Yesterday I blocked off my ACV with a plate i made from an old computer case. Also I removed the smog pump and plugged both ends of EGR (put a screw in the vacume line going into the EGR and also put a short line on the EGR with a screw plugged into it.) Now when the engine is cold it wont stay idleing without assistance. I turned the idle up to 1400 (minimum it would stay at) and then it was just too much when it warmed up..

Don't know if all this is normal..

 

Not normal. Just what did you use to crank the idle to 1400 rpm??? Just curious.

 

combination between the idle (on top of dynamic chamber) and that little screw that sets the secondary throttlebody plates. I think this is correct..

 

though i did put wire ties on the aux ports so they are always open.

 

when sitting still if I rev it over 4k it sends error #7 (pressure sensor) only for a second then it don't call it again untill I rev it again. This error does not happen when driving (even over 4k)

 

do I need to plug the lines that goto my (empty) cat? would that become a vacume leak?

 

I was just looking over your shoulder. If you were using the tps screw I was ready to pounce. Sounds like a bag of worms you have there. It sounds a bit like the bac is not putting out, but then again just why did the idle go south just because the acv was removed? There are times I wonder if the aav part of the acv could leak air into the intake and be in essence a *vacuum* leak. Six Rotors might know. It would also seem the thermowax, fast idle cam are not functioning. The thermowax shoudl give you a decent idle when the car is cold. I'd check that out along with the bac. This http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html will give you a site that can tell you how to check the bac. Don't worry about the TURBO title. The bac operates the same. Bottom of the page for that item. Actually yours sounds like a fun problem. Theres a free download of the 87 manual at http://iluvmyrx7.com and the fuel section has details on setting the idle. Is your timing spot on? That would be looked at with the idle under 1000 rpm. The timing advance seems to start about 1000rpm. Not saying your timing is the problem, but could be an item to take a look at with the idle under 1000rpm.

 

Did you make a gasket with your acv blockoff plate. Could have some leakage b/t the holes in the intake part that you block off. Use rtv. You probably did. Just a thought.

 

Yes I made a gasket. My Thermowax valve/assem has been removed.. Also I do know not to touch the TPS it's adjusted to 1.00265V My meter is very nice. I guess I should get some liquid gasket and just put a very thin layer to assure a seal. Should i block off the lines going to my empty cat?

 

I was also going to block off the BAC but did not find a lot of info on it.. there are a lot of lines there that i would not know what to do with.

 

Sorry for taking so long went for a ride to get engine up to running temp.. My timing is dead on (both leading and trailing) that was checked with initial set jumper on and idle @ 750.. There may be a little leak behind my block-off plate (I'm now guessing) so my next thought is to remove the plate and put some liquid gasket on it. Maybe it'll help.

 

Sorry. I *think* from reading this forum, that the removal of the thermowax has the result of a crummy idle when the engine is cold. If you have done the removal of the thermowax some time ago and did not have you present problem until after removal of the acv and airpump, to me its gotta be related to the gasket you made for the acv. Nothing else is mentioned that might have caused it. Useless reply, but gets you bumped to the top again.

 

Thank You much.! You and the entire club are the greatest help to own a rx or any rotary for that matter!

Humor: If any mechanic had ever told me I had a problem with my ThermoWax Valve I would have replied : Yea that must mean my kanivlin pin and FuFu Valve is bad also. It just sounds like one of them expencive bogus repair jobs that some nice blond would have done and believe that was the problem

 

That’s too thin; IMO 3mm is a minimum. My guess is that it probably isn’t quite flat and you have a vac leak is causing the idle probs. Make a decent plate and use sealant or a factory gasket.

 

Speaking of the FuFu valve, I've got three spare ones that I'll let you have for $49.99 ea. They really help the mid range torque and virtualy eliminate the 3800 rpm hesitation. Now in a more serious vein...... Maybe you can cut another plate out of that old computer and add it to your present one to make it more ridgid??? You might leave that flat looking checkvalve in place to aid in sealing that particular hole that leads to the exaust ports.