I believe I have blown water seals b/c my coolant system is constantly bubbling out of the overflow tank and then the damned add coolant buzzer will come on. I am also pretty sure that i can smell a gas smell in the coolant. I am just wondering where the buzzer is actually located. I tried just listening to it and trying to find it but i cant. Thanks.

 

I want to wire in a kill switch to it, but i also want the warning lights to stay on. I dont want to just ground the sensor.

 

Why dont you just fix the problem?

 

busted water seals=rebuild=over a grand and i dont have that much money right now. this would be a temporary solution untill i can get the money for a new engine or a rebuild. Somebody has to know where this thing is!!

 

The buzzer is on the circuit board that forms the instrument cluster.

 

There's a reason why it's annoying.&nbsp You're just hurting the engine more by driving it around.&nbsp Park the car - do it a favor.


-Ted

 

Well, if the engine needs a rebuild and is already blown, it's not like it's going to get much deader or anything.

 

Am i really putting more stress on my car by driving it. Im trying to decide what to do w/ it (sell it, rebuild it, new engine, maybe a swap) What exactly will happen by me driving it around?

btw is it even a blown water seal? I dont have white smoke at all. sometimes a little blue at startup but thats it, but my coolant is always overflowing out of the resivour but my temp doesnt ever go up as long as i keep addin water to it.

 

At this point, you might just have a bad seal or one bad housing.&nbsp You're introducing coolant to the combustion chamber.&nbsp The last time I checked, this was a bad thing.&nbsp Coolant in the combustion could possible warp seals and seize internal engine parts.&nbsp Major ingestion of coolant could possible blow by the oil control o-rings and enter the oil system.&nbsp Coolant in the oil system will render the entire engine useless.&nbsp Please dude, you're already giving bad advice with the NA -> turbo conversion; this is just more bad advice on top of that.



-Ted

 

Wouldn't a quick way to check be to start the car with the coolant fill cap (I hesitate to call it the rad cap cuz it ain't on the rad ) off? If she spews, she's stewed, right?

 

My buzzer does not go off at all, and when I pulled my logicon (its still out) so is the gauge cluster. I was looking for the buzzer in hopes to fix it. However I do not see a buzzer on the curcit board for the dash... Is it attached with solder normally/ Or do I need to pull the back board and its sitting on the inside??

Thanks for the help
-Brian.

 

It might be that the sensor itself is grounded. Some dumbass grounded the one on my car before I bought it.

 

Yikes, was that directed at me? If so, you'll notice that I NEVER recommend that anyone pull off the NA turbo install.

While the car is running, disconnect the sensor. If the buzzer goes off, then the buzzer is working properly.

 

I plan on disconnecting the sensor, and testing it that way but I get no buzzer at 6800rpms like my friends 87 has.. So I figured from that is another way to set off the buzzer and test it... I will check the sensor this evening though.

Maybe theres another sensor to set off the buzzer for the rpm's that its not seeing.

I know the car was very hacked up when I got it... and its been alot of work but its getting there slowly...

Thanks for the help

 

The buzzer is used for redline and oil levels warning also, so it should not be disabled. If you want to temporarily disable the coolant level warning then disconnect the sensor and ground the harness side of the wire.

 

Ok, well im not trying to disable it at all. I just have not heard a buzzer since I bought the car and I would LIKE it to work. So I tried revving it to 7k and it went with no problems with NO buzzer... the questions I was asking was in hopes to figure out if my buzzer is busted and the next question would be where to buy one. I know Mazda put that stuff there for a reason, the previous owner may have not known that...

Sorry if I didn't make that clear. I have a big (for me ) project to bring this car back from the hacked job side... back to stock beauty

 

Actually that was mainly for the original poster, but I'm glad to hear you want to fix it properly.

 

Ahh ok, my mistake then.

 

Ok I finally got my car back togeather and Disconnected the collant sensor at the radiator and the Buzzer DID go off, however then I hooked it back up and took the car for a spin.

I brought the car up to 7200-7300 once and I got no buzzer? I think its supposed to go off at 6800 if I remember correctly...

Any idea why the buzzer is only operating with the add coolant?

 

Check the tach in the instrument cluster...Could be cold solder joints killing it's connection to the buzzer.

 

Did you try pressurizing the coolant system to see if the leak is present? It could possibly be a bad hose or something easy. I'd rule out all of the simple/cheap fixes before you settle on bad coolant seals.

 

Any 12volt buzzer from radio shack will work, you will just need to solder extension wires if you can't find one that fits Mazda's way wide mounting.