My friend took a wire from the battery directly to the pump(so we didn't bypass anything he just directly fed it 12v) when we tested if at 12v the car ran well which it did.

 

Got it wired up again (drinking and cars doesn't mix) figured it out in 5mins. So it starts again.

Concerning the b/w wire on the main relay:key off - no voltage. Key on- yes voltage. Turn key to off and the idiot cluster stays illuminated and yes to voltage. Unplug the main relay and everything turns off.

Not sure if you meant fuel relay under dash which I have a switch wired in, or the resistor relay which all I did was remove the extra wire a previous owner put in which now has the pump at a constant 11.5v which is not amazing but better. But obviously the resistor relay isn't functioning which is probably why they had that wire in but it didn't achieve what I think they were after.

 

So, the B/W wire in the two wire Main Relay plug (not 4 wire plug) goes from no power w/key to off, but then has voltage w/key to on, and then w/key going back to off the voltage remains on the B/W wire? You can try attempting to turn the car off by pulling the BTN fuse in the engine fuse box. This would eliminate one possibility. If this has no affect then another thing you could do is unplug the four wire plug at the Main Relay and jumper W/L to B/W and B/G to B/Y and in doing so you will help to remove the B/W wire in the two wire plug at the Main Relay that is powered by the Engine fuse.

And I was talking about the fuel relay under the hood.

 

I tried both. Btn fuse did nothing. As soon as you jumper the W/L and B/W the relay clicks and with key off the idiot cluster lights up.

 

Does the B/W wire at the 4 wire Main Relay plug have voltage w/key to off? Have you done anything to the alternator wiring recently? And pull the Meter fuse w/the engine running and key to off. This at least should cause the idiot lights to go off and perhaps the engine turning off. And what was done to the extra wire (B/W) at the fuel pump relay. What was the wire connected to before and what is it connected to now?

And when you jumpered the wires at the Main Relay did you unplug the four wire plug before jumpering as suggested? If you did then the Relay should not be making any noises.

 

The b/w on the pump relay was grounded. I just removed it altogether. This problem occurred before that. It was when my friend decided it was a good idea to apply 12v directly to the fuel pump via the battery. I'll check what you've suggested and get back to you. And yeah I unplugged the 4 wire plug before humouring it

 

If the 4 wire relay plug was unplugged before jumpering then the relay should not be making a sound. Is it possible that the clicking sound you hear is coming from somewhere other?

 

Nope it's the main relay clicking. B/w has no voltage key off but w/l does.

 

Pulling the meter fuse kills the lights but not the car

 

Figured it would. Not sure if it was stated but what changes were made to the fuel pump relay under the hood besides the ungrounding of the B/W wire?

If the Main Relay is clicking while the largest plug is removed from the relay then the only practical cause would be coming from the B/W wire in the two wire relay plug. It's powered by the 15 amp Engine fuse as so is the Circuit Opening Relay and the S4 alternator. How about unplugging the two wire plug behind the alternator that has the B/W wire and a W/B wire and see if this turns the engine off.

 

I've got a s5 engine and so I had to wire in the s5 alternator.

 

When you were jumpering the wires at one of the Main Relay plugs and heard the relay click did you continue to complete the two jumpers and see if the car could be turned off simply by turning the key.

And were any changes made to the Circuit Opening Relay?

 

Yeah I did and still wouldn't turn off. Circuit opening relay just has a fuel cut switch wired into the b/w wire

 

Pulling engine fuse doesn't turn off the car?

 

Are you using both S4 and S5 harnesses or just S4?

And is the fuel pump still directly powered?

 

Just series 4. No it's not but the fuel resistor relay isn't functioning properly. It's running the pump at a constant 11.5v. Might be why p.o wired in the ground thinking it would allow 9v and 12v but held it in 9v instead.

 

Installed an isolation switch til I can find what's causing this issue.

 

Had some wonderful electrical anomalies today. Still got the same back feeding power to the main relay car won't turn off via the ignition switch. But today my fuel cut switch light stopped functioning. No night the car was running so obviously working. On my way home from my friends house the radiator warning light came on then left about 3 times. Most concerning especially when my temp gauge started jumping all over the place. Then I realised when I made it home the temp gauge wire was loose. And unrelated to the rad warning light as it's an after market gauge though the radiator warning still worries me. Oh and when I got home boom the fuel cut switch light started working again. Yay! Gremlins. I'm not talking cute n cuddly Mogwai. I mean some idiot fed en after midnight and they decided my car was the place to be.

 

Fuel starvation fixed. Rewired the pump. Eliminated the resistor relay so yeah it runs rich at idle but finally it pulls hard, solid through all gears, no hesitation