Valkyrie

I now know the hell of removing control arm bushings.

I got the front one out in about 10 minutes with a hammer and a socket...

But JESUS the rear one is HORRIBLE.

I managed to find the metal collar, and tried to pry it... but it would jus budge a bit and go back. And then the collar itself started to bend...

I've also tried to burn with a propane torch... which clearly wasn't hot enough, and now I just have tar everywhere.

OTOH, cutting through the rubber isn't so hard, but even when you do, it's STUCK to the collar to the point that there's no way you could pull it off of it.

Guess I need to go buy some cut-off discs for either my Dremel or my angle grinder...

I also cut myself bad enough that I'm gonna need to leave a bandaid on my finger for two weeks... with a saw (trying to cut through the rubber...).

magus2222

iTrader: (22)

HAHAHAHA, i just did those a little while ago. took me an hour each of torching, and using the table vice to get them off. im a big guy, done sports for a long time, so i would say im pretty strong, i needed a nap after i finished it, wore me out.
made my shoulders hurt.
so, GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

peace

p.s. the rubber bushings that you speak of, have grooves cut in them to prevent them from EVER coming off.

Valkyrie

I know... but they didn't need to make the rubber stick to the metal sleeve so damn much.

pre-post edit: I got it off... it wasn't quite as bad once I cut through the sleeve. After that I basically had to twist it off.

YaNi

iTrader: (2)

I used a die grinder to cut the metal sleeve into thirds and pried it off.

Burning them out had resulted in complete and utter failure.

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

If you have another vehicle or can get a ride most automotive machine shops will do it for 20 bucks. At least around here.

TitaniumTT

Yawn... I put a bearing seperator between the bushing and the collar - something just like this.... which can be had for $9


then popped it in the press, drank my coffee, probably smoked a cig, and may have even fondeled myself with one hand while the other just cranked away on the press. Took maybe five minutes each side.

If you don't have a press or access to one you can use that seperator with a 2 jaw puller as well

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

He said he was using a socket and hammer.

TitaniumTT

Yes I know, I'm sharing the knowledge that there is a much easier way than the old tried and true hacksaw/dremel/die grinder or torch. I think most of us have 2 jaw pullers and if not they are somewhat cheap and can even be rented. I believe the bearing seperator can be rented as well or just bought through some discount tool place.

Valkyrie

I didn't know there was a bearing seperator like that... OTOH, I would have though something like that would work since there's so much rubber blocking any place you could actually pry.

The Energy Suspension settings said to cut away the rubber on the collar and then to pry it off. Of course, this doesn't work quite as well as they say...

Next time I'm going to make two cuts... or just get that tool. ($9 sounds like a Harbor Freight price though... the nearest one is a 45-minute drive)

specialop

I was wondering if anyone had a picture or diagram(detailed) of the energy suspension bushings installed. The full kit would be nice, but I really just need the sway bar endlinks. The directions are vague in this area. Thanks.

Valkyrie

The directions are fairly simple... at least as far as the control arms go.

I loved how the ES bushings could be installed by hand... that was a welcome change. I had them ready to go on the car in about 5 minutes. (for one arm)

specialop

I agree the fronts are a breeze. Do you have the whole kit?

TitaniumTT

It is HF - I think I mentioned that.
You're not supposed to do any prying with that tool. Once it is secured underneath the bushing you place the assembly in a shop press like

You would lay the bearing seperator on those two black pieces ontop of the base with the suspension arm hanging down. If you look at the back of the arm you can see the arms pivot point. Press against that with a piece of solid steel of less diameter than the pivot. When you are done the suspension arm will be on the floor and the bushing left ontop of the seperator. Make sense? I have difficulty explaining visual things sometimes.

SaabGuy

This is why I bought a small but effective Hydrolic 6 ton press from Northern Tool when it was on sale for $35:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...70_47690_47690

Im not sure if it will do controll arms but it did press out my upper diff mounts no problem. I'll be doing control arm and other bushings sometime within the next year.

Valkyrie

I just finished the front right control arm...

This time I managed to do it in under 2 hours...lol

I used an angle grinder to scrape the rubber off so I could see the metal collar, then dremeled through it, cut through the rubber under it, and managed to pry/twist it off...

Now I just need to do the rear... but that can wait.

Can you do the rears just by unbolting it, lowering the arm a bit, and whacking the bushing out? Or do you have lower the whole freaking rear? (so that you can take them off)

TitaniumTT

The entire subframe needs to be dropped to get the rear swingarm bushings.