shut the car off inbetween runs to give the intercooler a chance to cool off, or throw some ice on it between runs so it doesn't stay heatsoaked, but even then, I doubt 12psi would be much trouble for the top mount on the stock turbo.

RETed

So what does the water injection kit do?

You're running all of that...with the stock ECU?


-Ted

gingenhagen

that guy is on the forum. Goes by the name "coolingmist" i believe. Can also check his website www.coolingmist.com

Icemark

see I agree with Ted... he is using the stock ECU, but ripped out all the emissions and band aided it with a SAFC and a FCD...(and I don't get what the fuel pump he is using he has two listed)... replacing the ECU should be his next priority, not a $250 water injection system.

And I am not convinced water injection really does much for a rotary. yeah it helps piston engines just fine, but on a rotary, it is just another band aid (and a weak one at that). hell you could just hook up a vac line stick it into a 1 gal tank of water and a rotary engine would suck it through with no harm... what makes you think that water injection trickling in, is going to do anything???

Bukwild

it should cool your intake charge after the intercooler or some use alcohol and don't even use a intercooler. I plan to log all the temp differences and do a write up and post.

SevenDreamz

Oh sorry Im using a Cosmo 20B Fuel Pump....so I have some people say...that this water injection would be worth it and others are saying that it wont...basically do you guys just think i should start saving for a standalone or FMIC first...I am so nervous and I just want everything to go well...cuz I really fear I might have to sell the whole car if this engine "POPS"...i dont have the time or the money to go through all this again...my car has over $10,000 put into it...and im only in college...not all of the $10,000 is in engine mods...if anyone is wondering....but what would u guys recommend...and thanks for your help so far...

Sacker90

On stock turbo and 780cc secondaries I wouldn't worry too much...save up for a just a remapped stock ecu...no real need for a standalone

SevenDreamz

How much are remapped ECU's...anyone know...or is it a company i just send mine off to and they remap it...? Of course a standalone would be the better choice if i planned on upping the power in the future correct...?

AusTexRex

I'd go with a standalone. You'll be able to tune the car much more effectively with it. Depending on which one you get you can sell a few of your piggy backs to help pay for it as they will no longer be necessary.

SevenDreamz

I guess i will start saving for that standalone then...but BUKWILD definitley keep me posted on your water injection system and its results b/c that seems like it would certainly help me...what standalone are most of you guys using...Haltechs...?

SureShot

I'm in about the same situation.
I used to run the TMIC at 11PSI with 93 octane.
That set up gave 220 net HP on a G-tech.
The RX-7 is my daily driver, and I currently have it de-tuned for 87 octane at 10 PSI.

If the urge for a little more power (maybe 250) becomes irresistible, then water injection is my first choice.

If 250 HP is too low for your possible future plans, then the FMIC & standalone are where you’re headed.

SevenDreamz

U are referring to 220hp to the rear wheels correct Sureshot, b/c 220hp at the flywheel w/ ur mods and something is majorly wrong...which Gtech do u have....the first one or the 2nd one...? Yeah in the next year or two i want 500rwhp at about 12psi...but i plan to have a 20B put into this car w/ mybe a T66 Turbo....the guy that is doing my work...has a 20B in his FD and i believe its a T66 turbo and he dynoed at 500rwhp at 12psi...and that is a fully street driven vehicle, great idle, and everything...but ridiculously so FAST that its not even funny....500rwhp at 12psi....damn and that turbo can boost alot higher than that...one day i will be there but my little 230-240rwhp for now will do me just fine...

AusTexRex

I'm a fan of the E6k. Theres not much of a useful (for FCs) difference between the k and the x that I know of. Other than that I believe some people have been running Microtech and power FC.

SevenDreamz

Thanks Aus....i might look into one of the Haltechs i hear that they are easier to work with....but i have heard alot of good things about Microtech as well....i wish these damn things were cheaper...does anyone on this forum have a 20B in a FC....?

Bukwild

Once you go standalone you can run any motor you want. I thought you were short on cash? How are you going to do a 10k 20b swap short on cash? Also I would love to see a dyno chart of 500 on 12lbs. I would doubt this right away because a t-66 is not in its sweet spot until it gets higher boost level. You might want to start checking this guys creds before you hand your car over to him for a 20b swap.

SevenDreamz

Buk i might have the turbo wrong...but he is very credible....thats why i said maybe a T66....but whatever turbo it is...its ridiculous...it made 497rwhp at 11psi....on that turbo and a built 20B...and the 20B is definitely down the road...i dont have near enuff money for that right now...thats why i said my 230-240rwhp is plenty for me right now....and its a company performing all my work...they are VERY GOOD....ROTORSPORTS RACING...what are you putting down at the rear wheels Bukwild....just curious...from your mod list looks like you should be pretty darn powerful....

Falcoms

The Megasquirt EMS is only about $500 installed and tuned, but it is a dyi job, plus you need to do tuning and all to get it even able to drive on the street or idle even. No real base maps from what I've seen thus far. Kindly, though, the whole stock ignition system and EFI system works with it, no sweat. This is the route I'm taking this winter, just FYI...

SevenDreamz

$500 does not sound to bad at all....how hard to tune that though...i dont hv experience w/ tuning yet so i might just let the shop perform that...im just really nervous about blowing my car up...