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Airflow meter Resistor Mod.

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Old 05-21-04, 12:31 AM
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Airflow meter Resistor Mod.

http://www.mazdamark.com/prod01.htm

i was wonderin wut u guys think bout this? would it cause a n/a motor to deonate? anyone ever tried this before j.w
Old 05-21-04, 12:37 AM
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no I never heard of anyone blowing a motor because of that mod before.N/a's run pig rich I don't think you should have anything to worry about.
Old 05-21-04, 12:38 AM
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Well considering Icemark is a Mod here I'm sure he'll chime in :-) I was kinda interested in this as well. I notice my car does seem to run way rich in the heat and it needs to be leaned out something wicked.
Old 05-21-04, 12:43 AM
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no.

Edit: No.
Old 05-21-04, 12:59 AM
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k well i guess ill try it .. theres 2 settings 50degress colder ands 75 .... wut do u guys think woudl be best . also dose anyone knoe where i can take my car to get the tps adjusted. i dont know how to do it and it is not adjuested right... thanks. ill try to install the mod this weekend sumtime if ic an and ill let u know if there really is any difference.
Old 05-21-04, 01:14 AM
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Is that thing Turbo?

 
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do a search for tps adjustment its really easy all you need is an ohm meter and a flathead screwdriver
Old 05-21-04, 01:17 PM
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guess ill try that.
Old 05-22-04, 03:09 AM
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i dont know if this will lean you out, but it should help burn more by advancing timing? ive always been confused by this mod.. does anyone know if it also causes the ECU to step up fuel intake? or does it just adjust timing? techs this is your time to shine!
Old 05-22-04, 09:51 AM
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By tricking the ECU into thinking that the air is cooler by modifiying the signal, the ECU advances timing slighty and provides slightly more air through the BAC.

Both of which lean out the mixture, helping a non turbo make more power.

The other advantage is that Nippondeso air flow meters have a really wide default range, so that for example, at 68* F, the meter can report between 2000 and 3000 ohms of resistance...

well if it really is reading off by 1000 ohms (and that is within the factory operating window) at 69*F it could be telling the ECU that it is really 110*F... which would way rob performance and actually richen up the mixture (less air in and timing back to default- no advance).

So adding a resistor in there helps prevent that warm weather default operation as well.

And everyone knows how much better the FC and FD engines both run on cold days.
Old 05-22-04, 10:10 AM
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thanks icemark.
Old 05-22-04, 01:10 PM
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thanx. i wanted someone to put that to rest.. so no additional fuel is injected?

is just a 1k ohm resistor?
Old 05-23-04, 12:16 AM
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Actually 4.5K or 7K
Old 05-23-04, 01:21 AM
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Will this be safe to use when the weather gets cold again (northeast)?
Old 05-23-04, 08:09 AM
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edit: way up north
Old 05-23-04, 11:23 AM
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Originally posted by beefhole
Will this be safe to use when the weather gets cold again (northeast)?
works even better cold than warm...

See it tells the ECU that the air coming into the engine is colder than it really is.
Old 05-23-04, 07:02 PM
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did this today with a 6.5k resistor, noticed a tad bit of power gain in mid range, in the upper powerband.. there is hardly any power left, after 7k power is Zero. Before It used to pull hard till about 7.5k and power slowy drop.. this is a sudden drop in power at 7k. Will try to use a 4k resistor to see if that helps.
Old 05-23-04, 07:16 PM
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I just ordered one. Hope it works.
Old 05-23-04, 09:26 PM
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used 2.2k.. noticed such a strong drop off in power in low range i pulled the damn thing off.
Old 05-23-04, 10:29 PM
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what effect will this have as far as octane req?

and which wire would you hook this to?

have many MANY resistors to try this with so would you guys mind giving me some help here as where to install it?
Old 05-23-04, 10:36 PM
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Originally posted by rxspeed87
what effect will this have as far as octane req?

and which wire would you hook this to?

have many MANY resistors to try this with so would you guys mind giving me some help here as where to install it?
http://www.mazdamark.com/resistor_mod_installation.htm
Old 05-23-04, 10:38 PM
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Originally posted by rs_1101
used 2.2k.. noticed such a strong drop off in power in low range i pulled the damn thing off.
2.2K would hardly change a single thing (it would change the reported air temp at best 25*F lower).

Perhaps you put it in the wrong spot or wired it incorrectly
Old 05-23-04, 11:30 PM
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it went on the green/orange wire on my s4.. it felt like i lost alot of power throughout hte band, especially my low end.. running to rich?

maybe ill try using 6.6k worth of resistor. that should throw it into radical advance right?
Old 05-24-04, 02:55 AM
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still curious though will this change the octane req with the advanced timing?

and what difference can I see for gas mileage and power?


real expectations?
Old 05-24-04, 06:33 PM
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for anyone that orded them, before today, they went out today
Old 05-24-04, 07:42 PM
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Originally posted by Icemark
By tricking the ECU into thinking that the air is cooler by modifiying the signal, the ECU advances timing slighty and provides slightly more air through the BAC.

Both of which lean out the mixture, helping a non turbo make more power.
The temp sensor in the AFM is used by the ECU to compensate for changes in air density. If you tell the ECU the air is colder and therefore denser, it will add more fuel to go with the supposedly higher mass airflow. This makes the mixture richer, not leaner.

I don't believe the AFM temp sensor alters ignition timing. Ignition timing must be based on the actual temp of the air entering the engine, which is measured by the air temp sensor in the manifold.

Why would this increase airflow through the BAC? That seems unnecessary. And since the air flowing through the BAC valve is metered by the AFM, increasing this airflow would not change the mixtures, only the idle speed.
And everyone knows how much better the FC and FD engines both run on cold days.
Yeah, but that's because the air is actually colder...


Last edited by NZConvertible; 05-24-04 at 07:44 PM.


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