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The post I wasn't hoping to make for a long time. Couple days ago my add coolant light came on. I had added coolant and water a couple times without cracking the bleed screw. The light was never solid, it just kind of came on, then would turn off randomly, then come on. I pressure tested the cooling system and lost 2 psi of pressure over a 3 hour period, with no visible external leaks. The next day I brought it into the shop, cracked the bleed screw, filled it with coolant til it poured out, and capped everything off. Its worth noting at this point that I noticed the coolant overflow was filled almost to the brim. Ive been monitoring my coolant temp gauge, and 100% of the time it has stayed between 1/4 and 1/3. I know 1/3 is probably a hair hot, but nothing to write home about. Once I was done filling it, I took it on a little 5 minute test drive around and the light was out. When I went to leave work though, my light came on, and was flickering on and off the whole drive home. This morning the light was on almost the whole drive. Checked under the cap and cant see any coolant in the thermostat housing under the cap. Don't remember how much coolant I took out of the overflow, but its currently an inch above the full mark. There is no white smoke at all from the exhaust, or sweet smell. Im running a straight pipe with a glass pack. Car doesn't run any differently than it ever has. Give it to me straight, Am I probably looking at a coolant seal?
EDIT: Its worth noting I went out and pulled my plugs just now. Nice and dry, with a good smooth tan color.
Last edited by lespaul166; Jul 24, 2020 at 07:54 AM.
if it isn't holding pressure, there is a leak somewhere.... you should pressurize it, and keep looking, it doesn't take a big leak to have the symptom. the car i just sold had literally a pinhole in the radiator, and it did the exact same thing, it was not easy to find, its in an odd place, and the amount of leakage is tiny
if it isn't holding pressure, there is a leak somewhere.... you should pressurize it, and keep looking, it doesn't take a big leak to have the symptom. the car i just sold had literally a pinhole in the radiator, and it did the exact same thing, it was not easy to find, its in an odd place, and the amount of leakage is tiny
I just had to add a gallon of coolant to it, after filling it up completely yesterday. Noticing some bubbles when running with the cap off, not up
to temp. Bad t-stat? Idk. For it to lose enough to set the low coolant light after 5 minutes. Once it got up to temp and the t stat opened I Went to take the cap off and the pressure was incredible behind it. Usually it takes quite a drive to get it to that point.
EDIT: she’s bubbling. RIP
Last edited by lespaul166; Jul 24, 2020 at 10:52 AM.
Is the buzzer coming on along with the add coolant light? if this wire to sensor on top middle of radiator is not connected make sure u connect it back its there for a reason and MAKE SURE THERE IS NO COOLANT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FLOOR. my heater core had a crack which is common for how old these cars are. I would fill the coolant and it would leak and the buzzer and light would come on.
The sensor that is on top middle of the radiator should have a strong connection. The coolant grounds the switch telling the system there is sufficient coolant .
If coolant is low the sensor does not touch the coolant in the top of the radiator and the buzzer will come on. If this switch isnt working then you need to replace it.
this switch here
ALso if you do have a heater core leak you will need to either replace it or use some coolant hose to bypass the heater core completely from the engine.
Is the buzzer coming on along with the add coolant light? if this wire to sensor on top middle of radiator is not connected make sure u connect it back its there for a reason and MAKE SURE THERE IS NO COOLANT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FLOOR. my heater core had a crack which is common for how old these cars are. I would fill the coolant and it would leak and the buzzer and light would come on.
The sensor that is on top middle of the radiator should have a strong connection. The coolant grounds the switch telling the system there is sufficient coolant .
If coolant is low the sensor does not touch the coolant in the top of the radiator and the buzzer will come on. If this switch isnt working then you need to replace it.
this switch here
ALso if you do have a heater core leak you will need to either replace it or use some coolant hose to bypass the heater core completely from the engine.
No buzzer, but none of my buzzers have ever worked. But the lights flashing on and off and I’m getting a rush of bubbles like in the video when running hot. I left a pressure tester on it overnight so when I come into the shop today, hopefully I find a huge puddle of coolant somewhere. I almost wouldn’t mind the heater core because then at least I could finish pulling all my HVAC **** out and finish cutting my wiring harness down.
No buzzer, but none of my buzzers have ever worked. But the lights flashing on and off and I’m getting a rush of bubbles like in the video when running hot. I left a pressure tester on it overnight so when I come into the shop today, hopefully I find a huge puddle of coolant somewhere. I almost wouldn’t mind the heater core because then at least I could finish pulling all my HVAC **** out and finish cutting my wiring harness down.
Heater core is really easy on these, there is a little cover, you slide the hoses off and the core will just slide out. if you had practice its a half our job, super simple.
