91 FC Convt. Cranks, no start
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Fort Leonard Wood, Mo
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
91 FC Convt. Cranks, no start
I've got a 91 convertible, non-turbo. Pulled it apart to get the fuel injectors cleaned, bought it from a guy that was running the engine with old gas. I got them cleaned and put them back in, reconnected all the vacuum lines, bolted everything back together and tried cranking it. It cranks, sounds kind of slow, but doesn't fully start. I'll get a slight rev here and there, but it won't fully start. It's got new plugs and wires, new fuel filter and pump, and a new air filter. I'm about at wits end. I feel like it might be the starter not spinning fast enough, I remember seeing the tachometer on my 88 jump as it cranked, but it doesn't on my 91. Can anyone tell me how to check if it is bad, or how to adjust the speed of it to get it to start. I was looking at the FSM, but it doesn't mention adjusting the speed of it. Thanks for the help guys!
#2
Flooded? Use a fully charged battery, jumpered to a running car, or a charger with 200a start.
1) Hold the gas pedal to the floor, crank for 10 sec.
2) Rest the starter for 15 sec.
3) Repeat steps 1 & 2 (7-10 times)
4) Release gas pedal turn key to start, wait 10 seconds (prime fuel line)
5) Crank for 10-15 seconds
6) Did it start? If yes, hooray! If no, refer to step 1.
1) Hold the gas pedal to the floor, crank for 10 sec.
2) Rest the starter for 15 sec.
3) Repeat steps 1 & 2 (7-10 times)
4) Release gas pedal turn key to start, wait 10 seconds (prime fuel line)
5) Crank for 10-15 seconds
6) Did it start? If yes, hooray! If no, refer to step 1.
#6
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Fort Leonard Wood, Mo
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The car was hard to start cold, non starting hot, heavy vibration at low rpm, before the injectors. I replaced a lot of maintenance items. I have a second set of coils, so should I put those on and see what it does? And I'm sure I got the injector wires put back on right, cause they wouldn't reach to any other but one, and I labeled them when I removed them
#7
Penis Healthy
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/05_year_icon.png)
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: █▬█ █▄█ █▬█ █▄██▬█ █▄█ █▬█ █▄█
Posts: 2,596
Received 795 Likes
on
452 Posts
The car was hard to start cold, non starting hot, heavy vibration at low rpm, before the injectors. I replaced a lot of maintenance items. I have a second set of coils, so should I put those on and see what it does? And I'm sure I got the injector wires put back on right, cause they wouldn't reach to any other but one, and I labeled them when I removed them
Trending Topics
#9
The plugs might reach the injectors but that doesn't mean they are secured to the injectors properly. When starting the car only the primary injectors are used so your focus would be on them. At the ECU you can basically test whether the plugs are secured to the injectors by testing the primary pins at the ECU which should read 12 volts w/key to on. The pins are 3W (Light Green wire) and pin 3Y (Light Green/Black wire).
You could also pull the circuit opening relay, used to power the fuel pump, and then spray 1 to 2 seconds of starter fluid into the intake and see if the car starts briefly. This would help to deflood the engine if it was and it would also tell you if you are getting sufficient spark.
You could also pull the circuit opening relay, used to power the fuel pump, and then spray 1 to 2 seconds of starter fluid into the intake and see if the car starts briefly. This would help to deflood the engine if it was and it would also tell you if you are getting sufficient spark.
#10
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Fort Leonard Wood, Mo
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fuel filter is not on backwards, the one the was on there actually was on backwards. I'd test it if I had a compression tester to check it, but I sadly do not. I'm sure it's getting fuel, I just wasn't sure that the starter was turning fast enough to actually start it or not. I think I'll change the coils to the other set that I know is good and try it out. If that doesn't work, I'll try roll starting it to cut the starter out of the equation and see if it starts
#11
Just to clarify, this is why I asked about compression. Especially the part quoted about heavy vibration. Yes, it could be fuel or spark, but you really want to borrow a tester and follow the procedure on testing a rotary engine (threads here in the forum somewhere). It will at least rule out lack of compression (fingers crossed for you), or you'll save time chasing other issues.
#15
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Fort Leonard Wood, Mo
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So, I threw the other coils in and it acts like it's about to start, but then just cuts out and dies. I checked resistance on the TPS yesterday and it was way outta wack, 1138ohms at closed, 384 at WOT. Peaked at 13** at about a quarter throttle. Would this all be consistent?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post