When converting r12 to R134 how harmful to me/environment will it be to vent it to the atomsphere ? WE have to get rid of the air in the system rigth? if i can do this, do i turn the car on and just turn on full and ac on then wait till no air comes out?

or can i just add the new R134b in there to fill it up( with some r12 left in there)?

 

For your reading pleasure. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/official-its-summer-there-going-million-ac-questions-thread-308839/

 

yea i have read that , mostly just goes back and forth about which one is better.
Still need to know if i can vent it to the atmospher if i wanted to. if i can find a place to take it for free i will. if not i really dont want opay someone to tkae the old stuff out if i dont have too.

hope this interdynamics retrofit kit works and keeps me cold this summer.

 

it is a federal offense to vent R12 in the atmosphere as well as shows a complete lack of regard for anyone but yourself.

If you use R134, you need to have the system perged, and vac'd to remove all traces of the R12. Ideally you would also replace all the O rings and pressure fittings in the system.

 

federal offense huh? wow was not aware of that. I will see if i can find a place around to take it out.


thanks again

 

While you have the system open, replacing the o-rings, you might concider replacing the drier-reciever also. I found both the o-ring kit and the dryer fairly cheap on eBay. With all the other projects I have going, it will probably be Sept. by the time I get mine done.

 

The system must be under a vacuum to remove all the air and moisture, then the 134a or whatever your'e putting in gets charged into the vacuum.
BVA 100 is the oil you will want to use, don't buy the kit, get the fittings, and the refrigerant, and the oil all separate.
Then, if you really want to do your 134a retro right, flush your lines and components with ac flush and compressed air, ( but not the AC compressor, only use clean oil to flush the compressor) and also, you have to remove the evaporator coil to remove the expansion valve from it, (the exp. valve can't be flushed).
Wouldn't hurt to replace all the o-rings.

Or, get your certification online , open book test, $20.
Get a can or 2 of R12 on ebay, I got mine for $12. a can a while back, and charge it up.

I did both the above, hindsight.. would have chose the latter.

 

Whenever the system is opened, the reciever/drier should be changed. I would also recommend replacing all the o-rings. Very cheap to do. I would also suggest replacing the expansion valve. R134a is a higher pressure refrigerant and could, and most likely will not too far down the road, cause the expansion valve to go out. Make sure you get a good vacuum on the system also after changing all the parts. Dont forget you need the service port adapters and caps. Most any auto parts stores will have them. Shoot...even Walmart has them!

And I have no idea what BVA100 is, but you should use Pag oil. It is the industry standard you could say.

I just did the conversion on my Accord about a month ago and did the 7 about 5-6 years ago.

 

Here is some info on the BVA 100 ester oil.

http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...threadid=12613

http://www.autoacforum.com/messagevi...threadid=12677

The PAG oil you mentioned is along with POE, the industry standard for 134a.
When changing from R12 to 134a, if you don't get all the mineral oil out which contains residual R12, the pag oil your'e adding will form globs. Also the PAG oil is very hydroscopic (absorbs moisture). There is a new "double end capped pag" thats supposed to be better.

PAG and POE oil is for 134a.
Mineral oil is for R12.
BVA 100 can be used for either.

There is a lot of info on the ackits forum, There's also another auto ac forum,

http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/

The point I was trying to make in my first reply was, it is easier, and cheaper to keep r12 in the system that was designed for r12, and it will perform better than 134a.
134a is not cheap anymore anyway.