Freshly rebuilt S5 T2 engine but I can't get the timing right . My friend and I have the same set-up so it helps to compare .

when i set the CAS at factory position, I have something like 15 BTDC . Idle is set at 800 rpm hot engine and all . Shorting the test connector doesn't seem to make any difference tho but i know the circuit works cause I can get the codes from the CEL . I have managed to time it by slotting a bit more the CAS to retard it to 5 ATDC . I saw somewhere that putting the CAS drive gear backwards would cause this . So I thought I was all good , was going to let it like that .

Then I decided to double-check that .Placed both engines at the leading mark, I took both CAS caps off and inspect the the teeth & magnets to be align the same way but they wern't ??? To get that result , I had to put my CAS back to it's normal position . that means the drive gear is set right .

So my question is : What the hell can give me 20 degrees advance at 800 rpm with test connector grounded ? Idle is super smooth .. see's engine load or something ???Already tried different ECU,Boost sensor

p.s. : evrything is blocked off on the intake , no ac , no omp but connected . so maybe that's why the test connector doesn't change anything . cause both cars are like that and his gets abused perfectly

Thanks for your help guys , I'm out of ideas

 

I've found that the CAS can shift if you are dropping it in with the power steering/AC bolted up (can't remember much about AC because like every FC has it removed these days). The problem is that the bracket interferes. Back those off the studs and then lower in the CAS.

 

Ain't a problem as i've lowered the PS to the AC's location plus I've hold the CAS shaft from the top as I lowered it down and everything is aligned the same as the other working car

 

I'll be checking the coolant sensor and and the tps's narrow range voltage at the ecu tommorow

 

Make sure you have the correct reading at the ECU for the 5th switch and clutch switch as I believe they alter timing somewhat.

 

if your idle is not below ~750 rpm, it will advance about 20 degrees (~15 ATC), zero split. if L1 and T1 are pretty close, you need to lower the idle and check again

 

What give the rpm info to the ecu ?? Maybe it get´s the wrong reading ?

 

the CAS gives the RPM reading

bern come and see me I could lend you an other CAS for you to try

 

nothing is wrong iwth your CAS. the probelm is your idle is too high. try to lower it by adjusting the idle bypass screw, and there is also a stop screw on the throttle body

 

Thanks guys ! Endin up finding the problem The narrow range tps was set to high. I had 1.7v at the ecu instead of 1v . Has i was lowering it down , around 1.2v the timing dropped drastically. So I started playing around sit the adjustements on both tps sensors to get to 750 rpm and a 1v narrow range input and now the CAS sits wright in the middle

Thanks everybody

 

Good news but very strange.