9000 redline
#1
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9000 redline
What can I do to my 91 n/a to redline at 9k and still have power up until then???
I dont have anything done to it..
How can I get atleast 200hp??
What is the TB mod I keep on seeing??
How much does it add and how do you do it???
Thx
I dont have anything done to it..
How can I get atleast 200hp??
What is the TB mod I keep on seeing??
How much does it add and how do you do it???
Thx
#2
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for the 9000 redline get the new renisis engine, i cant wait to test drive the rx8
the only way to raise redline is with a street port i believe. a big street port! same for 200hp!
the t/b mod is when you take off a set of flapper doors in the t/b itself. there are 2 sets. it lets air flow better. i dont know how much it adds but people say they feel the difference. you can find a good write up on it at RETed's site. he has a link on his sig.
the only way to raise redline is with a street port i believe. a big street port! same for 200hp!
the t/b mod is when you take off a set of flapper doors in the t/b itself. there are 2 sets. it lets air flow better. i dont know how much it adds but people say they feel the difference. you can find a good write up on it at RETed's site. he has a link on his sig.
#3
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Re: 9000 redline
Originally posted by Rx7-15
What can I do to my 91 n/a to redline at 9k and still have power up until then???
What can I do to my 91 n/a to redline at 9k and still have power up until then???
I dont have anything done to it..
How can I get atleast 200hp??
How can I get atleast 200hp??
What is the TB mod I keep on seeing??
How much does it add and how do you do it???
-Ted
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There is much less air flow going through the N/A throttle body.
A stationary obstruction will generate more turbulance the more air is going past it.
Apparently it does degrade drivability a bit, especially when cold, and while I'm sure it would help out an N/A a tiny bit in power, it may not justify the drivability issues.
I am debating on whether to do it or not. I have a street ported N/A with a ton of stuff... the throtttle is touchy enough as it is, and It gets cold here. I am putting out more power than a stock turbo, so maybe it's worth it?
More or less-
As for the 9000 rpm redline/200 hp- you need to get rid of your emmisions equipment , get headers, full exhaust, no cats, intake, ported intake manifold, tear apart your engine, balance it, install race bearings, grind out a big street port, assemble the whole mess with fresh seals, get a fuel computer to manage all the changes, or a standalone ECU - and new plug wires while you're at it. While it's out you need to put in a performance clutch because the stock one won't hold.
Also- the ECU has a fuel cutoff at 8600 rpms!
Though mine doesn't seem to work. Thank god!
That's just the bare bones. You need to tie everything together so its all functional- Like traction, cooling, safety.
Be prepared to have your tranny puke on you in less than a few years.
Mines going already.
I suppose you could run the RPM's high with just all boltons, but it wouldn't make as much power that high, 200hp on the stock electronics and no porting I beleive to be practically impossible.
A stationary obstruction will generate more turbulance the more air is going past it.
Apparently it does degrade drivability a bit, especially when cold, and while I'm sure it would help out an N/A a tiny bit in power, it may not justify the drivability issues.
I am debating on whether to do it or not. I have a street ported N/A with a ton of stuff... the throtttle is touchy enough as it is, and It gets cold here. I am putting out more power than a stock turbo, so maybe it's worth it?
More or less-
As for the 9000 rpm redline/200 hp- you need to get rid of your emmisions equipment , get headers, full exhaust, no cats, intake, ported intake manifold, tear apart your engine, balance it, install race bearings, grind out a big street port, assemble the whole mess with fresh seals, get a fuel computer to manage all the changes, or a standalone ECU - and new plug wires while you're at it. While it's out you need to put in a performance clutch because the stock one won't hold.
Also- the ECU has a fuel cutoff at 8600 rpms!
Though mine doesn't seem to work. Thank god!
That's just the bare bones. You need to tie everything together so its all functional- Like traction, cooling, safety.
Be prepared to have your tranny puke on you in less than a few years.
Mines going already.
I suppose you could run the RPM's high with just all boltons, but it wouldn't make as much power that high, 200hp on the stock electronics and no porting I beleive to be practically impossible.
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