MattB

well today i drove my car to work as usual without a problem...and then i left work around 7 as usual, and on my way home i noticed the car bucking, and hesitating...so i got off the highway, and pulled over to do a quick check of the engine bay. i didnt see anything wrong so i continued home. when i got here i pulled into the driveway and the car starting idling low and weird and just sounded like it was gonna die...along with all this the car would randomly backfire (at idle, and on the highway)

so i pulled it into the garage to start workin on it and i got it in and shut it off...then my dad came out to see what was wrong so i started the car to show him...it started, then died...so i tried again...started...and died...i took the UIM off and put new grommets on the injectors (mine were old and solid, then i bolted it all back on...the injectors can spin if i push kinda hard on them...is that ok? as far as i knew it was...

so now my car still just starts and dies...and i have no idea why...there was a hesitation that was always before the secondaries kicked in...but at 3600rpm and above it pulled hard as usual...(rtek 1.7 they kick in at 3600)

so i am thinking its either my primary injectors, or maybe a ground wire? or...???

anyone?

Thanks
-Matt

Go48

iTrader: (7)

Make sure you plugged in your AFM connector when you reassembled your intake.

MattB

oh trust me...its plugged in...it started when i didnt even touch anything...so its not like i forgot to plug something in...that was one of the first things i checked cause i have heard of people doing that all too often

anyone else?

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

how long does it run before it dies? my friends 88 n/a will start and run for 8-10secnds then die when the afm isnt connected. Maby you have bad connections?

how does it run when it starts?

MattB

i have never had a problem with the AFM before...i think this may be multiple problems though...i put a new motor in and have had idle problems since then...the BAC is all the way closed (and it was idling at 1200 before) so ill open that up some...and the idle mixture screw probably needs to be played with...

as for the hesitation...to me that sounds like ground wires...but ill find out later cause i gotta get it to run first.

if anyone else has any bright ideas...let me know...


Thanks
-Matt

MattB

ok, well i think i may have figured it all out...how does this sound?

my idle problems are caused by the vac lines on my turbo that go to the wastegate (they have no clamps on them)

and as for the hesitations im not completely sure yet...im gonna guess grounds...it is a slight hesitation from 2000 to 3000, then really bad to 3500 or 3600 then its smooth from there up...

ill go throw a few new grounds wires in, and put clamps on the vac lines then ill let you all know...not that anyone is paying attention to this...its more of a way for me to talk to myself without feeling like im talking to myself...


Thanks
-Matt

royaltrex7

i read and well all i can say is you should just change out the problem vacuum lines because under ideal conditions you shouldn't need clamps

MattB

found the problem...one of my caps popped off...the bigger one on the intercooler...

Matt

royaltrex7

good to know you fixed it

MattB

thanks