2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

air fuel mix

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Old Jan 23, 2002 | 10:41 PM
  #26  
live4boost's Avatar
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AKA ShepFC3
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
There was already a huge discussion on the dyno vs the road tunning in the old single turbo forum. Doesn't anyone recall. That is where I heard that you don't get a very realistic load on the car, and it is better to do both. Oh well.

I would never buy a wide band myself. I would just find a shop with one to tune it, but does anyone tune with the halmeter? Does it work fairly well? They are only sub 200 bux. That is why I ask. I switch between a race pipe and a cat, so I would need to tune it when I switch, so It may be cheaper to go that route.
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Old Jan 24, 2002 | 12:29 AM
  #27  
mazdaspeed7's Avatar
mad scientist
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From: Savannah, GA
Originally posted by Scott 89t2
the dyno is fine, and is alot better then doing a 4th gear pull on the road...

you don't all have to go out and spend $800 on this unit. just find a tuner that has one. and get it tuned for $100 or so.

as for bambam, there is no # because it's not acurrate. for a wide band on a turbo you want to aim for 11.6:1 air/fuel *I think*. this is going from memory.
Scott, that is too rich, even for a turbo. 12.0 is a good, safe ratio for a turbo. 12.5 is great if you can tune good, and want a little extra hp. 11.6 is grossly rich, unless youre running lots of boost.

For a n/a, they WILL make the most power slightly richer than stoich. That goes for any engine, but turbod engines have a habit of popping that lean. So they go richer to be safer. Sacrifice a little power for more safety. N/a's dont pop from leaning out, you just lose lots of power, it feels like hitting a wall. Tune for 14.0 or so on a wideband on a n/a..
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