Advice on driving a blown engine
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,106
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Advice on driving a blown engine
So I am going to be driving around in my daily driver, even though the engine is blown. (no smoke, at certain revs/throttle doesn't sound *that* bad) I'm waiting for an engine to be built for me.
1. Should I be doing anything differently?
2. Why does my A/F gauge read normally if not a bit lean? (millage isn't good, although better than I might have expected)
3. Is there any point in running 92 octane? While it needs a lot of throttle, it's obviously not running substantiall boost. What am I going to do, blow a apex seal?
4. Anything else?
Thanks.
1. Should I be doing anything differently?
2. Why does my A/F gauge read normally if not a bit lean? (millage isn't good, although better than I might have expected)
3. Is there any point in running 92 octane? While it needs a lot of throttle, it's obviously not running substantiall boost. What am I going to do, blow a apex seal?
4. Anything else?
Thanks.
No, some blown engines with all 3 apex's on one rotor will still start and drive just fine, other than being weak. Others, more commonly turbo II's, will barely start if at all. Just drive it like it is. IF you have the ability and time, find out which rotor is dead and remove the injector clips for that rotor, primary and secondary injectors so it wont be firing fuel into a dead rotor, should help your mileage a lot.
No, if any face of the dead rotor is making compression then it's still firing, adn removing fuel from it means you'll lose a bit of starting adn driving power. 90% of blown engines lose an entire rotor though, make 0 compression in that half, and there isnt any use in dumping raw fuel into that chamber in that case. I have actually seen a couple of exhaust fires that started because of that, even though I personally have driven many a blown engine car with no problem, but if you can, unhooking that 2nd set of injectors will help depending on the compression.
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My advice .... don't.
Originally posted by hypntyz7
WHy do you say that? Hell, if it's his only mode of transportation, and it still starts and runs decent, I say go for it. ****, Ive done it many a time. It's not like he's gonna do any more damage to it ya know...
WHy do you say that? Hell, if it's his only mode of transportation, and it still starts and runs decent, I say go for it. ****, Ive done it many a time. It's not like he's gonna do any more damage to it ya know...
Yeah, you're right. HE obviously shouldnt plan on driving this car as is until next year on his birthday when he might get a new car or something...
BUt, if he needs to go somewhere, and has no other way, hop in the old 7 and make it earn it's keep a while longer. Better than walking or not going...
BUt, if he needs to go somewhere, and has no other way, hop in the old 7 and make it earn it's keep a while longer. Better than walking or not going...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,106
Likes: 0
From: London, Ontario, Canada
I am getting it fixed, however I can't just press a button and have a solution ready for me. So far it has had two 200km (trips ~130miles) @ 90kph (~57mph). It will have to do one more of those and my daily driving needs for up to a month. I don't see any reason it shouldn't be able to do that. Obviously the one rotor is under a lot of stress, but think about the total number of miles it would have gone if the other rotor hadn't died. Any other tips?
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