AFM Help Please!!
07-24-05, 11:00 PM
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AFM Help Please!!
Ok.. I was driving home last night and all of the sudden the car wants to die.. well I knew right away what it felt like. I got it home and pulled the plug off the afm and started it up... and it acted exactly the same.. so Im guessing that either my afm is screwed or its in the wiring. Is there a way that I can test to see which it is?
07-24-05, 11:05 PM
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Could be a vacuum leak, faulty AFM (as in the fuel switch), no compression, etc. It could be a number of things.
If you believe it's the AFM, you can try to jumper the fuel pump connector (yellow, near the AFM/pressure sensor harness)
If you believe it's the AFM, you can try to jumper the fuel pump connector (yellow, near the AFM/pressure sensor harness)
07-24-05, 11:18 PM
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I'm not real big on non monkeyed with afm's causing problems......but there is a section in the FSM that gives you some basic resistances to look at.
A even better way is to backprobe with a digital meter, the afm's output pin AT the ECU with all the plugs on everything. Then slowly shove the vane in the afm to the rear. The voltage should drop from a figure of approx 4vdc at the beginning to approx a half volt when the vane is all the way aft. The meter shouldn't show any strange readings as you move the vane aft. Such as the voltage going down and at some spot going back up as you move the vane aft.
The fsm checks the opening/closing of the fuel cut switch in the afm, the resistance of the air temp sensor inside the afm, the resistance of the *pot* with the vane fully closed and I think with the vane all the way open.
Like the RAT said, if you jumper the fuel pump check connector you eliminate the possibility of the afm's fuel cut switch being the culprit.
A even better way is to backprobe with a digital meter, the afm's output pin AT the ECU with all the plugs on everything. Then slowly shove the vane in the afm to the rear. The voltage should drop from a figure of approx 4vdc at the beginning to approx a half volt when the vane is all the way aft. The meter shouldn't show any strange readings as you move the vane aft. Such as the voltage going down and at some spot going back up as you move the vane aft.
The fsm checks the opening/closing of the fuel cut switch in the afm, the resistance of the air temp sensor inside the afm, the resistance of the *pot* with the vane fully closed and I think with the vane all the way open.
Like the RAT said, if you jumper the fuel pump check connector you eliminate the possibility of the afm's fuel cut switch being the culprit.
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07-26-05, 10:20 PM
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MAN it sucks when dealers and auto shops CHARGE UP THE ***, try mazdatrix or ebay,
IF it turns out not to be your AFM b/c i'm going through the same thing,
it wouldnt hurt to get your Alternator checked and your grounds as i had that problem(s) with bad alternators.
AND VACUUM LEAKS!!! make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks b/c turbos dont like any leak what so ever. I'm currently in the process in changing all my vacuum hoses with silicone ones..
IF it turns out not to be your AFM b/c i'm going through the same thing,
it wouldnt hurt to get your Alternator checked and your grounds as i had that problem(s) with bad alternators.
AND VACUUM LEAKS!!! make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks b/c turbos dont like any leak what so ever. I'm currently in the process in changing all my vacuum hoses with silicone ones..
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