Adjusting idle speed?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 10
From: San Francisco
Adjusting idle speed?
Alrite my idle is pretty high around 1100~1400rpm range even when its all warm up. Do anyone exactly know the procedure to adjust it.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html
server is down now, but check back later its there
server is down now, but check back later its there
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 10
From: San Francisco
Originally Posted by snowball
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html
server is down now, but check back later its there
server is down now, but check back later its there
Originally Posted by Brody8877
i kno is down, i already adjusted my tps like a million times, and i dont want to deal with it anymore!!!!! Idle is just high, not rough, and i remember reading the FSM about adjusting idle speed, but not clear/sure about it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 10
From: San Francisco
im still waiting for that site to go back up. thnx. I was like trying to search in that site and it was down so i was hoping if anyone would know. but thanks anyways.
Try the idle adjust air screw. I think thats what your talkin about.
For the turbo engines I think it is close to the BAC on the driver's side of the engine bay close to the LIM, basically you just adjust with a flat-head screwdriver.
For the turbo engines I think it is close to the BAC on the driver's side of the engine bay close to the LIM, basically you just adjust with a flat-head screwdriver.
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take the intercooler off
look at the thermo wax
jam something between the thermowax and the screw so its fully extended
see if it still idles at 1100rpm - if it doesnt, you've found your problem
and i cant belieive you didnt name my name - i hope you die for that ****
look at the thermo wax
jam something between the thermowax and the screw so its fully extended
see if it still idles at 1100rpm - if it doesnt, you've found your problem
and i cant belieive you didnt name my name - i hope you die for that ****
I had the same problem the thermo-wax passage was blocked with crud water would not pass throw the thermo-wax to warm it up to kick down the idle. So i took off the thermo-wax and cleaned it and know it works great.
Tony
Tony
Originally Posted by My5ABaby
For an N/A, and probably a TII, check the set screw on the TB. Basically it tightens your throttle so it pulls it open slightly giving you a higher idle.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 10
From: San Francisco
Originally Posted by slpin
take the intercooler off
look at the thermo wax
jam something between the thermowax and the screw so its fully extended
see if it still idles at 1100rpm - if it doesnt, you've found your problem
and i cant belieive you didnt name my name - i hope you die for that ****
look at the thermo wax
jam something between the thermowax and the screw so its fully extended
see if it still idles at 1100rpm - if it doesnt, you've found your problem
and i cant belieive you didnt name my name - i hope you die for that ****
Originally Posted by slpin
raise the idle before ur car is warmed up
it works like a thermowax, so u can kinda see why it could be a problem after many years...
it works like a thermowax, so u can kinda see why it could be a problem after many years...
"What does the thermowax do?"
"it works like a thermowax"
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 841
Likes: 1
From: Lansing area Michigan
I have a similar problem but I am convinced that my BAC is bad since I tested the resistance with a Ohm meter and found it to be too high for FSM specs. I also believe my TPS is bad tho since that tested out of specs big time too.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 10
From: San Francisco
Originally Posted by NeCr0mStR
I have a similar problem but I am convinced that my BAC is bad since I tested the resistance with a Ohm meter and found it to be too high for FSM specs. I also believe my TPS is bad tho since that tested out of specs big time too.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 841
Likes: 1
From: Lansing area Michigan
My TPS does not go down to the proper Ohm specs without me forcing it all the way closed. Altho the WOT is within specs the closed is high. Also my BAC works but it is 1.0-1.1 Ohms above the max resistance. So I am going to start with replacing the BAC and see if that helps even tho I know the TPS is probably bad, I don't get any hesitation or rough idle, its just a high idle unless I rev the engine and let it drop quickly down then it acts like it is going to catch at 1100 rpms but will go down to the 750 or so that it should. But if I rev then engine and let it slowly come down to idle it will stop at about 1100 or so and idle between there and 1400 or so.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 10
From: San Francisco
Originally Posted by NeCr0mStR
My TPS does not go down to the proper Ohm specs without me forcing it all the way closed. Altho the WOT is within specs the closed is high. Also my BAC works but it is 1.0-1.1 Ohms above the max resistance. So I am going to start with replacing the BAC and see if that helps even tho I know the TPS is probably bad, I don't get any hesitation or rough idle, its just a high idle unless I rev the engine and let it drop quickly down then it acts like it is going to catch at 1100 rpms but will go down to the 750 or so that it should. But if I rev then engine and let it slowly come down to idle it will stop at about 1100 or so and idle between there and 1400 or so.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 841
Likes: 1
From: Lansing area Michigan
Check Used parts, I have a BAC and TPS from a 87 NA if your interested in either let me know. I can test the BAC and make sure its still good if your interested.
Also my mods are a K&N filter in the stock box and a RB full true Dual exhaust with a street port 2 P&P job from atkins.
Also my mods are a K&N filter in the stock box and a RB full true Dual exhaust with a street port 2 P&P job from atkins.
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