Please help me. I had removed my airpump a year ago because the tension bolt had snapped. It was idling a little rough but otherwise was ok. I just installed a new airpump today and after inspecting my work decided to start it. It ran really rough for about 20 seconds, I revved it up to 3000 and it cut off. Now it will not start. Everything is hooked up correctly. . . please give me some advise.

 

Sounds pretty weird.

Do you have a cat? If so isn't it bad to run a cat w/out the air pump?

Anyways the only thing I can think of is the air pump isnt spinning freely but that'd just cause the belt to slip I'd think.

 

The airpump is new, undamaged. I have unplugged the hose from the airpump into the ACV and it is still dead. Everything was working machanically. . . Maybe its fuel/air related due to the sudden change in the ACV?

 

Oh yeah the air pump doesn't just pump air into the cats right? I have no clue I'm just tryin to help ya pin point it btw.

hmm wait would where the air pump gets its air from (on the airbox) cause a vaccum leak if open?

 

Might try and clear the ecu, not sure if that would be effected or not. Take off the negative and positive batter terminal and touch them together, then reconnect them. Make sure your ACV sensors are plugged in still and all your grounds are connected. Other then that, I'm not sure 100% what it could be. I do know that it doesn't always dump air into your exhaust. Most of the time it vents it into the atmosphere. I forgot when it actually uses it.

 

and touch them together? I just read yesterday to clear the ecu you disconnect the batt for 5 seconds.

Also I know thats true as my automatic computer looses its shift memory when the batt is disconnected for alil bit (Which is super annoying as it'll go up to like 5k rpm and not shift for like half a min till it relearns how I drive haha) doubt it'd hurt connecting them together though.

Oh isn't a 88 a s4? The s5 uses the air pump for 5 & 6 activation.

 

Yea, pretty sure he's trying to pass emissions from his signature. Pretty much just look your whole engine bay over for anything out of order. Also, did you mess with your TPS at all? Or the idle screw on top of your engine?

And when you say it wont start, does it just crank? It might be flooded. Remove the EGI fuses and turn it over(with gas pedal fully pressed down) for 10-15 seconds, reconnect fuses, and try to start again.

And yea, Miata ppl say just undo the negative terminal and hold the brakes for 5 seconds, and I've heard ppl say to touch them together. Pretty much the same thing I guess.

 

Theres where I unplugged the hose to see if the forced induction was the cause, it was still dead.



I have a stock airbox and all those hoses are correct





Belt tension is good, it spins fine.


Is there any chance the new addition could have screwed the fuel settings and flooded it? It has never flooded before and has 50,000 on a new engine. I drove it for 6 hours strait just 2 days ago and it was perfect. . . add air pump. . . dead.

 

You got a s5, push the pedal to the ground and crank it, that'll disable the injectors till you let go

 

In the first picture you have the pressure sensors line off. Was that off when you tried to start it? Did you accidently leave the afm's plug off?

 

Looks like your missing the vacuum hose from the nipple above your ACV to your pressure sensor. Is that still disconnected?

And a 88 isn't S5, it's an S4.

 

I have not messed with the tps, I had adjusted the idle screw to smooth out the kinks from removing the airpump in the first place. Although I don't see that killing it, just making it run rough after until I adjusted it. I tried the de-flooding procedure and that didn't seem to help any. It cranks fine, I hear compression. . . It just doesn't seem to fire at all. I disconnecting the negative for 5 seconds but did not hold the brakes. . . I'll try that now.

 

Yeah I had to disconnect that to get to the hose. Its back on.

 

Consider it severly flooded for unknown reasons and deflood it. When it starts again, make sure it stays running til it gets hot, before you shut it down or work on it.

AFM plug is on then.

 

Yea, just take out your EGI Fuses(both) and crank your car for a good 30 seconds or so. Just to make sure. Or with a friend, take out the EGI INJ fuse, crank it for 30 seconds, after 30 seconds, and while still cranking, have your friend plug the EGI fuse back in and if it starts to start, then it was flooded. Other then that, I'm out of ideas, sorry.

 

I pulled the EGI INJ fuse and tried that. . . guess what ?

The EGI INJ fuse is blown. . . I'm guessing that is whats causing everything. Do I have to go to the dealer to get one? or can autozone get them?

 

Use the retractor fuse for the egi, if it blows again then you got some sort of issue with your electrical now

Well you got a s5 right? On mine the EGI and retractor are both 30a

Nah you don't need to go to the dealer their standard fuses as far as I know :/

l4nc3r, on s5's you don't need to pull the egi to deflood, they added a deflooded mechanism all you do is WOT the throttle and it disables the injectors (or fuel pump, not sure) during cranking. Another thing you can do is just pull the master brake cylinder? vaccum hose thats in between the intake (big hose) it'll allow the engine to suck much more air and it'll blow out the extra fuel (thats what my pa used to do till I told him bout the WOT throttle at crank)

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I'd try using the retractor fuse first, if it blows, go to autozone and see if you can get a box of fuses, I'd suggest to get a box of those tiny standard fuses and a set of fuses that go in the engine bay and keep them in your car, never know when a fuse is gonna blow when your on the road

 

Its an S4, EGI INJ is 40a, I'm hoping the retractor is too, lets see. . .

 

Oh it looked like a S5 to me sorry.

Doubt the retractor is, autozoo should have the fuses you need... or hope they do

 

Retractor is 30a, INJ is 40a.

 

Ok and I was refering to an S5 as I thought his was, I did ask above.



If he did use the retractor fuse, nothing wrong could of happened besides the fuse blowing again if higher than 30a was drawn :P

 

SUCCESS !!!!! . . . I took the retractor fuse, which was 30a (I figured if there was a problem electrical wise the 30a would blow easily), and plugged it in the EGI INJ location and it started right up. Don't ask me why it decided to blow right when I was doing an unrelated repair, but it did. I took it for a spirited drive, got it hot and then readjusted the idle and we are almost there. . . All I needs the pickup tube and I'm 100%.

Thanks everyone, You made my day, couldn't have done it without you.

 

Glad to hear man.

Now take it on a spirited drive to autozone or so and try to get extra 30a, 40a, and 80a fuses.

I wouldn't drive too long with that 30a, it's rated at 40a for a reason, it may not always use that much but you never know I'd hate to be stranded on the road :P

 

Will do, going to pick up a few extra on my way to work. Thanks again cmanns,

 

YaY, glad it was something so small. Wait til one of your grounds become unplugged and you think you blow a rotor >.<