cortneyofeden

I'm in the middle of replacing the full set of radiator hoses and t-stat.

I'm finding that with everything in place, I'm having to contort by body in ways that it is disinterested in going.

Anyone have suggestions on making it easier? Especially for a short gal like me (just shy of 5')....I'm finding that between short arms and legs, It's just hard to get tools in to pry off some of the old fastenings.

Today's work got as far as draining out coolant, replacing the t-stat. Also replaced two hoses, and took off two others. So four left to take off, and six to put back on, then finish the flushing of the system and make sure the t-stat is working nicely.

Thanks for the help, guys!

black_sunshine

A pair of curved needle-nose pliers can work wonders. If you remove the intake manifold it makes it simple to access the two hoses (from rear housing and to front of water pump). The hose on the driver's side (heater core hose) is sometimes hard to get at. I found that if I removed my sparkplug wires, it wasn't too hard to get off; I use pliers to remove it from the heater core's barb. The upper and lower radiator hoses are really simple; just remove the air pump to get the lower one, and be careful not to damage the oil metering pump's brittle lines. All the others were pretty straighforward.

When they're really stuck on the barb, a pocketknife works excellent (if you're not going to be saving the old hoses). Just slice it down the middle and pull it off. Otherwise, the curved needle-nose pliers can tackle most of them (twist and pull). The really stubborn ones may require cutting or some channellocks. Just be careful not to break/bend the plastic/metal barbs. Some of them can be quite brittle/easily bent or broken.

Slacker7

iTrader: (2)

When you flush the system, make sure you flush the engine block and the heater core too.

SureShot

I presume you pulled the fan & fan shroud.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Getting to the lower hose is best when you pull the shroud and fan. This also facilitates easy access to the front heater hose, which should be replaced as well (might as well replace all hoses...especially the drivers side heater hose...it WILL break and leave you at the side of the road). To get the old ones off, just cut.

Also, don't reuse the stock clamps. Get a good set of hose clamps from a speed shop. Note that these are not the same as the ones you get at the hardware store or auto parts store. They tend to cut into the hoses. The GOOD ones do not bite the hose, and tighten down evenly. Instead of a screw gear, they use a "clamp" like arrangement at the top. I can't seem to find a picture, and that's the best I can describe them.

Howi

iTrader: (2)

oops... forgot to help you out...

i'd try to simply stand on a stool and lean over the engine bay. i'm 5'11" and even i find that useful sometimes.

another method. if you're comfortable w/ dissambling parts off your car, you can quickly remove the rad-shroud, rad-fan, and the radiator. w/ these 3 items apart, even w/ the oil cooler still in, you can actually stand in your engine bay (thanks to our car's beautiful weight distribution). i found this method the best when i was doing my engine swap. it saved my back

cheers,

howi

cortneyofeden

Hmm. I managed to get 6 of the hoses changed today, and put fluid back in the system. I admitted defeat, but of course hadn't managed to first read these helpful responses.

I didn't take any parts out except for the battery, which was taken out (and the case for it getting a desperately needed cleaning in the meantime) so that I could get to the third bolt which was holding in the reservoir.

It got too late and I got too cold to do the whole deal with warming the car up and topping off the fluid. My plan is to go down tomorrow and deal with that.

I'm not quite sure what the various hoses are called, but I have two of the thinnest ones left. One I didn't do because the only way I could see getting to it was to take off a belt, swing the alternator out of the way, change the hose, and put it back. But I'm still JUST learning, and the thought of messing with such parts was just well...daunting. The other one I didn't replace I just couldn't begin to see how to get to. And my brain's forgetting exactly where it was. I think that the easiest way I could see to get to it was to take out the fuel injector, since I couldn't even follow the hose to the end with my hand, not to mention getting tools down there to loosen the clamp...my current plan was to beg Paul at RotorSport to change that one when he puts in my new transmission in a few weeks.

Or is this something that I really ought to just figure out to do? I just don't want to break anything. Trying to make the car better, not worse.

Hmm. Guess I should have pulled the fan. Would have made things a lot easier. Instead, I was on my back and contorting my body in weird ways again to get at hoses from underneath.

Another question. How would I flush the engine block and heater core? I'm assuming that I was doing this, seeing as I was following the Haygen's method of flushing the cooling system, but perhaps I'm wrong?

Yikes, so much to do. Still a bit nervous about everything, but trying to learn. And yes, a small knife and channelocks came in very handy.

I'm trying not to be overwhelmed.....

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

Do they look like any of these?

http://www.fittingsandadapters.com/hoseclamps.html

cortneyofeden

Part of my confusion is not knowing what the separate hoses are called. I had 8 hoses, a "full set" from what I know. I replaced the six I could get to, and have two of the thinner ones left over.

I'm hoping that it won't be too expensive to get him to replace the other two when he puts in my new tranny.

cortneyofeden

The ones I put on look like the "standard worm clamps" or whatever they're called, for the most part.

Howi

iTrader: (2)

cortneyofeden, i love you....

you're the very 1st female 7 owner i've heard of, not to mention that you actually work on your own car....

i love you...

ok, onto your question....
mmm.. i don't suggest that you should change the remaining 2 hoses. you've replaced all the other ones, that's good enough! i think that you should hang around the forum for little longer, work on your car a little longer. and when you're ready, sum up your courage and rip the upper intake manifold off (or dynamic chamber, whatever), this way you can replace all of the vaccuum lines while you're at it

this forum has all the information regarding the removal of the upper intake manifold, along w/ the removal of the rats nest, all the emission, idling related valves/solenoids. do some searches for them, you won't be dissapointed.

have i mentioned that i love you?

howi

cortneyofeden

So I have a fan now, eh?

I'm working on it, but slowly. Actually, feel like I'm plunging in. But it's such a blast!

The thought of taking out major pieces is scary still. Some day, though....some day....

My next project is to replace oil filter base, o-rings, oil metering pump, and theoretically the heater hose for the engine. Probably a few of those, not all at the same time. But we'll see.

First I get to buy new tires. Yay.

cortneyofeden

Maybe it's not as enticing if I admit that I have NO clue what those are. Just that they need to be fixed, and I'm going to figure out how to fix/replace 'em.

Good thing I've got a good shop guy to ask questions of.

twistedriver

When you change your oil filter base thing, is much easier if you get a S shape wrench. The first time i try to remove those bolts with a regular wrench i cut my hand pretty bad. <---clumsy?

cortneyofeden

Thanks for the advice, I'll check to make sure I get one if I don't have it already. So how bad is that to replace otherwise? Any clue on the metering pump, as well?

Looks like something around there's leaking slightly, but due to it having mostly been sitting around for a while, I'm replacing them just in case.

cortneyofeden

I'm a dummy, already replaced the heater hoses. Yay. I'm confuzzled, since I just replaced whatever was given to me (well, except for the 2 that I can't get to), and am trying to think through what I still need to do, given my original list.

Gee, I'm feeling even more blonde than usual.

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

The oil filter pedestal can be a pain. I managed to get it off fairly easy using the closed end of a 10mm combination wrench. It just takes a lot of patience, since there's not much room.

Be careful when putting the new o-rings in. When I installed my FC3S.org oil pedestal, one of the o-rings fell out of place just before it made contact with the base. I didn't notice and tightened everything down and after a day or so, noticed it was leaking. I pinched one of the o-rings, so I had to replace them again.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

These are them: http://www.fittingsandadapters.com/tboltclamps.html

Howi: She's a girl. Get over it.

cortneyofeden

Those look a bit different from the ones that I used. Oh well. I'll keep them in mind for next time. But there's no way I'm about to take everything apart to put new clamps on.

I really ought to go get that finished today, and do a bit of body work (sanding out of the tiny rust spots and priming them).

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Christi is the official FC girl! lol
And of course. OMGHI2U!!!!!ONE!!
Y HELLO THAR BUTTS3X??!!

Anyways.
There aren't many coolant hoses.

The 3 goin to the radiator(1 up top/1 main at bottom and the little one that branches off it)

Then there's the on going from the driver side engine block(right under oil filter) to the firewall.

Then 1 or 2 hoses on the Throttle body for the damn thermowax and crap.

There's probably one I'm missing but I haven't ripped the Entire cooling system out yet.

DigitalSynthesis

Cortney, have you gotten your very own copy of the FSM yet? That's one of the more useful "tools" (that and this forum, of course) that you will find. You can download a copy at:

http://www.fc3s.org

And get the parts diagrams (Mazda factory part number sheets) at:

http://www.mazdaformance.com/rx7parts.htm

Or you can buy a copy of the manual at either mazdaformance or http://www.mazdatrix.com. I found that having the book-form of the FSM was SUPER useful, plus you get the electrical diagrams which I haven't found online and needed many many times. Its only $60 or so, and its WELL worth it.

Also, make friends with your local dealer, or join the SCCA and Mazdamotorsports (.com) to get discounts on factory parts. These cars are picky about a lot of the components we use on them and there are many times that only Mazda parts will do, as expen$ive as they are.

cortneyofeden

I haven't gotten the FSM yet, but plan to REALLY soon now. Just found that the one in the car was a solid mass of power steering fluid. Don't ask, I didn't do it! But I have looked at the ones online as much as I can - which isn't much - before my eyes try to cross.

But I'm using all Mazda hoses, and t-stat....