kborro01

iTrader: (3)

I'm trying to figure out if I want to keep the ABS system that is installed and what kind of PITA it would be to change it out and get rid of the system. That side of the engine is hard enough to get around in without the hassle of having those hard lines and giant ABS manifold. Has any one done this before that can offer advice. This is actually the only S5 I've ever seen with ABS so they can't be very common. I'm not worried about getting parts if I decide to replace the whole system. My 91 NA is being put out to pasture so I have a whole car to pull parts from.

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

The answer is easy, do what you want with it. Asking for advice on removing abs just creates a battle of opinions on why one is better than the other.

FC3S driver

iTrader: (1)

the problem with the abs units is the seals go out and you start leaking brake fluid, slowly, all down that side of the fire wall causing a mess. it's pretty easy to remove, putting brake lines back in there are the pita. some like to order the factory lines, I just made my own. there are numerous threads on how to do. if your system hasn't started leaking then I would still remove it before it does. I just picked up my 2nd s5 t2 with only 44k on it and the abs is leaking all over the place. it is on my list to fix soon.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

All S5 T2s have ABS...

it's pretty simple to just replace all the hardlines, although one of the ones you have to replace is the one going form the front to the back of the car... Mazda still sells them if you want new ones. If you want to still use the bigger/better S5 T2 brake booster + brake master cylinder you'll need to get a brake line T fitting because it only has 2 ports instead of the 3 ports the smaller non-abs brake master cylinder does.

Here is a picture of mine:


you can also buy the bypass kit that mazdatrix sells, but you'll still have all the lines going over to that side of the engine bay.

kborro01

iTrader: (3)

Would the calipers also need to be changed out? I planned on keeping the booster and manifold and just getting the T fitting.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

Calipers are exactly the same.

freq

iTrader: (6)

I did mine a few years ago. It only took maybe an hour to do. Brakes have been great ever since with no leaks. Here's the writeup..https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...l-pics-946987/

kborro01

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the link. Looks easy enough.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i'd ditch it before it lets go, it's very uncommon to see them not leaking and once they do... they will strip all the paint off the area just under the pump down to the frame rails.

there is still no viable replacement options, if you can even find a rebuilt pump expect to pay nearly $2k for one.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the ABS units are actually really easy to rebuild, the hard part is that you need to measure the O rings, and with the S4 unit there are more than 40!

all the O rings were easy to get at the oring place though, cheap too

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i think that is subjective to the pump. the one i have is still sitting where i left it with the deformed allen head bolt holding the assembly tight.

could just be due to age that the bolt is seized, it honestly didn't look that bad and had no rust on it but it's just not coming apart. we're talking in excess of 300ft/lbs holding an allen socket bolt from coming loose which is already beyond rediculous territory and usually where things start to break if you aren't careful, or requires cutting bolts off.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you do need to loosen it before you remove it from the car, but we did 4-5 pumps and didn't have a problem?

kborro01

iTrader: (3)

My plan is to leave the Master Cylinder and take the lines out of my 91 NA that has become a parts car and do the swap. Only thing I'm not sure about and have to check is that they are both 4 piston calipers. I know the ones on the turbo our, but never really checked the 91 NA

No_love_for_pistons

iTrader: (4)

If you have the money, just buy new parts. I was planning the same thing as you, but this is arguably the most important safety feature on your car. There are some areas you can get by with by swapping older parts, but I felt the braking system wasn't one of them. As has been said in this thread, new lines are still available or you can always make your own. I can't recall right now how much the total cost was for new lines and MC, but everyone's situation is different.

Check the thread in my sig if you'd like to see how I did it.

jjwalker

I'd rather have the knowledge of how to properly modulate the brakes in an emergency than rely on 20+ year old system that may or may not work in an emergency.

Also, by your logic, I'd remove the ABS unit due to the leaking issues. Since the RX7 has a single chamber brake fluid reservoir, no fluid means no stopping unless you go hulk smash with parking brake.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

Rob replaced all the lines from the master to the rear of his car, and Mazda has em, and all three were under $200....

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

What's with Mazda's supply of the line that runs from the proportioning valve to the rear distribution block? Myself and others have received lines that were clearly for a RHD vehicle.

I could have bent the line, but didn't want to since it was a brand new part. I returned it and my parts guy said he would do some digging, but I doubt he ever did. Now I almost wish I had just kept the line and bent it.

No_love_for_pistons

iTrader: (4)

The rear line was def for RHD, but I was still able to make it work. I used some zip ties to keep it all snug once install was completed. The parts guy at Mazda I spoke with said that it was the only part number they had in the system. Perhaps they shipped surplus parts to the U.S.?

See my thread in sig on ABS pump removal....warranted by a leaking pump.

jjwalker

I guess I misread what you said, because I thought you where advocating keeping the ABS system. My fault.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the RHD line is a different part number, if you look at the parts catalog it goes across the firewall, so it should be quite a lot longer than a LHD line.

the RHD is FC54-45-360 and the LHD non abs line is FB01-45-360C

the LHD ABS line is an FB55-45-360C, which has a run similar to the RHD one.