air pump removed
#1
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air pump removed
just removed the air pump from my 87 turbo 2. i had a few questions about it. is there anything that i need to block off of put afilter on now and i am planning on running no cats so what would be necessary to do this. if i remove the steel line that runs to the main cat do i need to block off where it came from?
#5
You need three block off plates.
1 for the egr
1 for the acv
1 for the tube that goes to the cat.
You will also need new bolts for the block off plates. I bought mine at ACE hardware. Just take the old bolts out and find new ones that are little shorter.
Also buy new gaskets and use some kinds of sealant as well.
Do you want a pic?
1 for the egr
1 for the acv
1 for the tube that goes to the cat.
You will also need new bolts for the block off plates. I bought mine at ACE hardware. Just take the old bolts out and find new ones that are little shorter.
Also buy new gaskets and use some kinds of sealant as well.
Do you want a pic?
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ok well blocked off the egr, acv and am getting a block off plate made for the air pipe to the cat at a machine shopsince i cant find one online. what im wondering is all the hoses that run everywhere can be taken out since there not being used anymore right? also the solenoid on the other side of the engine for either the egr or the acv can be removed too? what do i do with the openings on the front of the surge tank for the vacume lines they obviously cant be left open right?
#11
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...4&d=1170732307
I just did this last month. I left the stock fuel lines in place as well as the rats nest. Just cap off all the lines with little rubber caps. Actually there is a diffrent material that holds up better than heat. The hose that comes from the gas vapor canistor goes back to the TID.
If you still have the s4 manifold then you need to keep the vac line for the actuator. You also might want to get a double pulley for your alternator. But I'm not sure on that one.
I just did this last month. I left the stock fuel lines in place as well as the rats nest. Just cap off all the lines with little rubber caps. Actually there is a diffrent material that holds up better than heat. The hose that comes from the gas vapor canistor goes back to the TID.
If you still have the s4 manifold then you need to keep the vac line for the actuator. You also might want to get a double pulley for your alternator. But I'm not sure on that one.
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ok so i pulled the"rats nest and put all new shiny silicone vacume lines in gas lines. as i was looking through to put the lines back on the surge tank i came across the secondary injector air bleed line. come to find out the idiot that i bought the car from bloked it off for some reason with some homemade block off plate. ive been experiencing flooding problems after about five minutes with this car, could this be it? also, why would someone block it off and what beneifit would it have if any?
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if you look back at your picture of the lines after emmisions removal. theline that is labeled secondary injector air bleeder is blocked off. if you follow that line all the way to the lower intake manifold and you will see a bolt and a piece that has a nipple on it to put the vaccume line on. this is blocked off on my car at the lower intake manifold and at the surge tank to. pretty much eliminating it. why would this be a good thing to do?
#15
I would say run a new vac line! Just like the diagram says. This may be the cause of some issue's you have. Surge tank is for the fuel correct?(little black canister If so then I still have it hooked up to the TID.
While you have the UIM off add new grounding wires.
While you have the UIM off add new grounding wires.
#18
Excellent grounding write-up!
What I did was run wires in sequence making sure I touched every housing. Also the alternator has a ground wire running to the battery.
I think it is something you should do while you are there.
Also replace your fuel pulsation dampner. Expensive but it's a safety mod.
I also painted my UIM. Just the runners though. Make sure you use a new gasket (UIM) when you put it back together. I also cleaned and greased the throttle body components.
What I did was run wires in sequence making sure I touched every housing. Also the alternator has a ground wire running to the battery.
I think it is something you should do while you are there.
Also replace your fuel pulsation dampner. Expensive but it's a safety mod.
I also painted my UIM. Just the runners though. Make sure you use a new gasket (UIM) when you put it back together. I also cleaned and greased the throttle body components.
#19
i tink im going to hav to remove my air pump too, jus wondering wat is it der for??? and its ok to take off right??
thanks, jus new and dont know too much about these cars, yet!! lol
thanks, jus new and dont know too much about these cars, yet!! lol
#20
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The alternator grounds through it's body to the engine. Just making sure the contact points are clean is all that is necessary.
It's unnecessary to run a ground wire to each housing. All that is required is that the stock grounds remain in place and in good condition.
I also cleaned and greased the throttle body components.
#21
The main focus of my write up is to make people aware that stuff like this is pointless.
The alternator grounds through it's body to the engine. Just making sure the contact points are clean is all that is necessary.
It's unnecessary to run a ground wire to each housing. All that is required is that the stock grounds remain in place and in good condition.
The throttle body is designed to operate dry. Grease and oil will simply accumulate dirt which will cause problems down the road.
The alternator grounds through it's body to the engine. Just making sure the contact points are clean is all that is necessary.
It's unnecessary to run a ground wire to each housing. All that is required is that the stock grounds remain in place and in good condition.
The throttle body is designed to operate dry. Grease and oil will simply accumulate dirt which will cause problems down the road.
When I had my throttle body off I just cleaned and greased it a in a few spots a LITTLE BIT. Hearing it squeak when pushing the throttle didn't seem right. Although I could see your point of collecting dust.
#22
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I just did what another member had done to his TII. Judging by looking at his TII and his many years of experience I'm just gonna go by what he's doing. He's helped me rebuild my engine from the ground up and every bolt has been touched on his car (pretty impressive).A few extra feet of wire doesn't cost but 50cent. It may be overkill though.
When I had my throttle body off I just cleaned and greased it a in a few spots a LITTLE BIT. Hearing it squeak when pushing the throttle didn't seem right. Although I could see your point of collecting dust.
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anybody got any more info abouth this secondary injector air bleeder.... its got a bent vaccume nipple on it and it runs to the only bigger size in the back of the surge tank?
#25
You need three block off plates.
1 for the egr
1 for the acv
1 for the tube that goes to the cat.
You will also need new bolts for the block off plates. I bought mine at ACE hardware. Just take the old bolts out and find new ones that are little shorter.
Also buy new gaskets and use some kinds of sealant as well.
Do you want a pic?
1 for the egr
1 for the acv
1 for the tube that goes to the cat.
You will also need new bolts for the block off plates. I bought mine at ACE hardware. Just take the old bolts out and find new ones that are little shorter.
Also buy new gaskets and use some kinds of sealant as well.
Do you want a pic?