i want to remove this ****. we just have a visual in oregon, and i think i can pull it off.

is there any sites out there with write ups /pics to help me out?
i heard the cats will die if you remove the airpump which is supposed to be removed to with this mod. how long does it take for them to die around?

tia
brandon

 

I replaced my cats anyways because they were clogged. Pulling everything of wasn't hard, just got to block off the big holes left in the side of the motor. Make some cobers out of metal or buy some online. I took my egr off as well, so any open vaccum lines, you'll have to plug.

 

cool. do you still have your airpump in?

 

ripped it out too

 

i know how to take all the stuff off. in fact its off now and my car is in the driveway naked hehe.

but do you have a writeup, or some pics of how you blocked off the egr, acv vacuum lines? im going to take this stuff off now. hehe.

did you pass emissions by the way?

 

uptop

 

when the stuff is off, trace it on sheet metal and cut it out then drill hoes, youll need some washers to take up the lenght of the studs or buy shorter studs

 

Im also looking to do this. Let me know how it all goes. I havn't found a write-up with pics and stuff yet, but if you want to do one as you do it yourself I would like to put it on my web site for people.
As for the cats..I just got a race pipe to swap out, but If you want it for a street car, You prob. will attract a little attention.

 

im getting the k2rd kit for that. do you have your egr removed as well?

i need help more in detail i dont want to mess up my rex. its 120k old turbo

 

live4boost. i will fully document it with pics and i'll let you use it on your site if you like.

i need to order the k2rd kit now. and fix my digi cable, all send ya the pics later.

there actually is a couple of sites that had it. but they're both out of comission right now

i need some more info on the egr part, and what to do with left over vacuum lines.

thanks so far snoopster

brando

 

rx7turbo.com has the wright up

racing beat has the block-off plate
------------
grocery list
ACV block off plate
Split Air Pipe block off plate
Straight Pipe (suggested)
Gaskets for pipe
New silicone hose while you are at it
16 ft of 4mm, 10 ft of 6mm, and 4 ft of 8mm
High temp gasket sealant
6 4mm rubber, or silicone if you can find, caps
3 1/2" washer or spacer that fits over ACV bolt. (see below)
Procedure:

This assumes you do not have your Air Pump in.

Disconnect all hoses from ACV and make sure to remember where they go!

Unscrew the 3 nuts that hold onto the ACV, we're not talkin about Larry, Curly, and Moe. One of the nuts will be hard to get off if you have ABS.

You should be able to pull off the ACV with a lot of coaxing if you have ABS but you CAN do it. Pry out the check valve that looks like a wheel with a small screwdriver.

Unscrew the two nuts holding onto the Split Air Pipe, the thing next to the ACV that goes to the cat.

Use some kind of abrasive, Sears rotary tool works well, to clean off the old gasket from the manifold on both the ACV and the SAP.

Now I would recommend changing all of the vacuum lines with your new silicone versions. This will reduce the chance of having a cracked vacuum hose later on.

Here is EXACTLY how I have my vacuum hoses connected and my car runs fine. There will be 3 metal vacuum lines going between the ACV and then connected to a set of 4 metal vacuum lines near the clutch housing. You can take out the set of 3 metal vacuum lines as one assembly. You will now have the 4 vacuum lines sticking up by the clutch. When looking at them from the front of the car here is how I have them hooked up

1st from left is spliced in with 3rd from left and then they both go to any of the nipples on the VDI.

2nd from left goes to fuel pressure regulator on the secondary fuel rail.

4th from left goes to any nipple on the VDI.

Boost pressure sensor in hooked into nipple on the lower intake manifold near the firewall.

Blow Off Valve is hooked into nipple on VDI below the BAC.

You will now have all 4 nipples on the VDI hooked up, 1 small from under VDI, one big from vacuum hose spider under VDI, and the two above.

Now with everything plumbed you can put some sealant on the ACV and SAP plate. Just make sure you have it positioned right.

Here is where the spacer comes in. I made mine out of some plastic pieces I had in my basement. I cut 6 pieces and drilled holes into each of them. This is because on my 1990 the bolts were not threaded all of the way. You may be able to buy the correct sized die to thread it further but I didn't feel like it. I then placed the spacers over the bolts and put the nuts back on.

Click on the picture to see end result.

Put the SAP nuts back on and LET DRY! You don't want any leaks, DO YOU?

Start up your car and see how it runs. You may have to set the idle again.

 

well, erics site has been down forever. racing beat is overpriced. im going with k2rd's very nice

 

i just purchased the k2rd plates. i'll see how it goes. im not understanding the vacuum line part. no pics

i wish he would put his site back up

 

i don't have to worry about the damn emissions here in idaho and if they did decside to, ill store the car in montana at my parents, where they've actual got seven digit telephone numbers. as far as the hose mine are different from the post before, but i might change them around to see if it makes a difference, not that it ain't running great now. good luck.

 

yo snoopster. can you make a drawing or something for the vacuum lines. thats my only confusion right now. acv and airpump are off right now.

 

get rid of the three branch one. all i did with the four branch one is loop two together and two together.

 

just hook the one by the bac to the pressure sensor and the bov

 

i looked at 87gtr's site. i remembered he had some pics of his acv plate. anyways i get waht your saying about the bac to the bov. but maybe tony (87gtr) will help me out on this one hehe.

i'll keep digging
brandon:o