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05-05-10, 08:39 PM
#1
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just got my cousins 88 vert non turbo(i wish). and super happy. im going to take it to pettit racing either monday or tuesday so they could take a look at it. i dont know the exact milage but i know its around the 80 thousand something. he bought it from a old guy like 3-4 years ago with 60 somthing thousand. havent been driven in a whil but we went to check it out and it turned on with any hesitation. i was wondering if i could boost it with no problems? what do you guys think i should do? what are the top 5 mods people do?
thank you
thank you
05-06-10, 02:15 AM
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Pettit can boost it with no problems. You, on the other hand, will have problems if you attempt it yourself with limited skill.
In your case, it looks like the first thing you need is a new top. Robbins is considered the top brand, and you have the option to use the 1989 style top with rainguards if you wish. The other mods will depend on the condition of the car, the intent of the car, your budget, whether you keep the engine naturally aspirated, and the method by which it is supercharged if you decide to go that route. Some of the cars on this forum have more than $100,000 in mods.
If you are upset that you didn't get a reply within only 2 hours of posting then you do not have the patience to deal with old sports cars, and I recommend that you stick with new cars. You also may want to cut down on your sugar intake and/or the crack pipe.
05-06-10, 05:01 PM
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i have patience its just i saw a whole bunch of post builiding up and i thought no one was going to read it. and i know people have put money into their cars, no need to be a jerk. you have to be supportive if anything on these kind of posts. thanks anyhow
Pettit can boost it with no problems. You, on the other hand, will have problems if you attempt it yourself with limited skill.
In your case, it looks like the first thing you need is a new top. Robbins is considered the top brand, and you have the option to use the 1989 style top with rainguards if you wish. The other mods will depend on the condition of the car, the intent of the car, your budget, whether you keep the engine naturally aspirated, and the method by which it is supercharged if you decide to go that route. Some of the cars on this forum have more than $100,000 in mods.
If you are upset that you didn't get a reply within only 2 hours of posting then you do not have the patience to deal with old sports cars, and I recommend that you stick with new cars. You also may want to cut down on your sugar intake and/or the crack pipe.
Pettit can boost it with no problems. You, on the other hand, will have problems if you attempt it yourself with limited skill.
In your case, it looks like the first thing you need is a new top. Robbins is considered the top brand, and you have the option to use the 1989 style top with rainguards if you wish. The other mods will depend on the condition of the car, the intent of the car, your budget, whether you keep the engine naturally aspirated, and the method by which it is supercharged if you decide to go that route. Some of the cars on this forum have more than $100,000 in mods.
If you are upset that you didn't get a reply within only 2 hours of posting then you do not have the patience to deal with old sports cars, and I recommend that you stick with new cars. You also may want to cut down on your sugar intake and/or the crack pipe.
05-06-10, 06:17 PM
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Oh, sorry for spending my free time to answer your noob questions. I am placing you on my ignore list so you will no longer have to endure my non-supportive answers.
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05-06-10, 10:19 PM
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does any one know of a good cheap place to change out my top. i already have a new one just neep someone to install it but for a very good price. pm me please if anyone does know. close to west palm beach, fl, thanks
05-06-10, 10:52 PM
#10
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Antb, get rid of that K&N filter and go stock box. You are sucking in hot air and making matters worse. Paint looks good so I say you are good there. The top...well, you need to find a good mom and pop shop to do it. Chain type places will just mess it up or you'll have leaks.
Exhaust, I can't place more enfacis on this....EXHAUST!
Don't turbo it. Everyone screams "trubo, turbo, turbo"! but is it really worth it? It is a daily driver car, it is a convertible for god sake. You don't need boost. NA's are easy to make some power with, you just need some supporting mods and you'll get some appreciable gains without losing reliability.
Exhaust, I can't place more enfacis on this....EXHAUST!
Don't turbo it. Everyone screams "trubo, turbo, turbo"! but is it really worth it? It is a daily driver car, it is a convertible for god sake. You don't need boost. NA's are easy to make some power with, you just need some supporting mods and you'll get some appreciable gains without losing reliability.
05-06-10, 10:56 PM
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05-08-10, 06:06 PM
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Alright, from my view, theres a few simple things to get done.
One- remove that K&N, put the stock box back, and buy the proper K&N for it.
Two- Tune Up. Always do a tune up when you buy any car, you don't know when it was last done.
Three- Exhaust. The rotary is endlessly inhibited by the exhaust flow system and the way it had to be constructed to pass simple emissions restrictions. By removing catalytic converters, or even replacing existing ones with high-flow models, and replacing the mufflers with Racing Beat or similar, you will gain your most performance increase.
However with exhaust, beware since you are a S4, you use exhaust back-pressure to activate your VDI (5th and 6th) ports, you need to retain this pressure or switch to an S5 air-pump style system. To retain the back-pressure you will need a Racing Beat presilencer.
Four- Ignition. This is an arguable point, adding MSD or similar ignition boxes and using them to fire your coils. A more complete/stronger spark, combined with the SAME amount of fuel thats normally injected, will infact burn MORE of the fuel resulting in less waste, which results even further into higher gas mileage and horsepower.
People will argue this though because our coils and ignition system is superior to most already.
Five- Porting. Porting intake & exhaust internally in the rotary is another way to gain mid-top end power, this is expensive, requires an engine tear-down, porting templates, someone to do it, and while its down you may as well rebuild.
Six- Standalone. People say and some even prove that leaning out the mid-range in RPM levels, will infact increase power (which logically it makes sense), However I have no proof of this, the injector size on an N/A is large enough I believe to handle what it can produce even modified. If you feel the need to increase fuel, upgrade to a Turbo II pump and fuel system.
A standalone can control fuel maps, injector duty cycles, ignition, etc. etc. Though expensive, it will prolong the life of your engine by far with the monitoring capabilities.
Seven- Wideband o2. I should have listed this first, a wideband o2 sensor and gauge will help you prevent your engine from destroying itself without you knowing. This will also be used to diagnose many problems much quicker.
Eight- Turbo II Driveline. Another arguable point, is swapping in the entire turbo II driveline and mating it to an N/A block. While it is much stronger (read: probably indestructable) it does weight more, and will require more rotational velocity to get it moving, thus -possibly- weighing the low-end down. However out of it you get a stronger clutch, transmission, beefier driveshaft, and a LSD unit (which you should already have). I run a turbo II driveline in my N/A and I don't have a complaint about it. But then again, I also used to have a turbo II engine with the driveline.
Not sure if I missed anything or if my logic is flawed, if any nice person on this forum could review/correct/add to this, I'm sure the OP would love it.
One- remove that K&N, put the stock box back, and buy the proper K&N for it.
Two- Tune Up. Always do a tune up when you buy any car, you don't know when it was last done.
Three- Exhaust. The rotary is endlessly inhibited by the exhaust flow system and the way it had to be constructed to pass simple emissions restrictions. By removing catalytic converters, or even replacing existing ones with high-flow models, and replacing the mufflers with Racing Beat or similar, you will gain your most performance increase.
However with exhaust, beware since you are a S4, you use exhaust back-pressure to activate your VDI (5th and 6th) ports, you need to retain this pressure or switch to an S5 air-pump style system. To retain the back-pressure you will need a Racing Beat presilencer.
Four- Ignition. This is an arguable point, adding MSD or similar ignition boxes and using them to fire your coils. A more complete/stronger spark, combined with the SAME amount of fuel thats normally injected, will infact burn MORE of the fuel resulting in less waste, which results even further into higher gas mileage and horsepower.
People will argue this though because our coils and ignition system is superior to most already.
Five- Porting. Porting intake & exhaust internally in the rotary is another way to gain mid-top end power, this is expensive, requires an engine tear-down, porting templates, someone to do it, and while its down you may as well rebuild.
Six- Standalone. People say and some even prove that leaning out the mid-range in RPM levels, will infact increase power (which logically it makes sense), However I have no proof of this, the injector size on an N/A is large enough I believe to handle what it can produce even modified. If you feel the need to increase fuel, upgrade to a Turbo II pump and fuel system.
A standalone can control fuel maps, injector duty cycles, ignition, etc. etc. Though expensive, it will prolong the life of your engine by far with the monitoring capabilities.
Seven- Wideband o2. I should have listed this first, a wideband o2 sensor and gauge will help you prevent your engine from destroying itself without you knowing. This will also be used to diagnose many problems much quicker.
Eight- Turbo II Driveline. Another arguable point, is swapping in the entire turbo II driveline and mating it to an N/A block. While it is much stronger (read: probably indestructable) it does weight more, and will require more rotational velocity to get it moving, thus -possibly- weighing the low-end down. However out of it you get a stronger clutch, transmission, beefier driveshaft, and a LSD unit (which you should already have). I run a turbo II driveline in my N/A and I don't have a complaint about it. But then again, I also used to have a turbo II engine with the driveline.
Not sure if I missed anything or if my logic is flawed, if any nice person on this forum could review/correct/add to this, I'm sure the OP would love it.
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