So my 91 keeps flooding out. Ill pull the egi turn it over a few times put it back in then it'll rev it's self up to about 3grand before bogging out and dying and won't start until it's de-flooded again. Things I notice are the fuel pump is constantly humming with the key in the on position, and it always revs itself up before dropping down and stalling.
Any ideas? Would a pump cut off switch help?

 

You'll at least won't have to go in the engine bay every god damn time to remove the EGI fuse,

Even with the switch at off you have enough fuel in the line to run for a minute .

Have you remove your dip stick and smelled it ?
It'll probably smell like fuel ...hopefully you didn't contaminate your oil...

 

Just curious.
Have you ever looked at the TEST connector on the Passenger side(for the Fuel pump)?.If that thing is shorted or jumped it will run the fuel pump constant.
The pump should only run in Start position when cranking,then when the AFM gets the signal that the engine is getting fuel it kicks the relay to allow the fuel pump to run as the engine ignition goes now to the RUN position.
If you hear the pump in RUN position with the engine off then there is something wrong.

NO a Fuel cut off won't work because as you said it is Running..IF you cut it off the car would not get fuel and you would have to Repeatedly hit that switchOff/On...like a damn jack hammer to keep the car going.

 

Ill check that out in the morning, but I can put the key in the On/run position and hear the fuel pump in the back humming constantly, and under the hood I can hear the fuel system running, until I pull the egi. Everything under the hood stops but the fuel pump is still humming.

 

I wonder if someone has been "working" on the fuel system.
Not only should the pump not run till engine start but S5s also have a voltage regulator in the circuit (located behind the passenger headlight) that drops pump voltage at low load (less noise and less wear) and ramps it up as necessary.

You're trying to start a cold engine, so the ECU is going through the AWS protocol (and the thermowax is in play) which will rev the engine up...that's actually normal.

I'd check fuel pressure and unless you have recently had them serviced, the injectors.

 

Pulled The relay for it next to steering column. Pump only comes on when starting. So I'm taking it that the relay is bad?

 

On an S5 the ECU sends a ground signal to the relay to turn the fuel pump but it is to occur w/the engine running and not just w/key to on. It's possible that your fuel check connector is jumpered or there is an issue w/the ECU.

 

I just checked it and yeah.. I can even smell the gas coming from the full tube..

 

Is this the test connector? Cause it's the only two prong connector I could find. It was also plugged into my port actuator? Is that what's jumping it?

 

If the Brown wire at the circuit opening relay has a ground on it w/key to on then either the fuel check connector is jumpered or the ECU is causing the ground. Just by checking the voltage on this wire will tell you something.

 

update

Cleaned spark plugs made sure cables were all in order.
Adjusted the CAS fires right up every time now. Still won't Idle. I have to keep giving it throttle to stay running.
Also.
I tested voltage and resistance on everything and it was all good until I got to the circuit opening relay next to the steering column.

Terminal FC(To fuel pump Switch) with key on ran 0v when it should be getting 12 but, was fine on the resistance part, B post(Ignition Switch on) to FP post(Fuel Pump) was reading 0L like it should. Any idea what's up?

 

Was it the Brown wire which had 0 volts (better to use the wire colors then the abbreviations used in the FSM as the wiring diagram itself does not use these terms).

 

No. It's a black wire with a pink or red stripe

That's to the AFM right?

 

UPDATE

Reset the timing, took out the entire afm, car runs on its own

Idles at 3500 though

 

You tested the wire that is in the top row far left position of the circuit opening relay? If so then this wire should have voltage w/key to start but not w/key to on. And the car running w/the AFM removed just shows that the Brown wire at the relay is likely grounded and it would be nice if you tested that wire as previously noted. And running the engine w/o the AFM is not really advisable as it will run the engine extremely rich and the manifold will want to glow like fire.

 

The wire I tested was bottom row far right. It was a Black Wire with a red stripe the gsm said it should have 12v at on and 0v at start . The diagram I found said it was to the AFM. The car wouldn't stay running as long as the afm was on. As soon as I took it off the car it ran without a problem besides being rich

 

The link takes you to an image of the S5 relay in post #10. In the pic the wire at the bottom right is Brown. Also, the wire in this position runs to the ECU on an S5 ( but to the AFM on an S4). So, it is correct that the wire would have 12 volts w/key to on and then close to 0 w/the car started. Now you claim you have an S5 thus that wire runs to the fuel check connector as well as the ECU. The fuel check connector is part of the emission harness thus if you follow back the wiring from the boost/pressure sensor then eventually next to the space between the engine and the passenger fender you will find a Yellow plug encased in a Black rubber boot w/only two wires in it. One is Black and the other wire should be Brown (the wire that runs to the bottom right position of the circuit opening relay.



https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...start-1073714/

 

Jumped the relay itself nothing just cranking. Jumped the test connector in the bay started, jumped up to 2grand then died.

 

I'm not sure what's the issue with it. I got the fuel pump to only run in the start position and when the engine is on, the test connector in the engine bay was jumped by another plug. When I tested the relay under the dash for resistance everything was 100% okay. On the plug that connects to the relay, the black wire with a red stripe was getting 0v in the on position FSM states it should have 12v in the on and 0v in the start. I deflooded it, reset the timing, unhooked the AFM and it started up immediately, Idled on its own and raised up to 3500rpm and wouldn't come down. Cut it off plugged the AFM back in, it started went up to 2000rpm and then dropped straight down and died.

Found out the diagram I found was for a 1988. So is the ECU or AFM bad? I checked for codes and everything came up fine. So why would it only run on its own with the AFM Removed.

 

Did you check the fuel check connector to see if it is jumpered or not and if not you shoud.

 

It was Jumped initially which was causing the fuel pump to be running constantly.

 

If the AFM is connected and the fuel check connector not jumpered and the engine dies after starting that could point to a vacuum leak.

 

upon looking for a leak a found my BAC is only held on by one bolt. The other part is broke off so it won't seal. I'm guessing that's enough to cause it.