AmT_T

iTrader: (11)

Hey Everyone.

I have searched for info on subframe builds and cannot seem to find a solid thread. I am debating on doing a rebuild over the winter ie. urethane control arm bushings, dtss illiminator etc. (what needs to be done). My car is pushing 170,000kms all stock rear end with new shocks and springs approx 35,000kms ago. My 7 is stiff as hell over bumps but I hear lots of squeaks and rattles coming from the rear and feels as if theres some play in the back too, I still have to jack the car and check for play. What I would like to know is at how many kms/miles have you rebuilt the subframe, what exactly was replaced and how was the outcome.

Thanks in advance.

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

this would generate some good response. i was thinking the same thing. i hope we get some good feedback

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

See signature.

Rear subframe overhauled at 145k miles. I was doing a TII drivetrain swap, so while everything was out, might as well put new bushings in. Even better, I never wanted to do it again so therefore I tried to replace everything with solid delrin or similar bushings.

Noise is fine with me, the biggest thing that makes noise are the rear diff mounts, but just the sound of gears meshing : ) If you don't like mechanical sounds solid bushings are not for you.

Outcome: I would never buy individual camber adjusters from the "better known" companies. Mines snapped at my first autocross after the rebuild. Stick with the stock individual links. Besides that, I went with too much spring rate (12k/10k), I would definitely be investing in properly valved shocks and spring combo the next time I replace shocks.

need RX7

iTrader: (4)

I'm kinda/sorta doing it. I dropped the subframe yesterday, I'm planning on installing delrin subframe and diff mounts, OEM control arm bushings, and individual camber adjusters, and I'll likely do wheel bearings and a 5-lug swap. Someday I'll get around to refining my half-assed build thread and posting it here.

rnz520

iTrader: (10)

Do spherical bearings in the rear control arms, worth the money, but they do increase noise even more. While you are down there do a pinion snubber.
My car has the following:
1.-MMR Spherical Bearings
2.-Delrin Rear Differential Bushings
3.-Delrin Subframe Bushings
4.-MMR Individual Camber Adjusters (no problems as of yet)
5.-MMR DTSS Eliminators
6.-Super Now Toe Rods
7.-Energy Suspension Pinion Snubber (bump stop)

AmT_T

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the input guys, keep it coming. I don't really want to sacrifice comfort, I want it to be quiet (like stock) but a little bit firmer. I find my ride is already stiff enough for me, I just want to tighten up the feel. I am considering camber and toe adjustment. What options are there? (lets load this thread with info and archive it)

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

If you want like stock ride quality and not much noise then buy all new stock bushings and leave it at that.

Here's my info:

MMR Delrin Diff mounts= noisy gear whiny hiss noise.
MMR Delrin Subframe mounts= extra vibration and noise into the whole chassis.
MMR Delrin DTSS Eliminators= almost no percievable difference in noise. The car doesn't handle as well but is more predictable for drifting (What I use it for)

I run a stock front diff mount. My diff doesn't move no need for a pinion snubber so far on my car. This is on a 1989 GTU with a S5 NA engine, NA trans, and a T2 diff and axles.

MMR Delrin shifter bushing=although unrelated it works really well and the shifter is nice and solid

GregW

87TII ~280hp, ~85k on it but after getting to a "proper" ride height I had a clunking in the rear when I would get on it or let off hard. I used mazda comp stuff as well as doing the tranny mounts. I did hafta do some adjusting with a pry bar on the rear pan to get the subframe links
from touching the body making it so I could hear everyting the diff was doing.

Im more than happy with the noise/performance level of the mazda comp stuff. I do some pretty long drives and the diff droning on off on off on off the whole time drove me batty.

We beat it stupid at a hillclimb recently, I mean it just got whaled on, no clunks and I can no longer blame times on the car. With the durizzas its more than enough car.....(for now). It gives me a sort of dimensia feeling getting full on it when its sticking in a tight turn. oh, did not end up needing the pinion snubber.

I recently bought a floor style tranny jack. I could not imagine doing it with just a floor jack without good help. Another tip, start doping up the nuts and bolts with penatrant now, it will make it way easy later.

It pained me a bit putting the jack stands on the pinch welds I spent a few days on getting perfect, I just could not see anywhere else I felt safe with since you cant put them under the subframe mounts since your taking it out.

Good luck, its a great project with instant gratification.

need RX7

iTrader: (4)

If you remove the muffler heatshields, you'll expose 2 very strong 'frame rails' (for lack of a better term), they are a great spot to put jackstands. You'll have to stack up some wood or use a cinder block to get the jackstand up high enough, though. I used a cinder block and a piece of wood, equaling 9" to get the rear end even with the front (car is up on 4 jack stands right now). A good way to save those pinch welds.

GregW

Cant bealive I missed that, thanks for the tip, forums are good for somethin

TheAbsence

iTrader: (19)

You could always get MazdaComp diff mounts and leave it at that.