greddy egt, bliz ID boost, oil temp, oil pressure, the wideband (does that count as a gauge?), and a coolant temp (all the last are of various makes)

 

I have Greddy gauges also: boost, egt, water temp, fuel pressure. I am ordering another two Greddy oil temp and oil pressure gauges. I removed the stock boost gauge and I installed a stock voltage gauge from an NA FC in the stock location.

 

I have Autometer Sport Comp Boost and Water temp on my A pillar.
I also have an Apexi turbo timer that has voltage and A/F readings.

 

hey..thats the same stereo as mine ..wicked stereo though..and sweet setup mate!!

 

how do people hook up boost gauges on NA cars? what do you have to run it to?

 

Umm...no.

 

Maybe Icemark or someone can correct me if I'm wrong... but:

rich = cool
lean = hot

That a hella lot more sense anyways...

Rich/unburnt fuel would keep the temps lower, wheres completely burnt fuel/leaner would be a higher temp...

EDIT: or SonicRat

 

You would be correct.

 

oh... and vac gauge

 

Yeh, I help myself remember that by "Dump gas on the fire to cool it down!"

 

meh, quite ironic when you look at it that way...

Think if of it in terms of the perfect gas laws... if pressure is high, temp is low...

Gas (liquid) pressure to keep it in liquid state = alot (trust me, chemicaly, its alot)...

Exhaust pressure, to keep it in high volume gas state = FAR less... Take in effect that its actually being compressed though into a low vollume means only higher temps...

Somewhere is a trippling state, where the carbon is turning from liquid to solid to gas constantly and their temps would all be the same... probably only over a nano second in the combustion process...

So gas = lower temps, high pressure, low volume
exhaust = high temps, low pressure, high volume

meh... nm

 

In the case of an N/A, you have to hook your boost gadge up to another car to get it to work .

 

Incorrection. Boost gauges that show vac work fine on an n/a...

 

Using all HKS electronic gauges with peak hold, warning, playback etc etc. in silver with red lettering, 60mm, and illuminates the same color as stock.

They consist of boost which is mounted on the steering column, water & oil temp mounted where the radio used to be, and the timer below those two.

 

was this pic taken as your motor melted? Look at the temps!

I've got autometer boost and AFR (not a wideband AFR, but it's handy to tell if you have a severe problem) and I just got a SPA digital dual water and oil temp gauge. It's a round gauge but has two LCD readouts, pretty easy to read in any lighting conditions, and I find that a digital temp readout is much easier to read quickly than an analog gauge.

 

I have 3 Autometer UltraLite gauges, 2 on the A pillar and 1 next to my SAFCII where the vents used to be. I have A/F Ratio and Nitrous pressure on the A, and Boost next to the AFC (which is odd because I have an N/A, it's left over from my DSM). It's pretty simple stuff, my factory gauges work for now, except my oil pressure is always pegged and my tach is about 500rpm off.

 

I have Boost gauge , water temp gauge , egt gauge and a/f gauge , I think boost and a/f gauge is important to me .
when I tune my car , run lean and very rich will cause higher exhaust temp.

 

For those of you with 3 or more gauges where do you put them other than in front of the warning light cluster, A pillar, and above/below radio. I'm running out of ideas for a place to put them where they are easily visible but not too showy.

EDIT: new setup with SMP cf pod

 

Haha not to worry on my first post with the gauges I said "(gauges installed, but only boost was hooked up. Which is why they are pegged almost all the way over)" I have them all hooked up now. I just had put them in first before hooking them up while I swapped out from grey to blue interior.

My temp at the highest point had gone up to 190. (Had the AC on full while boosting up a long hill)
and EGT highest after a long boosting was 1300.

But I now have it like this:
I like it better this way...

 

That is good as long as you Tee in between the manifold & the orifice pill.

 

Elfking

how was relocating the logicon?

 

Very basic, there was no need to extend the wires from the logicon. The only thing I would recommend is take out your inst cluster so you can reach the plug to remove it. There are two metal ties which hold the wire in place. Its a little over the top since the logicon itself has a plastic clip to hold it in. If you bend the metal ties open and get the logicon loose then next where the logicon is theres a plastic clip which holds the wires in the right place but if you have ever taken the logicon out chances are you broke this already... so you should be able to just move it down no problem.

I have some pictures around here of when I did it, ill see if I can find them.