2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

91 FC Convt. Cranks, no start

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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 09:41 PM
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From: Fort Leonard Wood, Mo
91 FC Convt. Cranks, no start

I've got a 91 convertible, non-turbo. Pulled it apart to get the fuel injectors cleaned, bought it from a guy that was running the engine with old gas. I got them cleaned and put them back in, reconnected all the vacuum lines, bolted everything back together and tried cranking it. It cranks, sounds kind of slow, but doesn't fully start. I'll get a slight rev here and there, but it won't fully start. It's got new plugs and wires, new fuel filter and pump, and a new air filter. I'm about at wits end. I feel like it might be the starter not spinning fast enough, I remember seeing the tachometer on my 88 jump as it cranked, but it doesn't on my 91. Can anyone tell me how to check if it is bad, or how to adjust the speed of it to get it to start. I was looking at the FSM, but it doesn't mention adjusting the speed of it. Thanks for the help guys!
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 09:55 PM
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Flooded? Use a fully charged battery, jumpered to a running car, or a charger with 200a start.

1) Hold the gas pedal to the floor, crank for 10 sec.
2) Rest the starter for 15 sec.
3) Repeat steps 1 & 2 (7-10 times)
4) Release gas pedal turn key to start, wait 10 seconds (prime fuel line)
5) Crank for 10-15 seconds
6) Did it start? If yes, hooray! If no, refer to step 1.
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 09:59 PM
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It's not flooded. I went through the unflooding procedure when It didn't start the third time
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 10:07 PM
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Are sure that you did not mix up your injector wires?

Was the car running before removing the injectors?
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 10:14 PM
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No tach bump usually means the trailing coil is not working.
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 08:49 AM
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The car was hard to start cold, non starting hot, heavy vibration at low rpm, before the injectors. I replaced a lot of maintenance items. I have a second set of coils, so should I put those on and see what it does? And I'm sure I got the injector wires put back on right, cause they wouldn't reach to any other but one, and I labeled them when I removed them
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ThatGuyOnTheGas
The car was hard to start cold, non starting hot, heavy vibration at low rpm, before the injectors. I replaced a lot of maintenance items. I have a second set of coils, so should I put those on and see what it does? And I'm sure I got the injector wires put back on right, cause they wouldn't reach to any other but one, and I labeled them when I removed them
Did you put ur fuel filter on backwards?
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 09:19 AM
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Compression test it. Just to be sure. Oh, you're sure it has compression. Do it anyway, just for me. Good luck.
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 09:45 AM
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The plugs might reach the injectors but that doesn't mean they are secured to the injectors properly. When starting the car only the primary injectors are used so your focus would be on them. At the ECU you can basically test whether the plugs are secured to the injectors by testing the primary pins at the ECU which should read 12 volts w/key to on. The pins are 3W (Light Green wire) and pin 3Y (Light Green/Black wire).

You could also pull the circuit opening relay, used to power the fuel pump, and then spray 1 to 2 seconds of starter fluid into the intake and see if the car starts briefly. This would help to deflood the engine if it was and it would also tell you if you are getting sufficient spark.
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 09:58 AM
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Fuel filter is not on backwards, the one the was on there actually was on backwards. I'd test it if I had a compression tester to check it, but I sadly do not. I'm sure it's getting fuel, I just wasn't sure that the starter was turning fast enough to actually start it or not. I think I'll change the coils to the other set that I know is good and try it out. If that doesn't work, I'll try roll starting it to cut the starter out of the equation and see if it starts
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ThatGuyOnTheGas
The car was hard to start cold, non starting hot, heavy vibration at low rpm, before the injectors.
Just to clarify, this is why I asked about compression. Especially the part quoted about heavy vibration. Yes, it could be fuel or spark, but you really want to borrow a tester and follow the procedure on testing a rotary engine (threads here in the forum somewhere). It will at least rule out lack of compression (fingers crossed for you), or you'll save time chasing other issues.
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 08:01 PM
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True. I just moved to north carolina though, so I really have no idea who to ask. Does autozone or napa or somewhere rent them out?
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ThatGuyOnTheGas
True. I just moved to north carolina though, so I really have no idea who to ask. Does autozone or napa or somewhere rent them out?
Just buy one. There like 20 bucks at oreilly
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 09:13 AM
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I figured that they'd cost more than that actually
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 09:51 AM
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So, I threw the other coils in and it acts like it's about to start, but then just cuts out and dies. I checked resistance on the TPS yesterday and it was way outta wack, 1138ohms at closed, 384 at WOT. Peaked at 13** at about a quarter throttle. Would this all be consistent?
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