Airflow meter Resistor Mod.
#1
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Airflow meter Resistor Mod.
http://www.mazdamark.com/prod01.htm
i was wonderin wut u guys think bout this? would it cause a n/a motor to deonate? anyone ever tried this before j.w
i was wonderin wut u guys think bout this? would it cause a n/a motor to deonate? anyone ever tried this before j.w
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Well considering Icemark is a Mod here I'm sure he'll chime in :-) I was kinda interested in this as well. I notice my car does seem to run way rich in the heat and it needs to be leaned out something wicked.
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k well i guess ill try it .. theres 2 settings 50degress colder ands 75 .... wut do u guys think woudl be best . also dose anyone knoe where i can take my car to get the tps adjusted. i dont know how to do it and it is not adjuested right... thanks. ill try to install the mod this weekend sumtime if ic an and ill let u know if there really is any difference.
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#8
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i dont know if this will lean you out, but it should help burn more by advancing timing? ive always been confused by this mod.. does anyone know if it also causes the ECU to step up fuel intake? or does it just adjust timing? techs this is your time to shine!
#9
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By tricking the ECU into thinking that the air is cooler by modifiying the signal, the ECU advances timing slighty and provides slightly more air through the BAC.
Both of which lean out the mixture, helping a non turbo make more power.
The other advantage is that Nippondeso air flow meters have a really wide default range, so that for example, at 68* F, the meter can report between 2000 and 3000 ohms of resistance...
well if it really is reading off by 1000 ohms (and that is within the factory operating window) at 69*F it could be telling the ECU that it is really 110*F... which would way rob performance and actually richen up the mixture (less air in and timing back to default- no advance).
So adding a resistor in there helps prevent that warm weather default operation as well.
And everyone knows how much better the FC and FD engines both run on cold days.
Both of which lean out the mixture, helping a non turbo make more power.
The other advantage is that Nippondeso air flow meters have a really wide default range, so that for example, at 68* F, the meter can report between 2000 and 3000 ohms of resistance...
well if it really is reading off by 1000 ohms (and that is within the factory operating window) at 69*F it could be telling the ECU that it is really 110*F... which would way rob performance and actually richen up the mixture (less air in and timing back to default- no advance).
So adding a resistor in there helps prevent that warm weather default operation as well.
And everyone knows how much better the FC and FD engines both run on cold days.
#15
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Originally posted by beefhole
Will this be safe to use when the weather gets cold again (northeast)?
Will this be safe to use when the weather gets cold again (northeast)?
See it tells the ECU that the air coming into the engine is colder than it really is.
#16
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did this today with a 6.5k resistor, noticed a tad bit of power gain in mid range, in the upper powerband.. there is hardly any power left, after 7k power is Zero. Before It used to pull hard till about 7.5k and power slowy drop.. this is a sudden drop in power at 7k. Will try to use a 4k resistor to see if that helps.
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what effect will this have as far as octane req?
and which wire would you hook this to?
have many MANY resistors to try this with so would you guys mind giving me some help here as where to install it?
and which wire would you hook this to?
have many MANY resistors to try this with so would you guys mind giving me some help here as where to install it?
#20
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by rxspeed87
what effect will this have as far as octane req?
and which wire would you hook this to?
have many MANY resistors to try this with so would you guys mind giving me some help here as where to install it?
what effect will this have as far as octane req?
and which wire would you hook this to?
have many MANY resistors to try this with so would you guys mind giving me some help here as where to install it?
#21
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by rs_1101
used 2.2k.. noticed such a strong drop off in power in low range i pulled the damn thing off.
used 2.2k.. noticed such a strong drop off in power in low range i pulled the damn thing off.
Perhaps you put it in the wrong spot or wired it incorrectly
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it went on the green/orange wire on my s4.. it felt like i lost alot of power throughout hte band, especially my low end.. running to rich?
maybe ill try using 6.6k worth of resistor. that should throw it into radical advance right?
maybe ill try using 6.6k worth of resistor. that should throw it into radical advance right?
#25
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Originally posted by Icemark
By tricking the ECU into thinking that the air is cooler by modifiying the signal, the ECU advances timing slighty and provides slightly more air through the BAC.
Both of which lean out the mixture, helping a non turbo make more power.
By tricking the ECU into thinking that the air is cooler by modifiying the signal, the ECU advances timing slighty and provides slightly more air through the BAC.
Both of which lean out the mixture, helping a non turbo make more power.
I don't believe the AFM temp sensor alters ignition timing. Ignition timing must be based on the actual temp of the air entering the engine, which is measured by the air temp sensor in the manifold.
Why would this increase airflow through the BAC? That seems unnecessary. And since the air flowing through the BAC valve is metered by the AFM, increasing this airflow would not change the mixtures, only the idle speed.
And everyone knows how much better the FC and FD engines both run on cold days.
Last edited by NZConvertible; 05-24-04 at 07:44 PM.