91 FC not detecting ECU anymore :(
okay just did it! there was 2 white wires right next to eachother under the EGI fuse location so i slid it up in there on the white wires and im getting a steady 12 volts with no key
That's the very same wire as the two White wires in the 4 wire relay plug. Pull the EGI fuse which should kill voltage to these White wires. If there is no voltage then you know you measured the correct wire(s).
okay yup pulled the fuse and i got 0 volts and i left the red lead where it was and plugged the fuse back in and it jumped to 12 bolts so yeah i measured the correct ones
Then it appears you are not measuring the voltage at the relay properly because the White wire(s) measured at the fuse box is the same wires at the relay. Again, measure the White wires in the 4 wire plug w/the plug removed and the Red lead placed inside the top of the plug as opposed to the bottom of the plug (and obviously no key). And nighty night!
Then it appears you are not measuring the voltage at the relay properly because the White wire(s) measured at the fuse box is the same wires at the relay. Again, measure the White wires in the 4 wire plug w/the plug removed and the Red lead placed inside the top of the plug as opposed to the bottom of the plug (and obviously no key). And nighty night!
Last edited by Brian Deane; May 25, 2016 at 02:46 AM.
Pin 1B (B/W) w/the key to the on position. And there were close to 35 posts related to the main relay when it should have taken but a few. 35 posts!
Last edited by satch; May 25, 2016 at 08:56 AM.
One of the grounds is pin 3C. The wire is Black and it's found in the largest of the 3 ECU plugs. W/key to on it should read very close to 0 volts. Place the Black meter lead to one of the ECU's mounting bolts for a ground source (and of course the Red meter lead goes to pin 3C, but you knew that already_. If it reads like 12 volts then that is a problem.
heres a video of inside the ecu : Upload and Share Videos - Sendvid
might be hard to distinguish stuff but alot of the resistors and crap are corroded to ****
might be hard to distinguish stuff but alot of the resistors and crap are corroded to ****
One of the grounds is pin 3C. The wire is Black and it's found in the largest of the 3 ECU plugs. W/key to on it should read very close to 0 volts. Place the Black meter lead to one of the ECU's mounting bolts for a ground source (and of course the Red meter lead goes to pin 3C, but you knew that already_. If it reads like 12 volts then that is a problem.
One of the grounds is pin 3C. The wire is Black and it's found in the largest of the 3 ECU plugs. W/key to on it should read very close to 0 volts. Place the Black meter lead to one of the ECU's mounting bolts for a ground source (and of course the Red meter lead goes to pin 3C, but you knew that already_. If it reads like 12 volts then that is a problem.
Another thing to check at the ECU would require an LED light. Take one of its two wires and shove it into the back of pin 3W (largest ECU plug, Light Green wire). The other LED wire goes to pin 1B (B/W wire) and w/key to start the light should flicker which indicates the ECU is trying to fire the front primary injector.
And w/key to start the tach needle should bump a little which indicates the trailing coil is attempting to fire.
They are rather common just be patient. You could also speed up the process by looking through the classifieds for those selling what you need.
Another thing to check at the ECU would require an LED light. Take one of its two wires and shove it into the back of pin 3W (largest ECU plug, Light Green wire). The other LED wire goes to pin 1B (B/W wire) and w/key to start the light should flicker which indicates the ECU is trying to fire the front primary injector.
And w/key to start the tach needle should bump a little which indicates the trailing coil is attempting to fire.
Another thing to check at the ECU would require an LED light. Take one of its two wires and shove it into the back of pin 3W (largest ECU plug, Light Green wire). The other LED wire goes to pin 1B (B/W wire) and w/key to start the light should flicker which indicates the ECU is trying to fire the front primary injector.
And w/key to start the tach needle should bump a little which indicates the trailing coil is attempting to fire.
the water leak was from PO the car was in there front yard for sale WITH THE DAMN TOP DOWN in a quick storm...i sucked like a gallon and a half of water out with a shop vac lol then jacked one side of the car up and got the rest of the water out now the carpets just drying in the sun. my vert top doesnt close all the way though...it beeps and makes noise but doesnt move at all is there a way i can disconnect it from the arms for the motor and manually lock it in place because its like an inch away from being able to lock down with the hinge
the water leak was from PO the car was in there front yard for sale WITH THE DAMN TOP DOWN in a quick storm...i sucked like a gallon and a half of water out with a shop vac lol then jacked one side of the car up and got the rest of the water out now the carpets just drying in the sun. my vert top doesnt close all the way though...it beeps and makes noise but doesnt move at all is there a way i can disconnect it from the arms for the motor and manually lock it in place because its like an inch away from being able to lock down with the hinge
Not familiar w/the top as you'll have to ask someone who owns one for that answer.
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but hey you stuck around and that makes you an awesome guy! anything else you want me to check? what do you think the actual issue is with the car?



