adjustable fpr 36psi max?!
 

S4 turbo rx7 with s5 turbo motor.stock s4 ecu.full stainless turbo back 3"-2.5"-large tips.fmic.fd3s fuel pump.turbosmart MBC turned right down.pod filter and that's about it. My adjustable rising rate Fpr won't let me run a base pressure higher than 36psi idling (I remember turning throttle by hand and the gauge dipped so I'm not sure it's doing what it should). I'm assuming it's junk (wife dropped it before installation haha)and should just replace it. I've only just got my car going a couple weeks ago and on the road last week. Just put on an fcd and am going to pull the turbo off and port The wg next week. So I haven't been boosting much or opening the throttle up all the way either as before the FCD was on I hit boost cut once. Now I floored it today and it definitely felt like it leaned out in second just above 4000rpm up hill and it wasn't even above 6psi boost so I backed off. So I'm thinking the Fpr is a likely culprit. or injectors need cleaning or what else should I be checking/fixing/upgrading? Thanks for any advice

On a side note I added too much premix today maybe an extra 100ml-150ml.I heard that can lower octane rating causing detonation?

The extra added was to about 20litres.

What kind of FPR is it?

It came with the car when I bought it as a rolling body.previous owner said it was rising rate but could be static.it's a no brand.gauge could even be nackered

Sent from my GT-I9100 using RX7Club

Going to get some more fuel to dilute the 2 stroke/fuel mix and a new ref to see if I can set pressure to 40psi and a known functioning reg will sort the problem. Still open to opinions on what else could be at fault or should be adressed

Do you still have the full setup as Stock on the fuel rails?Besides having an Adjustable FPR?
If you do then the Stock FPR is not allowing you to adjust Fuel pressure.

Nope bought a s4 rail.banjo bolted it. That's why I'm sure the reg is faulty.unless s5 pulsation Dampner on the lower rail would cause flow issues?

I won't go any further in case I am just giving you misinformation Ben,
But any of the setups with a aftermarket FPR That I have seen,have no PD or Stock FPR.
it just runs fuel into and out of the Hollowed rails(either series or parallel feed) and out to the FPR and return.The FPR acts as a PD.
That is about all I can tell ya.sorry.
I'll back out and leave it to the "Pros".(I tried though!..)

Cheers. Shit so may need a s4 lower rail as well.

Sweet!thought I had one lying around. PD already removed but need a fitting.will sort that on my mission tomorrow

PD won't hurt this. I'm running a S5 primary rail & PD and S4 secondary to an Aeromotive fpr.

Sounds like the FPR may be a Carb FPR. Carb'd cars run in the 15psi range. Not sure if they can even push 30+ psi.

It could also be a crap EFI FPR.

Just to make sure it's assembled right.
It goes. Fuel pump to primary rail. Primary rail to secondary. Secondary to FPR
FPR to fuel return line.

Never skimp on fuel related components. You don't want your fuel pressure to drop due to crap parts one day and blow your engine.

The aeromotive A1000 is a great FPR. I've had one for over 6 years.
New Aeromotive 13109 EFI Fuel Pressure Bypass Regulator A1000 6 | eBay

I think it's just junk.got the setup right for sure.

Also noticed pressure drops straight to zero when turning key off. That can't be right.

Check the fuel pump as well (physical connections). It could be back flowing as soon as it's not running also, causing all the fuel to return to the tank immediately.

Ok I've tried another reg and it was worse. Maybe was given a low pressure one as it would exceed 20psi.long story short put it all back to stock rail and reg. Tried boosting had same starvation problem. Removed fcd. Problem gone. Went for a good testing. If I am easy on the acc pedal even while boosting at the injector change over it's smooth and I can boost alright. If I'm giving more than say 3/4 acc it hesitates in 2nd gear for a second but can rev right through or in 3rd it doesn't hit a wall per say but definite power loss and a pap pap pap pap of exhaust backfires but does climb in rpm. But I backed off because that's scary to me.lol

Picking the pump is giving up or clogged sick or something. Gonna check the pumps functionality tomorrow. Note to self buy multimeter so don't have to borrow.

Ok so had a friend come along for a drive. Hooked up volt meter to the pump. Got 9v, so all good there. Drive it, floor it, load it up and it never raises. So there Appears to be an issue with the resistor relay, the relay is not closing allowing 12v under load, explaining the leaning out as secondaries kicking in because the pumps not pumping enough pressure so the injectors aren't flowing enough or so is my understanding.

We hooked up a 12v constant feed to the pump temporarily for testing and boom, revs through, no hesitation and more power everywhere. Pulls hard. So now what's my next move? Replace the relay and rewire the pump or eliminate the resistor relay and deal with excess fuel At idle(keep in mind I have stock computer) or do I have other gremlins to chase? Satch the knowledgeable I'm looking at you, haha, or anyone willing to offer advice.

Note: my resistor/relay also has an extra wire coming from it which was grounded when I got the car (any I've seen have only 6 wires. Mine has the 6 plus this extra one.) See 3rd pic down http://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generatio...wires-1010229/ I've had it grounded.maybe it was added to "fix" a faulty relay leaving it stuck in 9v mode or he thought he could get it to run constant 12v but achieved the opposite.

Extra wire is junk. Pulled the relay apart and it's just wrapped around the blue wire and taped up.

I just peeked at some threads Ben,this seemed to be interesting.https://www.rx7club.com/nw-rx-7-foru...-issue-870743/

That is interesting and simple.

On a side note I removed the mystery extra wire. The pump was noticeably louder afterwards (possibly in 12v constantly, will have to check when my mate comes over again tonight) and drive great again. Only problem I can note is since hooking up that 12v direct feed earlier I seemed to have shorted something which is now back feeding power. When I switch off the key I have to either disconnect the battery or pull the Egi comp Fuse to get the car to turn off.

Try the Search function(sorry to say.)
I found that thread under Fuel pump relay bypass.
It chucked up alot of threads.maybe you will find what you are going through in one of those??

Haha no worries. Believe me I've been reading through thread after thread. I'll keep reading though even irrelevant information to my current situation can prove useful in the future. I'll test what's happening now and work a way around it and post results (hopefully help someone else in the future) otherwise I'll probably just bypass it and have to figure out this new ignition stuck on thing. I'll try eliminate my Dickey ignition switch first as that's a known problem of mine

heh.I know what you mean.
this stuff actually could be documented as a case for insomnia.
When I started out,I read stuff that made my head spin.When I Went to bed that "magical mechanic" would pop out and start working on my car..Keeping me up all night!

Haha I used to jump out of bed at like midnight with a eureka moment and run to the garage. Ok so pump now runs at 11v constantantly oddly. Was trying to track this new constant running problem and the main relay isn't relaxing so my mate was disconnecting things one at a time to find something and pulled my relay for my modded cigarette lighter push button starter and can't remember the order the wires went on. Car won't start.lol fml.

To bypass the fuel pump relay requires just jumpering one of the Blue/Red wires to one of the Blue wires at the relay plug.

W/key to off measure the voltage at the Main Relay on the B/W wire that is in a plug w/just two wires. It should not have voltage. What did you do to the wiring when you worked on the fuel relay?