Aftermarket Seat Brackets....
#1
- Make Haste -
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Aftermarket Seat Brackets....
Hey,
i'm wondering, i have a pair of aftermarket seats for my S5 TII, they have universal sliders but no brackets, any idea which brackets i could use and where i could get some?...
i cant find any, i need help....
i'm wondering, i have a pair of aftermarket seats for my S5 TII, they have universal sliders but no brackets, any idea which brackets i could use and where i could get some?...
i cant find any, i need help....
#5
I made mine and they came out fine. goto Home Depot and get some metal bars to cross the OEM sliders that came with the car. Measure and start drilling the holes to the seat bolts. Heres pics of mine in the car mounted. I posted instrustions about 2 years ago.
#7
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Make them... in fact, don't bother trying to use pre-made ones unless they are SPECIFICALLY made for your seat and the FC. Otherwise, you'll be modifying them anyway. I don't have my pictures here, but I'll try to explain as best I can how I made mine.
Keep in mind, these are the components that are keeping your seat secured and keeping you from hitting the wheel or the windshield. In other words, use strong stuff, good thick steel, get it welded good, and do so at your own risk. You accept all liability from these suggestions -- if you kill yourself, it's your own fault.
What you need is a long peice of angled mild steel. This will be used for the main toprails that your new seats bolt to. I use angle because it won't flex like flat bar will. I personally put the "leg" of the angle pointing down so I could get the seat as low as possible. You're going to cut that peice into 4 separate lengths obviously for the 2 sides of each of the 2 seats. You then need some other scrap mild steel to form the "legs" of each of those rails. So you need 8 peices to form the leg between the existing hole in the floorpan to the ends of the 4 toprails. I think I used at LEAST 1/4" mild steel for my legs. Basically those 4 legs are going to sit at a slight angle -- flush against the raised portions of your floor pan (except for the one flat one on the front-left pass side). If you're looking at your floorpan bolt holes, you'll see what I mean. You're constructing something that will look sort of like this: /-----\
One trick is getting the height right -- you'll want the top rails as close to the floorpan as possible, but still giving you room to bolt your seat to it. It's inevitable that your bolt holes will be directly over the raised portion of your floorpan, so you might want to be aware of where all of that ends up. I think when I did all of this, I actually left my top rails like 3 inches too long in either direction and pre-drilled my holes for my seat studs. That way I was able to adjust the forward/backward postion of the seat where I wanted to prior to welding everything up. Then weld your legs to the top rails, lop off the extra length you had on there and you're almost done. Make sure you have good, strong, penetrating welds on all your joints -- I like to do both sides of everything I can get to (and then some).
Only thing left is to drill holes in the legs, test fit, redrill, test fit, bolt everything up and install! Sorry, I know most of this is hard to visualize without pictures, but hopefully it makes at least a little sense...
Keep in mind, these are the components that are keeping your seat secured and keeping you from hitting the wheel or the windshield. In other words, use strong stuff, good thick steel, get it welded good, and do so at your own risk. You accept all liability from these suggestions -- if you kill yourself, it's your own fault.
What you need is a long peice of angled mild steel. This will be used for the main toprails that your new seats bolt to. I use angle because it won't flex like flat bar will. I personally put the "leg" of the angle pointing down so I could get the seat as low as possible. You're going to cut that peice into 4 separate lengths obviously for the 2 sides of each of the 2 seats. You then need some other scrap mild steel to form the "legs" of each of those rails. So you need 8 peices to form the leg between the existing hole in the floorpan to the ends of the 4 toprails. I think I used at LEAST 1/4" mild steel for my legs. Basically those 4 legs are going to sit at a slight angle -- flush against the raised portions of your floor pan (except for the one flat one on the front-left pass side). If you're looking at your floorpan bolt holes, you'll see what I mean. You're constructing something that will look sort of like this: /-----\
One trick is getting the height right -- you'll want the top rails as close to the floorpan as possible, but still giving you room to bolt your seat to it. It's inevitable that your bolt holes will be directly over the raised portion of your floorpan, so you might want to be aware of where all of that ends up. I think when I did all of this, I actually left my top rails like 3 inches too long in either direction and pre-drilled my holes for my seat studs. That way I was able to adjust the forward/backward postion of the seat where I wanted to prior to welding everything up. Then weld your legs to the top rails, lop off the extra length you had on there and you're almost done. Make sure you have good, strong, penetrating welds on all your joints -- I like to do both sides of everything I can get to (and then some).
Only thing left is to drill holes in the legs, test fit, redrill, test fit, bolt everything up and install! Sorry, I know most of this is hard to visualize without pictures, but hopefully it makes at least a little sense...
Last edited by Trav; 09-22-06 at 12:33 PM.
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