ok i got coolant in the resevoir, and in the radiator.. should i flush it.. is there a sensor i can check.. or can i just dissconnect that annoying bastard!

 

Check the sensor in the top middle of the radiator. Those things get old and break very easily. A replacement is pretty cheap from Mazdatrix.
-John

 

Top off the radiator from the little cap.

 

I had this same problem in my new TII. It ended up being a dirty coolant level sensor. Check to see if there is gunk build-up on it, it may be preventing the sensor from making a good contact with the coolant.

 

I would disconnect all the annoying things associated with the car, starting with the giant nut behind the wheel. THAT "IDIOT" BUZZER IS TELLING YOU OF IMPENDING DANGER. Maybe it's going off cause your almost out of gas? or your registration is due? or, I know, its that your car is " smarter " than you.

Get rid of the buzzer, but don't post when your engine is blown, and you can't understand why.

PEACE THE DOG

 

just ground the wire thats going to the sensor....

 

My buzzer was removed. Oh well.

 

I have no buzzer....but it can be usefull if everything is working properly...

If your idiot cluster doesnt work and the buzzer goes off, chances are it's one of 2 things....low oil or low coolant...that is, if you're not at redline... I'd keep it if I were you. Clean or replace the coolant level sensor and if that works, check the oil level sensor....

 

you have to bleed it well

 

That buzzer isn't nearly as annoying as a cooked motor, and it'll tell you of a coolant leak long before the temp gauge will. To check the warning system follow the instructions on page T-47 of the FSM Body Electrical chapter.

 

ok ive checked the sensor.. cleaned it off, checked the wire coming from the sensor, and ive flushed the coolant.. buzzer still just comes on and off while driving. anything else i should check

 

i kept fn around with the coolant level when the damn buzzer was going off, turned out that i had (almost) no oil. the buzzer isnt that specific about what it is pissed off about. since i had had coolant issues, i just assumed it was water level. filled up with gtx and all was quiet.

 

there is a coolant light and a generic buzzer if i'm correct. If the buzzer and Coolant light are on, then your coolant is low/ sensor is not wet, or faulty sensor/loose corroded wiring. I don't see what that has to do with oil. If a proper bleed is not done, then there could be a big air bubble right where the sensor is. Haynes outlines a good procedure for flushing, refill and air bleed.

Tell us exactly the steps you took when you flushed the coolant.

 

mine did this for awhile...turned out to just be air in the line. You have to bleed the air out correctly on these cars.

 

ok whats the correct way to bleed the air...i have noticed since ive flushed it that it dosent buzz as often now..

i drained all the coolant.. poured some fresh coolant through with the plug out just to make sure i got all the old nasty stuff out..plugged it back up.. filled it up, left the cap off and started the car and let it warm up with the heat on full blast.. let it sit like that for awhile then i put the cap back on.

 

There are 2 air bleed points to consider. Once you start filling your engine with coolant, you need to make sure the Air Bleed Screw on the passenger side of the radiator is unscrewed. It's just a phillips plastic screw. Once coolant starts to drip out of that hole, screw it tight, and continue to fill coolant till it reaches the top of the filler neck. At this point, you should start your engine so that your water pump fills any crevase that hasn't been filled yet. According to the Haynes, once you start your car, the level will drop so you fill it again till it's up to the top, and engine is warm. At this point I believe you should cap the system. There should be no air. Hopefully that works or doesn't blow your car up.

 

Correct cooling system filling and bleeding procedure:

1. Put the heater in the HOT position. You'll need to turn the ignition on first to operate the stepper motor. Leave the heater on until your test drive at the end is finished.
2. Make sure both the engine and radiator drain plugs are installed.
3. Remove the filler cap (on top of thermostat housing), radiator cap and (on S4's only) the bleeder on the side of the top radiator neck.
4. Begin filling the water/coolant mix through the radiator neck until it reaches the top, then replace the radiator cap.
5. For S4's, continue filling through the filler neck until the bleeder overflows, and replace the bleeder cap. Don't overtighten it or you'll ruin the plastic plug.
6. Continue filling though the filler neck until the water/coolant reaches the top.
7. Start the engine and let it idle. The water level will probably drop a bit when the engine starts as the pump pushes the water into air pockets. Keep topping up the system as necessary.
8. Keep the engine running until the thermostat opens. You can tell when this happens as there might be another drop in water level, and the top radiaor hose will start to warm up.
9. When no more air bubbles are appearing in the filler neck, replace the filler cap.
10. Fill up the overflow bottle to the correct level.
11. Go for a test drive, keeping an eye on the temp gauge. Make sure the engine reaches full operating temp but does not exceed it, and check the heater operates properly.
12. On your return, once the engine has cooled down, recheck the level at the filler cap (not the radiator cap on S4's) and the overflow bottle.

 

thanks guys! no more buzzer!!! i also found i had a small leak from a clamp not being on all the way.. but everything is good now!

 

I had that problem, but it ended up just being an air bubble in the system. Went away after awhile!!

 

Bringing this back from the dead kind of. A while back I removed the UIM to replace the PD. Lost a lot of coolant because of the stupid hose on top of the engine... So after that i just refilled it with some more coolant. I've had the buzzer problem since then though.

I'd already filled it up to the top with some coolant so I figure I'd just run it without the cap on like you say in that. But when I do that all the coolant does is rise. When it starts to overflow I just put the cap on and figured I'd do it later with a little less coolant in. Am I supposed to just let it overflow then put some in as it comes out? I'd see little tiny bubbles coming out, but nothing enough to lower the level of it really....

Though I suppose my sensor could also be going bad? I heard the buzzer go off one time before when I just had the car on (not running) to test a radio.

 

the sensing unit will go off if there's no fluid present, either its too low or bad connection. double check the thread itself for crack.

 

My buzzer problem is back too, Its not losing coolant, i fill it using the bleeder cap, top off with engine running, and every once in a while, the buzzer will still go off. I ended up grounding it, i just have to keep a closer watch on the coolant level

 

Tell me, gxl90rx7, does it buzz when you turn right?

 

I have V-8 swap that I did . How do you make that thing stop. AAAgggghhhhh!!!!!!!
I don't want to get too crazy with dismantleing the dash, What wire do I ground out

 

*opens fsm pdf*