iceblue

If it is not the AFM and the TB set fast idle cam set screw is right then it is electrical!

johnnyg

Set to what all the time??

The dashpot has nothing to do with it! All that does is cushion the closing of the throttle to keep the car from bucking.

The idle set screw does nothing to your throttle plates at all. The fast idle cam adjust screw does indeed hold the throttle plates open at a certain angle, but that will disengage once the thermo wax pellet is fully extended. Afterwards, the proper setting for the throttle plates is CLOSED.

You might want to study the control system a bit more. When the TB goes off the fast idle cam, the throttle plates close and the TPS get "pushed in" more. This tells the ECU that the throttle is at idle, which kicks in the BAC valve.

It *also* does that.

There is if your TB is to factory spec!

iceblue

johnnyg - you might want to actual take one apart bro. And then go remove your emissions and idle controls tune your car then come back and tell that crap. I am not going to repeat myself anymore in this thread its useless.

johnnyg

Has it occured to you that maybe your 87 TII is different from the '91 NA Coupe that's the subject of this thread? I have the same car as the thread starter, and I have indeed taken a TB apart (two, actually) and re-spec'd them. My emissions and idle control are still intact, so I know how all that 'stuff' works.

Tell me again how the dashpot has something to do with the throttle plates closing. I really liked that one.

iceblue

TII idle adjustment
1. Set screw on backside of TB
2. BACV
If no BACV this is quite obvious how to adjust idle

NA idle adjustment, and adjustments
1. The screw on the top of the TB should be used to dictate the airflow through the TB to control idle "must jumper 2pin green clip by the L coil pack"
2. The Fast idle cam, Fast idle adjustment screw, Cam adjustment screw. These should be aligned by marks and will effect the idle. The Fast idle adjusting screw will effect the main TB plate linkage clearance and will raise and lower the idle but should be used to keep everything aligned properly.

All adjustments should be made when the wax pallet has reached proper temps of 77F and the dashpot is seated.


If his issue is in the TB then his cam is out of place and the fast idle adjustment screw with the idle speed screw on the top closed causing him to cut off airflow after the wax pallet has reached 77F or warmed up conditions possibly taking anywhere from 5 to 15min to fully warm up.

If that is not his issue then it resides in the AFM or another fuel source or electrical control of such.

chinoxl75

To get the car started on my 91 RX-7 non-turbo.. I have to keep cranking it and then about maybe 4,5 turns the car will start up slowly and almost cut off. But then it will pick up. The car then will shut off. The car doesn't have a rough idle it just seems like it isn't getting full or the right amount of air/fuel mixture. Sounds like anything similar happed to someone else?

chinoxl75

Just say my fuel lines where reversed the car wouldn't be able to start would it. I was wondering because my car does start.

johnnyg

I don't have first hand experience, but I understand the car will start, run, then quit. If you've had your fuel lines disconnected recently, that's the first thing to check. The line from the fuel filter should go to the connector closest to the front of the car.

nization

Your fuel lines are NOT reversed if you're able to run for 10 minutes, then die... if they were reversed, than you might start once or twice, but I don't think it would even start after a few tries in that situation.

chinoxl75

today i put a new O2 sensor on and the car started right up with no problem, but then cut off in about 5 min. Checked my spark plugs and they where shot because of continue tring to start it before i chanced the O2 sensor. Wondered why my car started right up with a new O2 sensor right away but then turned off again. I am going to change the plugs and see what happens. If that doesn't work i will change the MAF.

nization

Traditionally, I've been told over and over that if the car is dying for any reason it's a vacuum leak. I'm currently reading up on the entire fuel and intake systems as well as the electronic control systems. Have a few things I can test for free without spending anymore money, aside form a fuel pressure guage, which I've been meaning to get one anyway.... I might even try to swap my known good S4 intake setup back onto this engine and see if that eliminates the issue....

One thing I have not been able to get much, or any information on is the VDI (finally found what it's called today) This is the part on an S5 UIM, you'll find an actuator much like the ones controling the 5th and 6th ports. Mines not connected to anything as I've removed all the vacuum lines and rats nest, etc. I have established that it need pressure, not vaccum, as well, and I cannot find a pressure source for it. I imagine it might have been related to the no longer existant air pump, perhaps? At any rate, I've also disconnected the actuator and opened/closed the valve manually and have been able to notice NO difference in the engine's performance at all.

Once again, I'll keep you posted if I find anything that helps me out, as I still think it might be related to your issue, chinoxl75.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

you might have a big vacuum leak and yoru car dies whent he tbody's choke turns off

nization

Update after taking a little break from this issue....

Today I took some brake parts cleaner and started the engine, let it run for it's time it will before it dies while I sprayed down all the areas with brake parts cleaner to see if the engine would speed up at all, hence, identifying vacuum leaks. Guess what? I found none! Which is good, I suppose....but I'm still at a loss as to why in blazes my car won't run!

Still not positive what the VDI valve on the S5 intake does for functionality. But I still don't have it conected.

Tried to change the O2 Sensor afterwards, but was unable to get it loose today. I drenched it down good with penitration spray, so hopefully it'll be ready to come out tomorrow....

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Mine did that right after I replaced the dryer and inboard evaporator on my A/C, and after 3 minutes of cursing and checking fuses, I found out that I'd knocked the air intake off.

miguel818k

My rx7 turns off when cold but after i drive it around and it gets warm it stays on what could that be.
Rx7 1987 fc non turbo