FrankV702

iTrader: (14)

Hey whats up guys. Okay, so first of all, I have had my haltech since January and have yet to drive it with the Haltech installed. Ive been running into issues with it. I know its not the Haltech but my lack of knowledge with the unit. This was my very first install with a Haltech and I must say its been a challenge. Well after 10 months of not driving my car due to not having the funds to pay someone to proffesionally do the install for me, and my definite lack of knowledge with it, I decided to pull the plug on it and go back to the stock setup, almost.

My mods are as follows....
Stock S5 TII block with all S5 accessories. The car is a S5 NA convertible. It has the TII drivetrain and all.
BNR stage 4 upgrade
HKS FMIC
1680cc secondaries
830cc primaries
All SS lines from the firewall forward
SX adjustable FPR
KG parts fuel rails
walbro 255lph fuel pump
full 3" exhaust system with no cats
My original plans were for 340-360whp with this setup, but now I just want to drive the car. No matter if its making 180hp or 260hp

Well now, Im thinking of going back to the stock fuel rails with an injector combo of 550cc/720cc. Stock FPR and such. My problem lies with the electronics to control the engine. Should I try sourcing out the N370 ECU, boost sensor, AFM and harnss? I was also thinking of going with the N/A S5 ECU upgraded with the Rtek 2.0, Pressure sensor, and harness along with a 20b AFM so that way its still tunable for my mods Im keeping, which are the HKS FMIC, walbro FP, full 3" exhaust, and the BNR stage 4 turbo. I also like the fact that I will be able to keep my OMP removed with the Rtek chip upgrade instead of having it plugged in just hanging on my harness. Anybody have any suggestions, doubts, or anything on going with the S5 N/A Rtek 2.0 ECU decision on the turbo car? Is there anything im overlooking about going this route?? Thanks

arghx

iTrader: (3)

other option is a stock harness with AP engineering power FC or banzai kit. The problem with an s5 is that you can't even get a real turbo Rtek for it. If you don't do a haltech, microtech, or power fc you are pretty much back to an SAFC

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

What is wrong with the haltec?

Edit: NVM, didnt read entire post.

FrankV702

iTrader: (14)

Yea, I'm not a big fan of the S-AFC, but like I said, I just want to drive the car. Ive thought about getting one of those AP engineering FC power FC units or the bonzai unit, but with no one to tune it for a while, id be back at square one. I may go with the S5 TII and just run it all stock. One of my buddies is arranging for Steve Kan to come down to tune his 20b FD so then Id buy the bonzai kit so I can have him tune it for me as well.

I was just thinking of doing the N/A Rtek 2.0 ECU option as well, but Im looking for pros and cons with that option. Is it do-able? Am I overlooking anything? Bad idea? Etc...

Yea, nothing is wrong with the Haltech. I just dont have the knowledge to properly install the unit or tune it enough to get it running right.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

NOOOO!!!

Would you like me to come to Vegas to help you? I've been missing the city since SEMA last year

But whats the main issues? I hate to see someone switching direction after so much hard work and money.

As far as the rest is concerned, if you're going back to stock I would simply get it running BONE stock first and go from there. Making additions become easier once the platform works since....well...it works. All you're oding at that point is adding things as opposed to shaping a platform out of a bunch of purchases.

FrankV702

iTrader: (14)

haha.. I wish man.. Like I said, I have no more money to keep putting into the car. I switched jobs a while ago from a bartender to a banker, and now my pay isnt even close as to what it used to be with my tips.

The problems I'm having with the haltech are; First I couldn't get trailing coils to fire. I swapped out coils and unwrapped the harness, resoldered the wires and bam! had spark. The main problem is the insanely rich mixture im getting when I start the car. Ive seriously replaced the plugs about 30 times (of 4 plugs per set at 5.99 a plug) trying to get it to lean out. It'll start up about 2-3 times on each set of plugs then foul them out. At first, I suspected it to be because I was using an FD map. I just changed around some of the settings that Claudio told me to change around so I can run that map on my car. I then found a map for an FC with a 800/1600cc combo, I loaded that up and reset my timing (which is dead on by the way) and still runs really rich. My AEM wideband only reads down to 10.0 and it was constantly stuck on 10.0 when turned on with the occasional flutter to 10.1-10.2 when I revved it up. I took it around the block with it running like that and it will not boost at all. It feels like when your driving on one rotor. Theres just no power at all. Now once its running itll idle all day with no problem. It revs fine and sounds really good. The compression is over 100 on all faces in both rotors via a checkers compression gauge with the shrader valve removed. I have a video of my engine running that I'll post up once I find it.

antman0408

iTrader: (2)

You have a wideband so just adjust the fuel bars for idle and then start messing with the rest of them.

FrankV702

iTrader: (14)

Ive tried that.. Still running insanely rich. I even tried a map for 720/1600cc injectors and its still rich. I figured maybe my brand new injectors were leaking or something so I sent them to get cleaned and theyre perfectly good. Now I think I may be getting trigger noise. My RPMs are really irratic on the RPM when cranking (this just started happening this weekend). It'll go to 188, then 0, then 255, then 0, then 188, then 255 etc etc etc and it seems to be going in "rythmn" with the fuel pump relay.. I rewired the CAS 3 times with the same results.

Here's the video of it running


Right now I'm pretty much convinced on returning it to stock unless one of two things happened;
A) I go outside this weekend and it starts right up and runs good by some miracle.
B) I happen to fall onto some money to get it proffessionally installed.

Both are far reaches and not very likely. I've spent way to much time working on this car and to much money to have it sit in my garage for another year. Id be perfectly happy with stock TII power levels right about now. Im just trying to decide if that Rtek 2.0 on the N/A ECU would have positive or negative results

Houstonderk

iTrader: (3)

You know that weird because I though I was the only one running through that many plugs. Like every 3rd start and then when running, it was way smoking rich and making a ticking noise under light boost and the tach was 2x on the cluster but normal on the haltech. Come to find out at the main unit the wires for the coils were backwards, so i swapped the pins and everything was fine. Its alot of testing when it doesn't work but I was driving that whole entire day until I couldn't pay for gas anymore.

FC3S.USD

iTrader: (2)

No you should not go back to stock , and if you do then you should try and keep car 95 % stock .

once you play with injector sizes and hyrid turbos your just asking for it.

Also did you ever set timming correctly on car ? try this .

then dont even turn on your car and go to your map go to 500 rpm range and 1000 rpm range at what amount do you have the injectors set ? Im guessing if 440 needs around ( rough *** ballpark ) 3-4 to idle , 550 2.5-3 so your 860 should need 2 ish . .

But I would personally try and save $ 400 and get a tuner to take care of you, because if tuning idle is frustrating ( wich I know it can be at start ) then boost and entering boost is going to be asking for it.


Good luck on the quest !

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

DUDE! Click here!
I hope that saves you some $!

I wouldn't go back to stock. Why don't you have Steve Kan tune your Haltech when he tunes your buddies 20b? He can tune Haltechs, why would you bother switching to a powerFC for him to tune instead? He will get that bitch running right for you.

FrankV702

iTrader: (14)

Ooh man! I never knew about that at advanced auto. Thanks haha. Steve Kan has came to Vegas back in.... June I believe? I payed the deposit of 200.00 for him to tune my car as well, and I wasn't able to get it tuned because the damn car wouldn't start. My friend is talking about getting Steve Kan to come out here again to tune his 20b, but I'm not sure when he wants to get him here. He was talkin about some time in November.. then I heard in Feb or something I think. I just dont want to have my car down for so long again then when he ends up coming down, find out something is wired wrong on the Haltech (although im 99% sure its just a tuning problem, hopefully) and waste another 200.00 on the initial deposit.


I dont have a ticking noise when driving, but it defintly feels powerless, running really rich, and smoking a lot. I think I may keep tryin to mess with it this weekend to see how I can get it running. My local friends don't want me to go back to stock either, haha. Thanks though to everyone for your words and help. I'll keep you all updated on how everythings turning out. I've got tons of pics from my buildup and everything.

Houstonderk

iTrader: (3)

Ah yes. Defective exchange. I saw that thread but didn't really state the fact that all the parts stores do it. In fact I would buy them at the nearest and the the next set somewhere and just tell them that it has to be the plugs becuase the other stores work. What I did was find someone with a base map thats closest and then with a meter I pinned every wire to the correct location and I found about 6 wires pinned wrong on mine and it just was smooth sailing afterwards.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

No Frank, don't go back to stock!

I had very little knowlege of standalones when I installed mine. All it took was tons of research, and patience. Hang in there man!

Have you tried to take fuel out of your maps?

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

so did you get this running ok??